There’s no better way to celebrate the unofficial end of summer than gathering around the grill with great food and even better company.

This Labor Day, move beyond traditional burgers and hot dogs to create a menu that showcases the season’s best flavors, such as grilled blackened Santa Maria tri-tip and vibrant chicken and vegetable skewers paired with charred corn pasta salad and buttery grilled garlic potatoes. These recipes from  are designed to elevate your backyard barbecue while making the most of summer ingredients.

Blackened Santa Maria Tri-Tip

This Blackened Santa Maria Tri-Tip (pictured above) offers bold flavors and a meal that����ap meant to be shared. The recipe features a rich, spiced rub that creates the perfect caramelized crust. This tri-tip is juicy, tender, and perfect for serving family and friends.

Prep Time: 10 minutes (plus 20 minutes resting)
Cook Time: 25 to 30 minutes
Servings: 4

Ingredients

• 2-pound tri-tip
• Santa Maria Seasoning (see recipe below)
• Oil, for the griddle

Santa Maria Seasoning

• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons black pepper
• 2 teaspoons garlic powder
• 2 teaspoons paprika
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon dried rosemary, ground or chopped
• 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional)

Instructions

Season the Tri-Tip

• Add the salt, black pepper, garlic powder, paprika, onion powder, dried rosemary, and cayenne pepper in a small bowl and stir until fully combined.
• Sprinkle and rub the Santa Maria Seasoning all over the tri-tip.
• Let the meat sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.

Preheat the Griddle

• Set to low heat and preheat for 20 minutes.

Cook the Tri-Tip

• Drizzle oil onto the griddle.
• Place the tri-tip onto the griddle and cook for about 15 minutes.
• Sprinkle more seasoning on the other side.
• Flip once a nice dark crust has formed and cook for another 10 to 15 minutes.

Rest and Serve

• Remove from the griddle and let the tri-tip rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing.
• Slice the tri-tip against the grain into thin pieces and serve.

Lemon Herb Chicken Skewers

Bright and full of fresh summer flavor, these Lemon Herb Chicken Kabobs are a crowd-pleasing addition to any Labor Day gathering. Juicy grilled chicken marinated in a blend of lemon, garlic, Dijon mustard, and fresh herbs threaded onto skewers with zucchini, bell peppers, and red onion. Designed for sharing, these delicious grilled chicken kabobs are the perfect addition to your Labor Day menu.

Prep Time: 20 minutes (plus 1-4 hours marinating)
Cook Time: 12-15 minutes
Servings: 6

Ingredients

• 2 pounds of boneless, skinless chicken breasts
• 2 zucchinis
• 2 bell peppers (red, yellow or orange)
• 1 large red onion
• 8 ounces. cremini mushrooms

Lemon Herb Marinade

• 1/3 cup olive oil
• 2 lemons, juiced
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh oregano
• 1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• Basil leaves

Instructions

Marinate the Chicken

• In a large bowl, whisk together olive oil, lemon juice, lemon zest, garlic, Dijon mustard, honey, parsley, oregano, rosemary, salt, and pepper.
• Add the chicken and toss until evenly coated. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 4 hours.

Prepare the Grill

• Preheat your grill to medium-high heat (400-450 F).
• Lightly oil the grill grates to help prevent sticking.

Assemble the Skewers

• Thread the marinated chicken and vegetables onto skewers, alternating ingredients for an even mix of color and flavor. Leave a small amount of space between each piece to ensure even cooking.

Grill

• Place the skewers over direct heat.
• Grill for 12-15 minutes, turning every 3-4 minutes until the vegetables are lightly charred and the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 165.

Finish and Serve

• Transfer the skewers to a serving platter.
• Garnish with a squeeze of fresh lemon juice and basil leaves.

Parmesan Garlic Grilled Potatoes

No Labor Day barbecue is complete without a potato side, and these Parmesan Garlic Grilled Potatoes are sure to become a favorite. Tender baby potatoes are tossed with melted butter, garlic, and herbs before being wrapped in foil and grilled until perfectly soft and crispy.

Prep Time: 15 minutes
Cook Time: 30-35 minutes
Servings: 6-8

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• 2 pounds of baby Yukon gold potatoes (halved or quartered if large)
• 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
• 3 cloves garlic, minced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon paprika
• Fresh parsley for garnish

Instruction

Prepare the Potatoes

• Preheat your grill to medium heat (375-400 F).
• In a large bowl, combine the halved potatoes with the melted butter, olive oil, garlic, Parmesan cheese, parsley, thyme, salt, pepper, and paprika. Toss until the potatoes are evenly coated.

Assemble the Foil Packet

• Lay out two large sheets of heavy-duty aluminum foil. Transfer the potatoes to the center, then fold the foil tightly to seal the packet.

Grill

• Place the foil packet over indirect or medium heat. Close the lid and cook for 30-35 minutes, carefully flipping the packet halfway through cooking.
• To check for doneness, open the foil (watch for hot steam) and pierce a potato with a fork. It should be tender with lightly browned edges.

Finish and Serve

• Open the foil packet and pour potatoes onto a serving dish. Sprinkle with additional Parmesan cheese and enjoy. For crispier edges, leave the packet open on the grill for 3-5 additional minutes.

Santa Fe Grilled Corn Salad

Fresh, colorful, and bursting with Southwestern flavors, this Santa Fe Grilled Corn Salad is a perfect side dish for your Labor Day cookout. Sweet corn is grilled until lightly charred, then tossed with black beans, bell peppers, cherry tomatoes, avocado and a zesty lime-cilantro dressing.

Prep Time: 20 minutes
Cook time: 10-12 minutes
Servings: 6-8

Ingredients

For the salad

• 5 ears fresh sweet corn, husks removed
• 1 (15-ounce) can black beans, drained and rinsed
• 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved
• 2 red bell peppers, diced
• 1/2 red onion, finely diced
• 1 large avocado, diced
• 1/2 cup crumbled Cotija cheese (optional)
• 1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

For the lime Dressing

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• Juice of 2 limes
• 1 teaspoon lime zest
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/2 teaspoon chili powder
• 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1 clove garlic, minced
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Instructions

Grill the Corn

• Preheat your grill to medium-high heat (400-450F)
• Lightly brush the corn with olive oil and place directly onto the grill grates. Grill for 10-12 minutes, turning every few minutes until the kernels are tender and lightly charred.
• Remove from the grill and let cool slightly before slicing kernels from the cobs.

Prepare the Dressing

• In a small bowl, whisk together the olive oil, lime juice, lime zest, honey, cumin, chili powder, smoked paprika, garlic, salt, and pepper until well combined.

Assemble the Salad

• In a large serving bowl, combine the grilled corn, black beans, cherry tomatoes, bell peppers, red onion, cilantro and Cotija cheese.
• Pour the dressing over the salad and toss to gently combine.
• Fold in the diced avocado just before serving to keep it fresh and intact.

Serve

• Taste and adjust seasoning with additional salt, pepper or fresh lime juice as desired.
• Serve chilled or at room temperature.

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I’m clipping off curlicue tendrils and winding vines, apologizing because it is doing such a good job growing, but it����ap gotta leave some room for the tomatoes.

A fuzzy bumblebee happily does its job, shimmying into the plant����ap bright yellow flowers, about a foot from where I’m doing battle.

I clip off a long, spiky cucumber and bring it inside to meet its fate as a jar of refrigerator pickles to go with some ribs my husband is smoking.

When they’re done, I text my neighbor with a photo of the pickles and this story idea, and she replies, “Planting a garden definitely turns you into its b—!”

I’m going to see how long I can keep up in-house before I start handing out cucumbers like they’re candy to all my friends. Last year, I brought cucumbers everywhere I went for about a month. My friends would laugh when I showed up with a plastic bag with giant green batons poking out.

Spoiler alert: I made it four days before the cukes started piling up in my fridge. The rate at which cucumbers grow is honestly astonishing. I had plans to make tzatziki to go with our family-favorite chicken gyros this week, too, but family birthdays, events and concerts got in the way.

Still, if you’re dealing with an overload of cukes, perhaps these recipes will help you out of your pickle. If not, bring your veggies to the bar. I promise your friends will be happy to take some home.

Day one: One cucumber, Grilled Red Curry Salmon Bowls

I am always so excited to snip that first cucumber from the vine, so I went all out for dinner. I wanted something to incorporate a garden jalapeno and clippings from my Thai basil plant, too. These salmon bowls have a lot of components, but they’re all pretty easy to pull off. I plan to make them again this summer — they were so good!

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

For the salmon:

4 salmon filets

2 tablespoons jarred red curry paste

2 tablespoons coconut milk

Juice of half a lime

1 teaspoon fresh ginger, finely grated

For the cucumber salad:

1 tablespoon lime juice

½ tablespoon fish sauce

1½ tablespoons rice vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

Kosher salt, to taste

1 English cucumber, thinly sliced

¼ red onion, thinly sliced

1 jalapeno, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped

1 tablespoon chopped Thai basil (regular works too)

For the coconut rice:

1 cup coconut milk

1 cup water

1 cup basmati rice, rinsed and drained

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

For the yogurt sauce:

½ cup plain Greek yogurt

¼ cup coconut milk

¼ cup Thai (or regular) basil

Salt to taste

Lime wedges, sliced Thai basil and thinly sliced avocado for serving

DIRECTIONS

Mix curry, coconut milk, lime juice and ginger. Pour over the fish. Let it sit while you prepare the rest of the recipe.

Prepare coconut rice: Bring coconut milk, water and salt to a boil. Add rice, return to a boil, give the pot a quick stir and reduce the heat to low. Cover and simmer for 18-20 minutes. Leave cover on and let sit until the rest of the recipe is ready to plate.

Make cucumber salad: Whisk together lime juice, fish sauce, rice vinegar, sugar and salt in a medium bowl. Add cucumber, red onion, jalapeno, cilantro and Thai basil and toss to combine.

Make yogurt sauce: Combine yogurt, coconut milk, Thai basil and salt in a small bowl.

Preheat the grill to high. Oil the grill grates and grill the salmon, skin-side down, for 8-10 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 130 degrees F.

Assemble bowls: Place a quarter of the rice in each bowl, topping with cucumber salad and salmon. Garnish with yogurt sauce, lime wedges, sliced Thai basil and avocado. Serve immediately.

Day two: One cucumber, Refrigerator Pickles

My husband loves an all-day grilling project, and he was making ribs. Pickles are great for cutting the richness of the ribs, so I made my simple, go-to refrigerator pickle recipe. I like them better than almost any pickle I can buy, there’s no canning involved, and they’re ready to eat in 30 minutes.

INGREDIENTS

1 English cucumber, thinly sliced

1 cup vinegar

1 cup water

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon sugar

Several large sprigs of dill

Two garlic cloves, smashed

1 teaspoon peppercorns

DIRECTIONS

Bring water, vinegar, salt and sugar to a boil in a small pot.

Place dill, garlic and peppercorns in the bottom of a quart-sized mason jar. Add the cucumbers, then pour the hot brine into the jar. Let the pickles sit for 30 minutes, then eat immediately or refrigerate for up to a week.

Day three: Two cucumbers, Cucumber Agua Fresca

I picked three cucumbers, but I only needed two for this recipe. So that means I was already falling behind. The whole family loved this refreshing drink, especially on a very hot day. You can adjust the sugar up or down, depending on preference. I thought ½ cup was about perfect, but a lot of recipes I saw used more. Bonus points for me: I used garden mint, which is always abundant!

INGREDIENTS

2 English cucumbers, cut into large chunks

½ cup sugar

6 cups water

A large handful of mint leaves

Juice of two limes or more to taste

Mint and lime slices for garnish

DIRECTIONS

Place cucumbers, sugar, water and mint in a blender. Blend on high speed until smooth. Place a fine-mesh strainer over a bowl and pour the contents of the blender through the strainer. Use a wooden spoon or spatula to push the solids around and get as much liquid as possible into the bowl. Add lime juice to taste. Fill glasses with ice, pour the agua fresca over. Garnish with mint and lime slices.

Day four: One cucumber, Cucumber Salsa

OK, again, I picked two cucumbers, but only needed one. So if you’re keeping track, that means at this point there were two giant cucumbers in my refrigerator and more about to be big enough to pick. I give up. Want some cucumbers?

In better news, this was an idea that came straight out of my imagination, and it was great. Like pico de gallo, but crunchy and floral. You could add some diced tomatoes, too, but I kind of enjoyed the pure cucumber flavor.

INGREDIENTS

1 English cucumber, diced

1 jalapeno, thinly sliced

1 green onion, minced

1 teaspoon olive oil

¼ cup cilantro, chopped

1 tablespoon fresh squeezed lime juice

Tajin seasoning, to taste

DIRECTIONS

Combine everything but the Tajin in a small bowl. Stir, then add Tajin to taste. Serve on tacos, with tortilla chips or on burrito bowls, which is how we ate it.

As an adult, however, I understand how impressive this “try something new all the time” attitude is, and have been inspired to do the same for my household of two. So this week I’m sharing five New York Times Cooking recipes that have caught my eye and I want to make in the near future. They’re all easy and fast and look so, so delicious. Shall we?

1. Golden Tofu Noodle Bowl

Fresh and brimming with crisp textures, this Vietnamese-style rice noodle bowl is inspired by bun cha, the pork and vermicelli dish from Hanoi. This vegan version offers golden cubes of turmeric-coated tofu, served with crunchy raw vegetables and a zesty dipping sauce. The sauce is a vegan take on the Vietnamese staple nuoc cham sauce, relying upon lime, maple syrup, soy sauce and garlic to replicate the complex umami and signature sour-sweet-spicy notes of the original. Serve with the sauce on the side, so each person can dress the salad to their liking. Don’t skimp on the herbs, as they add an essential herbal aroma to the dish.

By Hetty Lui McKinnon

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

For the Salad

• Salt and black pepper
• 8 ounces rice vermicelli noodles
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1 (15-ounce) block extra-firm tofu, drained and cut into 1-inch cubes
• 2 medium carrots (about 5 ounces), coarsely grated
• 2 Persian cucumbers, cut diagonally into 1/4-inch slices
• 1/2 head (about 6 ounces) romaine lettuce, thinly sliced
• 1/3 cup roasted peanuts, roughly chopped
• 1 handful fresh basil leaves, for serving
• 1 handful fresh cilantro leaves, for serving

For the Vegan Nuoc Cham

• 1/2 cup lime juice (from about 4 limes)
• 5 tablespoons maple syrup or brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
• 1 garlic clove, finely grated
• 1 Thai red chile, finely chopped
• 1 teaspoon salt

Preparation:

1. Start the salad: Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the rice noodles and cook according to package instructions until tender, using a wooden chopstick or tongs to gently separate the noodles. Drain, refresh under cold water, and drain again.

2. Meanwhile, add the olive oil, turmeric, 1 teaspoon salt and a big pinch of black pepper to a medium bowl and stir to combine. Add the tofu and toss gently to coat.

3. Heat a medium skillet on medium high for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tofu cubes and cook until golden all over, about 2 minutes per side (depending upon the size of your pan, you may need to cook in batches).

4. Make the vegan nuoc cham: Place the lime juice, maple syrup, soy sauce, garlic, Thai chile and salt into a bowl and whisk to combine.

5. Drizzle 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the noodles, season with a pinch of salt and toss them to loosen them up. Divide the noodles among four wide bowls or rimmed dinner plates. Nestle bundles of the tofu, carrots, cucumbers and lettuce on top, along with small handfuls of peanuts, basil and cilantro. Serve with a bowl of the nuoc cham on the side.

Tip: The noodle bowls and the sauce can all be prepared 24 hours ahead of time and refrigerated until ready to serve. Since the sauce is not added until the time of eating, everything stays fresh and crisp.

2. Tangy Chicken, Tomato and Couscous Salad

This salad gathers all the great parts of a tagine dinner onto one bowl or plate: fluffy, spiced couscous, sweet, chewy prunes and savory bites of chicken. The “salad” part of the dish is a crown of marinated cherry tomatoes, which add juicy, cooling bites. Heating finely chopped rotisserie chicken in salted water creates an instant stock of sorts to plump the couscous, and extracts and distributes even more savory flavor throughout the dish when time is scarce.

By Ashley Lonsdale

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds cherry tomatoes, halved (4 cups)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 1/2 cup finely chopped fresh parsley
• 2 cups cooked chicken, finely chopped (about 8 ounces)
• 8 sun-dried tomato halves packed in olive oil, roughly chopped, plus 1/4 cup olive oil from the jar (or more extra-virgin olive oil as needed)
• 1/2 cup roughly chopped dried fruit, such as pitted prunes, raisins, apricots or dates
• 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/8 teaspoon ground ginger
• 2 cups water
• 1 1/2 cups couscous
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice (from 1/2 lemon)
• 2 tablespoons capers, plus 2 to 3 teaspoons caper brine

Preparation:

1. In a medium bowl, toss the cherry tomatoes with salt, pepper, parsley and 2 tablespoons of the olive oil reserved from the sun-dried tomato jar. Set aside.

2. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of sun-dried tomato oil in a large saucepan over medium. Add the chicken, sun-dried tomatoes, prunes, cumin and ginger and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring frequently, until sizzling and fragrant. Add the water, bring to a boil over high heat and season the liquid with salt to taste. Stir in the couscous, cover, remove from heat and let stand for 5 minutes, until liquid is fully absorbed.

3. Fluff the couscous-chicken mixture with a fork and stir in the lemon juice, capers and caper brine. Spoon the warm couscous and chicken onto a platter and top with the marinated tomatoes.

3. Brothy Corn and Salmon Chowder

Filled with tender pieces of salmon, sweet corn kernels, and cubed potatoes and tomatoes, this lovely soup is both satisfying and easy to make. In the summer, it����ap a perfect vehicle for fresh corn, and you can simmer the cobs in the broth to bolster the flavors. But it����ap just as good with frozen corn whenever you’re craving a light, herby soup with a horseradish kick.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea or table salt, divided, plus more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 teaspoons prepared horseradish, divided, plus more to taste
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 1 pound small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 quart vegetable broth
• 3 cups corn kernels (from 3 to 4 ears of corn, save the cobs), or use frozen corn
• 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes or cubed plum tomatoes
• 1/4 cup chopped basil, dill or chives (or a combination)
• 2 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
• Heavy cream or plain yogurt (or both), for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. Season salmon lightly with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of black pepper, then smear the pieces with 2 teaspoons horseradish. Set aside to marinate briefly.

2. In a soup pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add shallots and 3/4 teaspoon salt, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the potatoes, broth and corn cobs, if you have them, to the pot. Bring liquid to a simmer and let cook for 15 minutes; the potatoes should be almost cooked through.

4. Remove cobs from the pot if you’ve used them. If you like, you can let the cobs cool and squeeze their liquid back into the pot.

5. Add salmon, corn kernels and tomatoes to the pot and cook until the salmon is just cooked through and the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes longer.

6. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon horseradish, herbs and lemon juice. Taste and add more salt, horseradish and lemon, if needed.

7. Serve in bowls, drizzled with heavy cream or dolloped with a little yogurt (or both), if you like.

4. Chermoula Bean Salad

Chermoula, the North African green sauce made of soft herbs, ground spices and chile, is often eaten with seafood, but it also adds brightness and warmth to this no-cook, vegan bean salad. The robust chermoula, which comes together in the food processor, and canned butter beans take it into real meal territory. You can make it ahead, and the crunchy carrots and chewy dates make it fun to eat. Eat this for lunch or dinner with something creamy like yogurt, hummus or burrata, as well as greens, grains or a grilled protein.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 packed cup cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 1 packed cup parsley leaves and tender stems
• 1 serrano chile, roughly chopped (seeds removed if desired)
• 2 garlic cloves
• 1 1/2 teaspoons sweet paprika
• 1 teaspoon ground cumin
• 1/3 cup lemon juice (from 2 lemons)
• 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• Salt
• 2 (15-ounce) cans butter beans, drained and rinsed
• 2 medium carrots, thinly sliced into bite-size rounds or half-moons
• 3 Medjool dates, pitted and coarsely chopped

Preparation:

1. In a food processor, pulse the cilantro, parsley, serrano and garlic until finely chopped. Add the paprika, cumin, lemon juice, olive oil and a big pinch of salt. Pulse until saucy. (Makes 1 cup.)

2. In a large bowl, combine the sauce, beans, carrots and dates. Stir to combine, then taste for salt. Salad will keep in an airtight container for up to 3 days refrigerated.

5. Harissa Shrimp With Greens and Feta

For any ingredient lucky enough to float its way, harissa offers so much beyond the bright red tint it lends. A fruity concentrate of pureed peppers, garlic, spices and oil, this jammy paste deepens in flavor once it����ap kissed by the heat of a broiler. This sheet pan shrimp dish, complete with roasted greens and topped with fresh avocado, feta, onion and cilantro, can be a quick lunch or light dinner. The shrimp is marinated briefly here, but if you have time, you can cover and refrigerate the shrimp for up to 24 hours.

By Yewande Komolafe

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 pound peeled and deveined large shrimp
• 1/4 cup harissa paste
• 4 garlic cloves, grated
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 5 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 limes, divided
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 bunch fresh chard or kale (about 8 ounces), leaves and stems chopped into 1-inch pieces
• 1 medium avocado, sliced
• 1/2 cup chopped red onion
• 1/2 cup crumbled feta
• 1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro
• Couscous or rice (optional), for serving

Preparation:

1. Move a rack in the oven about 3 inches from the top. Heat oven to 400 degrees.

2. In a medium bowl, combine the shrimp, harissa, garlic, cumin and 1 tablespoon oil. Zest and juice 1 lime right into the bowl and cut the other into wedges and set wedges aside. Season shrimp mixture lightly with salt and pepper, toss and marinate for 10 minutes. (If you have time, you can cover and refrigerate the shrimp to marinate for 30 minutes and up to 12 hours for a deeper flavor.)

3. Place the greens on a large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Use your hands to toss and coat the greens and spread in an even layer. Pour 1/2 cup water into the baking sheet.

4. Roast on the top rack, rotating once and stirring with a pair of tongs, until the greens are wilted and stems softened with a slight crunch, about 10 minutes. Move the greens to one side of the baking sheet and turn the oven setting to broil.

5. Add the shrimp in a single layer on the other side and drizzle the shrimp and greens with the remaining 2 tablespoons oil.

6. Broil on the top rack, rotating the pan once, until the shrimp are just cooked, brown around the edges and the greens are brown in spots, 8 to 10 minutes.

7. Toss the shrimp and greens together. Top with avocado, onions, feta and cilantro. Serve immediately, over couscous or rice if you’d like, with lime wedges for squeezing.

This article originally appeared in .

Even in extreme heat, you still want to eat well. But keep the cooking simple, even when you have friends coming over. Thinking about the menu and the season, I was leaning toward traditional picnic fare — deviled eggs, shrimp cocktail, potato salad — but I wanted them all to be just a bit zippier than usual.

People love deviled eggs, right? They’re a little fiddly but worth the effort, and these have a nice kick and plenty of flavor. You must have hard-cooked eggs. I find lowering eggs into rapidly simmering water for 10 minutes, before plunging them into ice-cold water to halt the cooking, to be just right.

Once they’re cooled, I also crack each egg all over against the countertop and put it back into the water for a few minutes. The theory is that this lets water seep between the shell and the egg, allowing for easy peeling and smooth firm whites. I have found the method works well 99% of the time, though I always cook an extra egg or two just in case.

Halving the eggs, take care to remove the cooked yolks so you don’t damage the cooked egg white “boat.” Then, mash the yolks in a small bowl with the seasonings: Dijon mustard, serrano chile, lime zest and juice, and chopped dill, mint or tarragon. I often replace the traditional dollop of mayonnaise with softened butter. This adds a creamy texture and makes the filling a bit firmer, without the worry of leaving the mayo out in warm weather. Though the stuffed eggs look fine simply sprinkled with snipped chives, they are spectacular with a few bright marigold petals on top (or calendula or nasturtium).

For the main course, a pile of cold shrimp and a big bowl of potato salad fit the cold-supper bill perfectly.

Do take the trouble to cook your own shrimp, which will be fresher tasting and cheaper than store-bought cooked shrimp. I usually get frozen large wild-caught shrimp, which are thawed, peeled and deveined — ask someone to help if it seems daunting, but the work goes quickly.

A chef friend turned me on to the trick of quick-cured shrimp tossed with kosher salt and bit of baking soda. The shrimp get 20 minutes in this mixture and a rinse before a brief hot bath enhanced with lemon slices and bay leaves. With this method, once cooled, the shrimp are firm and juicy.

There’s nothing wrong with a horseradishy spicy tomato-based red cocktail sauce, but I came up with a bright green version, made with broiled tomatillos, cilantro and jalapeno, and it was a hit.

I love a good potato salad, but I’m more inclined to make one with a vinaigrette rather than a mayo-based dressing. This one is a gorgeous turmeric-hued yellow. So pretty, I thought it needed yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, too, to add juicy texture and to emphasize the color. Cumin, nigella seeds and scallions add depth. You boil and peel the potatoes, cut them into slices or wedges and dress them, letting them marinate at cool room temperature. Add the cherry tomatoes closer to serving, along with Thai basil or mint leaves.

To me, blackberries are synonymous with late summer. I just adore them, especially the wild ones picked straight from the brambles. Cultivated blackberries from the farmers market or backyard plot are great, too, and I love the elongated cousin called olallieberry.

I especially like combining summery blackberries with lemon and cream. An easy way to get there is by pairing a bowl of juicy berries with lemon sorbet and blob of whipped cream. But, if you’re up for it, a festive blackberry Napoleon is relatively easy and fun to assemble, using store-bought puff pastry. Once the components are ready — the pastry, the lemon curd, the whipped cream and the berries — it takes only a few minutes and is basically a dessert sandwich. Scattered with juicy berries and topped with another pastry layer, it����ap a dreamy finale for a fine cold supper.

Recipe: Deviled Eggs With Chile and Lime

People love deviled eggs, right? They’re a little bit fiddly but worth the effort, and these have a nice kick and plenty of flavor. Take care halving the eggs to remove the cooked yolks so you don’t damage the cooked egg white. Then, mash the yolks in a small bowl with the seasonings: Dijon mustard, serrano chile, lime zest and juice, and chopped dill, mint or tarragon. Here, softened butter replaces the traditional mayo for a creamy texture without worry. Though the stuffed eggs look fine simply sprinkled with snipped chives, they are spectacular with a few bright marigold petals on top (or other edible flowers like calendula or nasturtium).

By David Tanis

Yield: 6 to 12 servings

Total time: 45 minutes

Ingredients:

• 6 large eggs
• Ice
• 3 tablespoons softened unsalted butter or mayonnaise
• 1 teaspoon lime zest plus 2 tablespoons lime juice (from 1 lime)
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 1 teaspoon very finely chopped serrano chile (remove seeds for milder heat)
• Pinch of ground cayenne
• Salt and pepper
• 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh mint, dill or tarragon
• 1 tablespoon snipped chives
• Flaky sea salt, for garnish
• Yellow or orange edible flower petals, like marigold, calendula or nasturtium (optional), for garnish

Preparation:

1. Set a medium pot of water over high heat and bring to a boil. Lower eggs into the pot and return to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 10 minutes. Fill a bowl with cold tap water and ice.

2. Transfer eggs to the ice bath. When eggs are cool, forcefully tap each one all over to crack the shell. Return eggs to ice bath, so water seeps in. Peel eggs and blot on a towel.

3. Cut eggs in half lengthwise. With a small spoon, carefully remove yolks and place in a large bowl. Set the egg whites cut side up on a paper towel-lined plate.

4. To the yolks, add butter, lime zest and juice, mustard, chile and cayenne. Add salt and pepper to taste. Mash to a soft paste with a fork, then use a wooden spoon to thoroughly work the seasoning.

5. Stir in mint and most of the chives, reserving 2 pinches of chives for garnish. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon egg yolk mixture into the cups of the reserved egg whites, dividing it evenly among them.

6. Arrange egg halves on a platter. Sprinkle with flaky salt, remaining chives and petals, if using, and refrigerate until ready to serve. To serve, remove from the fridge and bring to room temperature.

Recipe: Salsa Verde Shrimp Cocktail

For a casual cold supper, you can’t go wrong with shrimp cocktail. This recipe veers from the traditional versions, but you’ll get no complaints. Do take the trouble to cook your own shrimp, which will be fresher tasting and cheaper than store-bought cooked shrimp. Here, large, wild-caught shrimp get thawed, peeled and deveined, then tossed with kosher salt and a bit of baking soda, which helps the shrimp stay firm and juicy, a tip from a chef.

By David Tanis

Yield: 6 servings

Total time: 50 minutes, plus 20 minutes curing

Ingredients:

For the Sauce

• 1 pound tomatillos, husks removed
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), more to taste
• 2 cups cilantro leaves and tender stems
• 2 garlic cloves, mashed to a paste with a little salt
• 1 small jalapeno, thickly sliced crosswise
• 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper
• Pinch of ground cayenne
• 1/2 cup finely diced red onion

For the Shrimp

• 2 pounds wild shell-on large shrimp (16 to 20 per pound), fresh or frozen and thawed
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 2 large bay leaves
• 1/2 lemon, sliced

Preparation:

1. Prepare sauce: Heat the broiler. Put tomatillos on a rimmed tray on the top rack of the oven. Broil until well charred and somewhat softened, about 10 minutes. Remove and let cool.

2. Pulse tomatillos in a food processor until blended. Add salt, cilantro, garlic, jalapeno, red pepper and cayenne. Blend once more, until you have a bright green, thickish sauce. Stir in the diced onion by hand. Taste and adjust seasoning. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate. (Sauce may be prepared 24 hours in advance.)

3. Prepare the shrimp: Peel, leaving tails on or off, and devein the shrimp, and place in a large bowl. Toss with salt and baking soda. Let sit for 20 minutes, then rinse with cold water and drain.

4. To a deep, wide saucepan or skillet, add shrimp, bay leaves and lemon slices. Cover with cold water by 1 inch. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to a brisk simmer. Cook until the shrimp have firmed up and turned pink, 2 minutes. Remove shrimp to a baking sheet and spread out to cool. Transfer to a serving platter or two, and chill. Serve with green sauce.

Recipe: Tomato-Potato Salad

This bright potato salad is dressed with a turmeric-tinged vinaigrette. It looks especially nice with yellow or orange cherry tomatoes, to add juicy texture and emphasize the color. Cumin, nigella seeds and scallions add depth. Boil and peel the potatoes, cut them into slices or wedges and dress them, then let them marinate at cool room temperature. Just before serving, add the cherry tomatoes along with Thai basil or mint leaves.

By David Tanis

Yield: 6 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 3 pounds medium potatoes, such as Yukon Gold
• Salt and black pepper
• 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
• 2 teaspoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon ground turmeric
• 1/2 teaspoon nigella seeds
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 1/2 cup slivered scallions, white and green parts
• 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved and lightly salted
• Thai basil leaves or fresh mint leaves, for garnish

Preparation:

1. Add potatoes to a large pot and boil over high heat until just done and a skewer goes in easily. Drain and let cool slightly until warm enough to handle. Peel and cut into 3/4-inch slices and place in a large bowl. Season generously with salt and pepper.

2. Meanwhile, in a small jar with a lid, put vinegar, sugar, turmeric, nigella, cumin and vegetable oil. Shake jar vigorously to emulsify the dressing. Taste and adjust seasoning.

3. Drizzle dressing over potatoes, add scallions and gently toss everything to coat. Transfer to a serving dish.

4. Scatter cherry tomatoes over the top, along with basil leaves or mint leaves. The salad is best served at room temperature.

Recipe: Blackberry Napoleon With Lemon Cream

Blackberries, lemon and cream are a winning combination, and, if you’re up for it, blackberry Napoleon is a relatively easy and fun dessert to assemble using store-bought puff pastry. Once the various components are ready — the pastry, the lemon curd, the whipped cream and the berries — it takes only a few minutes to put together. It����ap basically a dessert sandwich: You mix whipped cream and lemon curd together and spread it over a sheet of pre-baked crisp flaky puff pastry. Scattered with juicy berries and topped with another pastry layer, it����ap a dreamy finale for a fine cold supper.

By David Tanis

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Total time: 1 hour, 5 minutes

Ingredients:

For the Lemon Curd:

• 3 large eggs
• 1/4 cup/50 grams sugar
• Pinch of salt
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• 1/2 cup/120 milliliters lemon juice (from 3 lemons)
• 4 tablespoons/57 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces
• Ice

For assembly:

• 1 (12-ounce/340-gram) package frozen puff pastry, thawed
• 1 cup/240 milliliters heavy cream
• 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
• Powdered sugar, for cream, berries and garnish
• 2 pints/680 grams blackberries, rinsed and blotted

Preparation:

1. Make the lemon curd: In a large bowl, whisk together eggs, sugar, salt and lemon zest.

2. Put lemon juice in a medium heavy-bottomed saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, keeping a close eye on it so it doesn’t boil away. Slowly whisk hot lemon juice into egg mixture, then pour it all back into the saucepan.

3. Cook over medium-high heat, whisking constantly until mixture begins to thicken, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking until the mixture is quite thick, another 2 minutes, then remove from heat. Whisk in the butter until the mixture looks shiny. Set bowl over ice, whisking occasionally until mixture is smooth and cool, then refrigerate. This should yield about 1 1/4 cups. Lemon curd may be prepared a day or two in advance.

4. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

5. Open the puff pastry sheet and lay it flat. Cut the sheet into two strips lengthwise (each about 4 1/2 by 12 inches). Set strips side-by-side on a parchment lined baking sheet. Bake on the top rack of the oven until puffed and golden, 20 to 25 minutes, taking care not to overcook. If necessary, tent with foil to keep from getting too brown

6. Let cool on a rack. Once cool, use a serrated knife to cut through the equator of the puff pastry, dividing both strips into 2 thinner pieces. If the interior of the pastry looks pale or undercooked, return to oven for a few minutes, cut-side-up.

7. Whip the heavy cream in a chilled bowl with the vanilla and 2 teaspoons powdered sugar until it holds soft peaks. Fold in the chilled lemon curd with a spatula — it����ap OK if the mixture is a little streaky.

8. Assemble: No more than 1 hour before serving, place one of the bottom pieces of baked pastry on a cutting board or a platter. Spread half the lemon-cream mixture across the length.

9. Quickly toss the berries in a bowl with 1 tablespoon powdered sugar. Scatter half the berries in a layer over the lemon cream.

10. Carefully place a top piece of pastry strip on top and press it into place. Keep cool but not refrigerated. Dust top with powdered sugar.

11. Repeat with the other pair of pastry strips, remaining lemon cream and berries. Cut crosswise into wide slices using the serrated knife and serve immediately.

This article originally appeared in .

Here’s what I’ve learned about smoking food. You don’t need a big ol’ smoker (unless you’re smoking a turkey or rack of ribs or the like). You don’t even need a grill, although you can use even a gas grill for smoking. Got a stove? Got a cast-iron pan and some aluminum foil? Can you buy a box or bag of wood chips?

If so, then you, my friend, can take up smoking everything from vegetables, steak, pork chop or fish to — get this — chocolate chip cookies.

I spent an afternoon recently with chef Andrew Bent to learn how he does it. Bent, who was raised in San Diego, started his career at Chive and continued with stints at Chez Panisse, Searsucker and other Brian Malarkey fabric restaurants, Tender Greens, Tiger Tiger and Lola 55. He took up Sonoran-style barbecue with his La Mesa restaurant Papalo Kitchen, now closed.

“I went off on this couple-year journey of taking all the wood-fire knowledge, all the charcuterie and really applying it to the barbecue world and launched Papalo on my own,” he recalled. “I was driving to the desert, and I smelled the desert after it had rained, and all of a sudden I started smelling barbecue, and I was like, I gotta make flavors of barbecue that taste like these smells.”

Eventually, all those grinding 100 hours a week on the job over the years took their toll, but after a three-month hiatus, Bent took up less grueling restaurant consulting and barbecue pop-ups at Aero Club. He’s also opening a new restaurant called Bangers Barbecue in Escondido.

Bent was the perfect person to get a smoking primer from.

Now, you may have some misconceptions about smoking — like it����ap an all-day experience. Like you need a ton of wood and an equal amount of smoke. But Bent has a very different approach, at least with the small stuff.

“Smoking should be treated like salt,” he explained. It����ap a seasoning, and if you look at it just like salt, you can do too much, or you can go really gentle and restrained. I don’t want my food to taste like an ashtray.

“That����ap really why pitmasters, in a lot of ways, are like artists because you really have to tame the smoke,” Bent added. “I want to encourage readers to play around with it a little bit. Do it a few times. Try the recipes out more than once. If it����ap too smoky, or maybe you think you could use a little more, try it again.”

Bent offered three recipes for smoked dishes that are delicious in their own right but also show the spectrum of what a home cook can do with minimal equipment. And he added some easy and delightful accompaniments for them.

He started with a summery, gooey Smoked Tomato Toast, which he served with Calabacitas Gratin. Smoking vegetables is one of those low-effort, high impact dishes. This is the perfect high-summer appetizer, especially if your garden is exploding with both tomatoes and summer squash.

For all of Bent����ap smoked dishes, he takes the same approach: Soak wood chips in a bowl for 30 minutes — he’s a fan of hickory — drain them and place a handful in a foil-lined, hot cast-iron pan. Depending on how much food you’re cooking in the pan, you can place the chips along the side in a pile or spread them out and place a rack over them for the food. Add the food and tightly cover the pan, leaving a small opening on the side to let some smoke escape. This process lasts only five to eight minutes because you’re not actually cooking the food, you’re just infusing it with smoke.

So, soak chips or not? While some chefs smoke with dry chips, Bent is a soaker smoker.

“There’s two schools of thought,” he acknowledged. “One is, with soaking you’re going to release moisture, and it takes longer to smolder in the pan, which is not wrong, but it also softens the smoke. Smoking dry puts off more smoke all at once and brings in bitter notes. Soaking chips also helps prevent home cooking fires.”

And he added, when you’re done with the chips, let them totally cool before you throw them out, again to prevent a fire.

For the smoked tomatoes, he soaked the chips, placed them in the cast-iron skillet on his stove, topped halved Roma tomatoes with olive oil, salt, fresh thyme leaves and garlic, then placed them in the skillet, covered it and turned down the heat so they could smoke for just five minutes or so. Then he took them out and placed them on a pan and slow-roasted them at 200 degrees for six hours. By the time I saw them, they were soft but not collapsed and very jammy, imbued with the soft scent of smoke. He smashed them on toasted bread that he had rubbed with raw garlic cloves. Then he finished the toasts with flaky salt, olive oil and basil.

But that wasn’t enough. Bent also made a rich but easy gratin with onions, a poblano pepper, zucchini and yellow squash, garlic, corn, Monterey Jack cheese, Parmesan cheese, heavy cream and fresh oregano. Once all the ingredients have been cooked and blended, they go into a baking dish and it comes out 20 minutes later, bubbly and with an irresistible cheesy crust. You can eat it as a side dish, but here, Bent slathered it on his smoked tomato toast. It was a breathtaking mouthful — sweet, smoky, cheesy, crunchy and juicy.

Smoking is also for steak. Bent showed me how to smoke an 18-ounce ribeye using the same method as the smoked tomatoes, reminding me that he wasn’t actually cooking the steak. After smoking briefly, you’ll cook it in a low oven until they reach about 118 degrees. Then heat the pan, add beef tallow, then the steak and sear on one side. Then flip it and add some butter (I know, but it����ap so worth it!), top the second side with whole garlic cloves and fresh thyme sprigs and baste for a minute. Remove and let rest.

Bent made Roasted Asparagus with Sauce Gribiche — a cold egg sauce — to accompany the steak. The asparagus can easily be substituted through the seasons with other veggies. The Sauce Gribiche, with its hard-boiled eggs, mayo, mustard, cornichons, capers, tarragon and other banging ingredients, is perfect year-round on broccoli, Brussels sprouts and boiled potatoes, as well as poached or fried fish.

Then came dessert: Smoked Tallow Chocolate Chip Cookies. Yes, this works. Think “your very best chocolate chip cookie” but with an indescribable hint of smoke. The cookies themselves aren’t smoked. Beef tallow is, just briefly. Same technique, only a couple of tablespoons of tallow are placed in a dish in the skillet with the soaked chips for about 10 to 15 minutes. Then it cools and congeals so it can be added to the butter and sugars (granulated and brown) in a stand mixer to be mixed and added to the rest of the cookie ingredients. You can make the dozen cookies Bent made, which come out to about 4 inches in diameter and divinely thick — or make more, thinner cookies. They are sweet, crunchy (also thanks to toasted walnuts) and, yes, just a bit smoky.

Since all the smoking and some cooking was done in cast-iron pans, Bent also offered advice on cleaning them: Wash your pan with soap and water and get all the stuck-on stuff off. Place it on the stove on some heat to evaporate the water, then wipe it out.

“And then I throw like a tablespoon of fat, like a tallow or extra-virgin olive oil, and then wipe that in, and then let it polymerize,” he said, noting the process in which individual molecules bond to form the equivalent of a seal. Because these pans are porous, the heat sends the fat molecules into the pores and seals them.

“Do it right and your cast iron should be nonstick,” he said.

Smoked Tomato Toast

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 1 cup hardwood chips (apple, oak, or cherry)
• 12 to 14 Roma tomatoes (about 1 3/4 pounds), halved lengthwise
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
• 2 cloves garlic, lightly crushed
• 4 slices rustic sourdough bread
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 cloves garlic
• Flaky salt, olive oil and basil to finish (optional)

DIRECTIONS

1: Smoke the tomatoes: Soak hardwood chips in water for 30 minutes. Top tomatoes with olive oil, salt, thyme and garlic. Heat a foil-lined cast-iron pan and place a small handful of damp chips inside. Set a rack over the chips and arrange tomatoes cut side up. Cover tightly with heavy-duty foil, leaving a small spot open to vent and smoke over medium heat on a grill or stovetop for 5 to 8 minutes.

2: While tomatoes are smoking, preheat oven to 200 degrees. Transfer smoked tomatoes to a baking dish or pan and discard chips.

3: Roast for 6 to 8 hours, until concentrated but still juicy and jammy. If you’re not using it immediately, refrigerate.

4: Complete the dish: Toast bread until crisp. Rub lightly with garlic. Top generously with smoked tomatoes. Finish with flaky salt, olive oil, and basil, if desired. Serve with Calabacitas Gratin.

Calabacitas Gratin

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

• 2 1/2 tablespoons butter
• 1 medium white onion, diced
• 1 large poblano pepper, diced
• 4 cups diced zucchini (about 1 pound)
• 2 1/2 cups diced yellow squash (about 10 ounces)
• 5 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 1/4 cups corn kernels
• 1 cup heavy cream
• 2 cups shredded Monterey Jack cheese
• 1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 teaspoon black pepper
• 2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano

DIRECTIONS

1: Cook onion in butter until softened. Add poblano and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add zucchini and squash and cook until just tender. Stir in garlic. Fold in corn.

2: Pour in cream and simmer 3 to 4 minutes. Stir in Monterey Jack.

3: Transfer to a baking dish. Top with Parmesan. Bake at 400 degrees for 15 to 20 minutes, until bubbly and golden with a crispy crust. Spread spoonfuls generously over Smoked Tomato Toast.

Reverse-Seared Ribeye

Makes 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

• Two 18-ounce bone-in ribeye steaks
• 2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper
• 1 cup hickory chips
• 1 tablespoon beef tallow
• 3 tablespoons butter
• 5 garlic cloves
• 6 to 8 sprigs fresh thyme

DIRECTIONS

1: Season steaks with salt and pepper at least 1 hour ahead of dining.

2: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Soak hardwood chips for 30 minutes. Drain and wrap chips in foil. Place in cast-iron smoker and add steaks. Cover and smoke for 5 minutes.

3: Remove chips and transfer steaks in pan to oven. Cook uncovered until the internal temperature reaches 118 to 120 degrees.

4: Meanwhile heat cast-iron skillet to very hot. Remove steaks and add beef tallow to skillet. Add steaks and sear. Flip and add butter. Top steak with whole garlic cloves and thyme. Baste about 1 minute.

5: Remove from heat and rest 10 minutes before slicing.

Roasted Asparagus With Sauce Gribiche

Makes 4 to 6 servings

INGREDIENTS

For the Sauce Gribiche:

• 2 hard-boiled egg yolks
• 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
• 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon red wine vinegar
• 2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 hard-boiled egg whites, finely chopped
• 1/4 cup diced cornichons
• 2 tablespoons capers
• 2 tablespoons minced shallot
• 3 tablespoons chopped parsley
• 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
• 2 tablespoons chopped chives
• 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

For the asparagus:

• 1 pound asparagus
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon kosher salt
• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1: Prepare the sauce: Mash egg yolks with Dijon and vinegar. Slowly whisk in olive oil until emulsified. Fold in remaining ingredients.

2: Adjust seasoning and chill.

3: Prepare the asparagus: Toss asparagus with olive oil, salt and pepper. Roast at 425 degrees for 8 to 10 minutes.

4: To serve, place asparagus on plate and spoon sauce over the vegetables.

Smoked Tallow Chocolate Chip Cookies

Makes 10 to 12 4-inch cookies

INGREDIENTS

• 2 tablespoons beef tallow
• 1 cup hickory chips
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
• 1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons packed brown sugar
• 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
• 1 large egg
• 1 1/4 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 2/3 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
• 2 cups dark chocolate chips
• 3/4 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

DIRECTIONS

1: Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Soak hickory chips in water for 30 minutes. While they’re soaking, place beef tallow in a small bowl and render slowly until completely melted (or use store-bought rendered beef tallow). Strain through cheesecloth.

2: While still liquid, drain and wrap chips in foil, place in cast-iron skillet and add bowl of tallow, placing it on folded foil. Cover and smoke gently for 10 to 15 minutes. Cool tallow completely before using.

3: Cream smoked tallow, butter and both sugars in a stand mixer with a paddle attachment on medium speed for about 5 minutes. Mix in egg and vanilla. Add dry ingredients and mix until just combined. Fold in chocolate chips and walnuts.

4: Portion into approximately 1/4-cup (80 gram) scoops. Bake at 350 degrees for 12 to 14 minutes. Remove from oven and let cool on a rack. Serve with ice cream.

Recipes by Andrew Bent.

“Knives damage lettuce,” was her oft-given advice, a warning offered with sincerity. If she had seen a wedge salad in her day, she likely wouldn’t have approved. That is until she tasted it. The crunch of an Iceberg wedge is welcome mouth noise. Factor in the blue cheese dressing and the deliciousness is undeniable, especially when asparagus, cherry tomatoes, and fresh chives come to the party.

Wedge Veg Salad with Blue Cheese Dressing

Yield: 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

Dressing:

• 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
• Salt and ground white pepper to taste
• 1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
• 1/2 cup crumbled blue cheese, plus 2 tablespoons for garnish
• 1/2 cup buttermilk
• 1/4 cup mayonnaise
• 1/2 cup canola oil

Salad:

• 2 medium heads Iceberg lettuce, washed, drained, each cut into 4 or 6 lengthwise quarters
• 2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
• 1 bunch asparagus, trimmed, cooked tender-crisp, cold or at room temperature
• 2 to 3 tablespoon thinly sliced chives
• Plenty of freshly ground black pepper

DIRECTIONS

1. For dressing: In medium bowl, combine vinegar, salt, pepper and dry mustard; stir until well combined and salt dissolves. Add remaining ingredients (reserving 2 tablespoons cheese for garnish) and stir to combine. Refrigerate well-sealed. If too thick, add enough cold water to reach desired consistency. You will need 1 cup of dressing for this recipe.

2. Place lettuce wedges side by side on a rimmed platter. Place asparagus next to lettuce. Scatter cherry tomato halves around and on top of lettuce. Stir dressing and spoon dressing on top of lettuce, covering the middle area of the wedges. Garnish with reserved cheese, chives and pepper. Provide knives to diners, preferably steak knives. Serve.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “Melissa’s 50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at .

Extravagant buttered lobster rolls and briny oysters top the gustatory bucket lists of most summer visitors to New England’s shore. But among many denizens of the sandy precincts stretching from Cape Cod through southern Massachusetts and Rhode Island, a humbler bite is equally beloved: the stuffed quahog — or “stuffie,” in local parlance.

A species of hard-shelled Atlantic clams (Mercenaria mercenaria) that can grow as fat as a fist, quahogs prefer the mild estuaries of southern New England to the frigid, saline open waters up north. The tidal shallows around Narragansett Bay are especially hospitable, a quirk of ecology that����ap fostered a particular passion for the dish among Rhode Islanders. (In 2023, a cadre of 7-foot-tall stuffie statues were deployed around the country as the centerpiece of a state tourism campaign.)

Though cousins to clams casino and clams oreganata, stuffies reflect a diversity of influences unique to this watery corner of the country. The Wampanoag and other Algonquian peoples had been harvesting quahogs for millennia before the arrival of Europeans. But modern stuffie recipes are characterized by both a “make-do and use-it-up” spirit of Yankee thrift and ingredients like chouriço and linguiça sausage that arrived in the 1800s with the Portuguese, Azorean and Cape Verdean migrants who built communities around the region’s marine industries and textile mills.

When Marcey Bartnicki was growing up in the South Coast town of Acushnet, Massachusetts, in the 1980s, pit stops at takeout clam shacks were a fundamental part of the rhythm of summer. “Clam cakes, stuffies, I thought everybody knew what those were,” she said. After moving inland to Nashua, New Hampshire, however, she was dismayed to find herself in a stuffie desert. To satisfy cravings, she realized she’d need to make her own.

Happily, stuffies are not only suited to home cooking but, once prepped, freeze exceptionally well, souvenirs of the shore that can be socked away for colder, darker days.

Diehards may insist on digging their own clams. But should you lack will or proximity, many grocery stores and well-stocked fish markets supply clams year-round, or they can get them for you if you call ahead. (Bartnicki buys her fixings at Market Basket.) When fresh isn’t an option, seek out containers of chopped raw sea clams, another large species that fishmongers often sell frozen. (Though don’t forget: You’ll need to get your hands on some clamshells, too.)

Quahog clams are sometimes better known by names they are assigned according to size, which include petite littlenecks, midsize topnecks and hefty cherrystones. The largest ones are also called quahogs, or sometimes chowder clams. You want the big boys for this.

Mac Hay, founder of Mac’s Seafood, which operates markets and restaurants across Cape Cod, started making stuffies alongside his grandfather during childhood summers at the family home in Truro, Massachusetts. Back then, Hay said, they used whatever the tide provided — quahogs or sea clams. After steaming, chopping and reserving the stock, the rest of the formula was elemental: diced onion, celery and a bit of pork fat (usually Portuguese linguiça sausage or bacon), bound with breadcrumbs, mounded into a shell and baked until golden.

Hay’s methods have grown a bit more sophisticated since. Nowadays, he adds white wine, garlic, fresh herbs, crushed crackers (often gluten-free) instead of plain breadcrumbs and, to really punch it up, a finishing hit of sherry, a trick from Howard Mitcham, a colorful local artist and chef who was an early guru for Anthony Bourdain. One element that hasn’t altered: Portuguese sausage. “If you tried to make a stuffie without linguiça in Provincetown,” Hay said, “they’d probably shoot you.”

In her kitchen, Bartnicki follows a slightly different blueprint, folding in bits of sweet red pepper and forgoing garlic and wine. For a binder, she typically reaches for stale Portuguese rolls or leftover sweet bread — though, on this point, there is abundant flexibility. Other cooks cite crushed Ritz crackers or Pepperidge Farm stuffing mix as go-tos. Toasted cornbread cubes lend an especially appealing edge of sweetness.

But taking a rigid approach to ingredients runs counter to the spirit of the dish. “Stuffies are tavern food,” Hay said. “They’re easy to prepare, hard to mess up and a good source of protein, too” — ideal fortification alongside a few beers or a bottle of Vinho Verde.

Both agree that, to preserve their tenderness, quahogs ought to be steamed briefly, just until opening and finely chopped. For the fullest flavor of the sea, the stuffing should be deeply moistened with clam cooking broth and then generously scooped (but not tightly packed) into cleaned shells. Topping each one with a knob of butter before baking lends a final layer of richness and crunch. Besides the aforementioned beverages, lemon wedges and a bottle of vinegary hot sauce are all the accompaniments needed.

In other words: Avoid fuss, and feel free to follow the spirit of summer where it moves you. “Stuffies are kind of like grandma’s Sunday gravy,” Hay said. “Everyone’s got their own angle.”

Stuffies (New England-Style Stuffed Clams)

A canonical coastal New England comfort food, “stuffies” are large clamshells packed with briny chopped quahog clams, smoky sausage, dried bread and aromatics, all baked until golden. Though a close cousin of clams casino and clams oreganata, this shoreline treat reflects influences unique to the region stretching from Cape Cod south to Rhode Island — including a “make do” spirit of Yankee thrift and ingredients introduced in the 1800s by the Portuguese, Azorean and Cape Verdean migrants who built communities around the area’s marine industries and textile mills. Though the outlines of stuffie recipes are fairly standard, they offer endless opportunities for riffing. Can’t find fresh quahogs? Ask your fishmonger for chopped sea clams. Avoiding bread? Substitute crushed gluten-free crackers. Have a link of leftover kielbasa kicking around? Swap that in for linguiça. As Mac Hay, founder of Mac’s Seafood in Wellfleet, Massachusetts, says, “Stuffies are kind of like grandma’s Sunday gravy. Everyone’s got their own angle.” Share them with friends and family, preferably with a generous supply of cold beer or wine close at hand.

By Sarah Karnasiewicz

Yield: 6 servings (12 to 24 stuffies, depending on size of clams)

Total time: 1 hour, 35 minutes

Ingredients

• 10 pounds large hard-shelled clams (12 to 16 large quahogs or 24 to 36 cherrystones), see Tip
• 1 1/2 cups water
• 1 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine, divided
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons butter, plus more for topping
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 3 celery stalks, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
• 1/2 red bell pepper, finely chopped
• 1 large sweet onion, finely chopped
• 1/2 cup crumbled or finely chopped linguiça or chouriço sausage (see Tip)
• 4 garlic cloves, minced (about 2 tablespoons)
• 1/4 teaspoon smoked paprika
• 1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper, plus more to taste
• 3 lemons (1 zested and juiced, 2 cut into wedges for serving)
• 2 1/2 cups coarsely crushed crackers (such as Ritz or saltines), crumbled stale bread, breadcrumbs or cornbread stuffing mix (see Tip)
• 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley leaves
• Hot sauce, for serving, option

Preparation

1. Prepare the clams: Scrub and rinse the clams well, discarding any clams that are cracked or appear open. Add the clams to a large pot with the water, 3/4 cup of the vermouth and 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, cover and simmer just until the clams steam open, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the clams into a large bowl and let cool briefly. Strain the clam cooking broth through a fine-mesh sieve to remove any sand or debris, then set aside 3 cups. (If you are using store-bought chopped raw clam meat, see Tip and skip ahead to Step 3.)

2. Once the clams are cool enough to handle, pull them from their shells, reserving the shells. Roughly chop the meat and place in a medium bowl (you are aiming for a yield of about 2 1/2 cups of chopped clam meat). Sort through the shells and select 12 to 24 of nicest, largest ones. (The number will depend on the size of the clams you are using — the larger the clams, the fewer you need.) Rinse the shells under warm water and gently scrub them to remove any lingering debris. Pat dry, then transfer to a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet, cupped side up.

3. Heat oven to 400 degrees and place a rack in the upper third.

4. Add 2 tablespoons butter and 1 tablespoon olive oil to a large, high-sided skillet over medium-high heat. Once the butter has melted, add the celery, bell pepper, onions and linguiça. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the linguiça has begun to brown and render its fat and the vegetables are soft and gently colored, 12 to 15 minutes.

5. Add the garlic, smoked paprika and crushed red pepper and continue cooking, stirring often, until deeply fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes more. Deglaze the pot with 1/4 cup vermouth and 1 cup of reserved clam broth, scraping up any browned bits. Stir in the reserved chopped clam meat (along with any juices that have collected in the bowl), lemon zest and juice. Turn off heat.

6. Add the crushed crackers to the pan and fold them into the clam mixture. If the mixture looks dry, drizzle it with more reserved clam broth, 1/4 cup a time (up to another cup): You are aiming for a stuffing that is very moist but not wet (a spoonful should hold its shape, not slump). Fold in the parsley. Taste and season with salt and pepper and a bit more crushed red pepper if desired. (If using store-bought raw clam meat instead of steamed quahogs, skip tasting here — the stuffing needs to be cooked first.)

7. Divide the stuffing among the cleaned clamshells (using about 1/3 to 1/2 cup stuffing per shell, depending on size), resisting the urge to pack it in too hard — you want the stuffing to be generously mounded but not dense. Arrange the clamshells on the prepared baking sheet and dot each one with a small nub (about 1/8 teaspoon) of butter. (If you’d like to freeze the prepped stuffies to bake later, stop here and see Tip.)

8. Bake stuffies until hot all the way through, about 15 minutes, then heat the broiler. Broil until golden brown and a bit crusty on top, about 5 minutes more. Serve stuffies warm on a platter, with lemon wedges and hot sauce on the side, if desired. A cold six-pack of beer or a bottle of Vinho Verde is also a welcome accompaniment.

Tips

Quahogs (pronounced “CO-hogs”) can refer to both a species of large hard-shelled northern Atlantic clam and also the largest variety of those clams, also sometimes called chowder clams. They’re the big boys you’ll want for this recipe. Before cooking, store your clams in the coldest part of your refrigerator in a bowl covered with damp paper towels but do not submerge them in water until you’re ready to clean and cook them.

If fresh hard-shelled clams are difficult to source, you can substitute about 2 1/2 cups (14 ounces) raw chopped sea clam meat or — as a last resort — 3 (6.5-ounce) cans of drained chopped clams. Many fish markets sell chopped raw clam meat and may also have cleaned shells available to purchase (just call in advance and ask). If you choose this route, skip Steps 1 and 2 and substitute bottled clam juice for the clam cooking broth.

Chouriço and linguiça are two varieties of Portuguese smoked pork sausage; chouriço tends to be a bit spicier and linguiça can be more garlicky, but either is a traditional choice. If your market doesn’t carry either, smoked kielbasa and Spanish chorizo are decent substitutes.

Stuffies freeze well, so it����ap easy to prep them ahead to enjoy anytime you need a taste of New England summer. After the clamshells have been filled but before they’re baked, let the stuffies cool to room temperature, then wrap them tightly in a layer of foil and plastic wrap and freeze. To reheat, unwrap and place on a baking sheet in a 400-degree oven and bake until cooked through, hot and golden, about 20 minutes.

This article originally appeared in .

But when I see ads for sneakers and computers and pencils and backpacks in June — before I’ve even unearthed my flip-flops from the back of the closet — I want to bury my head in the proverbial sand.

Alas, dear reader, it is mid-August, and almost half of the country’s kiddos have already returned to school. You’re either in it, or you’re soon to be in it, and you and your people have to eat. (And even if you don’t have kids, you’re still a very busy person!) These easy, fast and affordable meals will make back-to-school season a little bit easier.

1. Slow Cooker Chicken and Bean Fideo

Similar to vermicelli, fideo are short, delicate noodles that are often used in Spanish and Mexican cooking, as in the Mexican classic, sopa de fideo. This nontraditional slow-cooker dish puts fideo to good use in a medium-spicy, smoky chicken and bean braise. You can dial the heat up and down by including more or fewer chipotles in the mix. It����ap a comforting stew of tender chicken, pinto beans (you can sub in black beans) and toasted noodles. The toasting step adds a deeper flavor to the finished dish, but you can skip it if you’re pressed for time and simply break the noodles up directly into the slow cooker. Serve with plenty of cilantro and avocado.

By Sarah DiGregorio

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: 4 hours, 20 minutes

Ingredients:

• 3 canned chipotle chilies in adobo, minced, plus 3 tablespoons adobo sauce, from 1 (7-ounce) can
• 5 garlic cloves, smashed and chopped
• 4 tablespoons canola oil, divided
• 1 tablespoon honey
• 1 tablespoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more to taste
• 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar, plus more to taste
• 1 teaspoon dried oregano
• 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
• 2 pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
• 6 ounces fideo (see Tip)
• 2 (15.5-ounce) cans pinto beans, drained and rinsed
• Cilantro and chopped avocado, for topping

Preparation:

1. In a 6- to 8-quart slow cooker, stir together the chipotles and adobo sauce, the garlic, 2 tablespoons of the oil, the honey, salt, vinegar, oregano and cumin. Add the chicken and stir well to combine, getting the sauce in all the nooks and crannies of the chicken.

2. Cook on low until the chicken is very tender, about 4 hours.

3. Warm the remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the fideo, breaking up the noodles into small lengths if necessary. Toast the noodles in the oil, stirring continuously, until most of the noodles are a deep golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Scrape the toasted noodles into the slow cooker. Coarsely break the chicken up with two forks. Add 1 1/2 cups water and the beans and stir to combine. Cover and cook on low until the noodles are just tender and the beans are warmed through, 10 to 20 minutes, stirring once to ensure all the noodles get cooked evenly.

5. Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more salt or vinegar as you like. Serve topped with cilantro and avocado.

TIP: Some brands of fideo are sold already cut, some are sold in bundles that you can break up into the skillet.

2. One-Pot Tuna Orzo With Zucchini

Sweet, savory and super-simple, this dish is made mostly from pantry staples and cooked all in one pot. Chewy raisins add an unexpected sweetness tempered by a bit of acidic red wine vinegar. Canned tuna is a great protein choice for weeknight dinners but be sure to buy the oil-packed variety for cooking — it����ap much more tender. If you find it, high-quality oil-packed jarred tuna is even tastier. That said, jarred and canned tuna is fully cooked, so it����ap best added at the end to warm the tuna through without overcooking it.

By Samantha Seneviratne

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 35 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 medium zucchini, cut into 1-inch pieces (about 5 cups)
• 2 large garlic cloves, grated
• Salt
• Red-pepper flakes
• 12 ounces orzo
• 3 cups chicken broth
• 1 (5-ounce) can olive-oil packed tuna, drained
• 1/4 cup golden raisins
• 3 tablespoons capers
• 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
• 1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, torn
• 1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, torn
• Grated Pecorino Romano, for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. In a large, high-sided skillet, heat the oil over high. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring often, until browned, about 6 minutes.

2. Adjust heat to medium, stir in the garlic and season with salt and red pepper. (Do not let the garlic burn.) Add the orzo and cook for 1 minute, stirring. Stir in the broth and bring to a simmer. Cover and cook until the orzo is tender and the liquid is almost absorbed, about 6 minutes, stirring occasionally.

3. Stir in the tuna, raisins, capers and vinegar and cook until just warmed through. Add the herbs right before serving. Top with cheese if desired.

3. Quick Turkey Chili

By Genevieve Ko

Can this be considered chili if it����ap ready in half an hour? For a completely fresh take, yes — yes, it can. Right when it����ap done, the kale, cilantro and peppers remain green as grass with a bright bite. The turkey is still tender and juicy, the tomatoes tangy and the spices tingly. Those distinct lanes of flavor merge if you keep the pot over low heat for an hour or more, or if you pack up leftovers and reheat them throughout the week. Thickened with lentils and a whole pound of kale, this chili is hearty with protein and fiber, making it as satisfying as it is satiating.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

• Grapeseed or canola oil
• 1 large yellow onion, diced
• 3 Hatch or Cubanelle peppers, seeded and diced
• 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
• 1 serrano or jalapeño chili, seeded for mild if desired, finely chopped
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 pound ground turkey, preferably dark meat
• 3 tablespoons chili powder
• 1 tablespoon ground coriander
• 2 teaspoons ground cumin
• 1 pound frozen kale, thawed
• 2 (14.5-ounce) cans diced tomatoes with green chilies
• 2 cups chicken broth, plus more if needed
• 1 (15-ounce) can lentils, drained and rinsed
• 1 bunch cilantro, finely chopped (including stems)
• Lime wedges, sour cream or yogurt, cheese and rice (optional), for serving

Preparation:

1. Heat a large Dutch oven or other heavy pot over high until hot. Add a very thin sheen of oil and swirl to coat. Add the onion and spread in a single layer. Cook, without stirring, until the bottoms are deeply charred, 2 to 3 minutes.

2. Drizzle more oil into the pan. Add the peppers, garlic and serrano. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring often, until the onion is translucent, 1 to 2 minutes. Push the vegetables to one side of the pot.

3. Coat the empty side of the pot with oil, and then add the turkey and spread it over that half of the pan. Sprinkle the turkey and vegetables with the chili powder, coriander and cumin. Cook, smashing the spices and aromatics into the meat and breaking the meat into tiny pieces, 2 to 3 minutes. The spices should smell toasted.

4. Add the kale and cook, stirring, until any liquid has evaporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and chicken broth and bring to a boil. For a thicker chili, smash the lentils a bit. Stir in the lentils and return to a boil. Turn the heat down to maintain a simmer and stir in half of the cilantro. At this point, the chili is ready and will taste light and fresh with crisp green vegetables. You also can keep simmering it for hours over the lowest heat setting for a softer, stewier chili. If the mixture dries out, add more broth or water.

5. Serve the chili with the lime wedges, sour cream, cheese and remaining cilantro, over rice if you’d like.

4. Slow Cooker Jalapeño Pulled Pork

This four-ingredient recipe draws inspiration from carnitas, barbecue pulled pork and Vietnamese caramel pork for sticky, sweet and spicy pulled meat. Braising browned pork shoulder in a slow cooker in pickled jalapeño brine and fish sauce tenderizes the meat and adds savory depth. Part of the cooking liquid then simmers with brown sugar and pickled jalapeño slices for a glaze to drape over pull-apart, crispy-edged meat. Eat over rice, tortillas or burger buns.

By Ali Slagle

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: About 6 1/2 hours

Ingredients:

• 2 tablespoons grapeseed or vegetable oil
• 2 1/2 to 3 pounds boneless pork shoulder, cut into roughly 2-inch pieces
• Salt
• 1 (12-ounce) jar pickled jalapeño slices
• 2 tablespoons fish sauce
• 1/2 cup brown sugar

Preparation:

1. In a large Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high. Sprinkle the pork lightly with salt. Add to the pot, in batches if necessary to keep from crowding, and sear until browned on all sides, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a 5- to 8-quart slow cooker. Pour off any excess fat from the pot, then reserve and don’t wash the pot.

2. Hold the pickled jalapeños back with your fingers and pour the brine into the slow cooker (about 3/4 cup). Add the fish sauce. Cover and cook on low until the meat shreds easily when pulled with a fork, 4 to 6 hours.

3. Spoon off the layer of fat from the liquid in the slow cooker, then pour 1 cup of the liquid from the slow cooker into the reserved Dutch oven. Add the brown sugar and 2 to 4 tablespoons pickled jalapeño slices, depending on heat preference. Simmer over medium-high, scraping the bottom of the pot, until the mixture reduces by half and resembles maple syrup, 7 to 9 minutes.

4. Working right in the slow cooker, use two forks to shred the meat into large, bite-size pieces. Stir the sauce into the pork.

5. Cod With Caper-Orange Sauce

This simple fish dinner is all about contrast: tender, flaky white fish over a bed of spinach, paired with a vibrant, citrusy sauce that����ap equal parts briny, sweet and gently spiced. The sauce comes together in minutes; olive oil gets infused with garlic, orange zest and turmeric, then balanced with vinegar, honey and plenty of chopped capers. The result is bright and aromatic, with just enough richness to coat the fish beautifully. The olive oil gives it a smooth, rounded depth, while a touch of butter ties everything together into a silky, golden sauce. It����ap the kind of meal that feels fresh and nourishing, but still quick enough for a weeknight. Serve it with rice, couscous, or plenty of bread to soak up every last bit.

By Nargisse Benkabbou

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

• 4 tablespoons olive oil, divided
• 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• Grated zest of an orange, plus 1/4 cup orange juice (from 1 orange)
• 1 1/2 teaspoons white vinegar
• 1 teaspoon honey
• 1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
• Fine sea salt
• 2 tablespoons nonpareil capers, chopped, plus whole ones for garnish
• 8 cups/11 ounces packed spinach leaves, stemmed and roughly torn if large, or use baby kale or chopped stemmed collard greens
• 4 (5- to 7-ounce) skinless cod fillets (or other white fish such as haddock or hake)
• 1 tablespoon butter

Preparation:

1. Make the caper orange sauce: In a medium bowl, add 3 tablespoons olive oil, the garlic, orange zest, orange juice, vinegar, honey, turmeric and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Use a fork to whisk until emulsified, then add the chopped capers. Set aside.

2. Heat the remaining tablespoon of olive oil in a large frying pan over medium-high for 1 to 2 minutes. Add the spinach and cook, tossing frequently, until just wilted, 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and cover to keep warm.

3. Pat the fish fillets dry with paper towels and season lightly with salt on all sides.

4. In the same pan over medium heat, pour the caper-orange sauce and bring to a simmer. Add the butter and keep stirring until it has melted.

5. Add the cod fillets and cook on one side, 2 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of your fillets. Use a spatula to gently flip the fillets and continue cooking for another 2 to 4 minutes, until the fish is cooked through and flakes easily with a fork.

6. Before serving, drain the spinach (if it has released any liquid) and spread across a large serving plate. Arrange the fish fillets on top and spoon the warm sauce over. Garnish with extra capers and serve immediately.

This article originally appeared in .

The word “chowder” is most likely borrowed from the French chaudière, meaning cauldron, brought to Newfoundland by Breton fishermen. The earliest recipes date back to the 18th century. These were hearty stews made by layering fish, salt pork, onions and ship’s biscuits into the pot, and then letting it all simmer into something thick and satisfying.

Over the centuries, distinct regional styles developed, each with its own panache. New England favors seafood and potatoes in a pale, milky base. Manhattan swaps tomatoes for the dairy. Rhode Island makes a clear, brothy soup that highlights the saline flavor of the clams. And at some point in the 19th century, corn made its way into the pot, sometimes edging out the seafood entirely.

Since I have no roots in New England, Rhode Island nor even really Manhattan (I’m a native Brooklynite), I’ve never felt loyalty to a particular style. So, my latest take borrows from all of them. The broth is light and clear, a nod to Rhode Island. Cubed cherry tomatoes lend a colorful Manhattan flair. Corn and potatoes give it the sweetness and heft of a good vegetable chowder. And those looking for New England can stir a spoonful of heavy cream or yogurt into your bowl without having to commit the whole pot.

The biggest chowder outlier in my recipe is salmon, which I season with a large and untraditional dollop of horseradish. But the pink fish works well, adding its sweet flavor and velvety flesh to the mix of potatoes and corn, while the horseradish perks everything up with its inimitable zing.

If you have fresh corn, be sure to throw the naked cobs into the broth with the potatoes as they simmer; the cobs release a subtle earthiness that you won’t get from the kernels alone. But if you’re cob-less, frozen corn also works well, making this is a soup for all seasons.

And this is one of its many charms. In winter, like all soups, it����ap warming and restorative. But July and August are when it really shines: a light and summery tribute to fresh corn and tomatoes at their peak.

Brothy Corn and Salmon Chowder

By Melissa Clark

Filled with tender pieces of salmon, sweet corn kernels, and cubed potatoes and tomatoes, this lovely soup is both satisfying and easy to make. In the summer, it����ap a perfect vehicle for fresh corn, and you can simmer the cobs in the broth to bolster the flavors. But it����ap just as good with frozen corn whenever you’re craving a light, herby soup with a horseradish kick.

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Total time: 40 minutes

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces
• 1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea or table salt, divided, plus more to taste
• Freshly ground black pepper
• 3 teaspoons prepared horseradish, divided, plus more to taste
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 2 shallots, chopped
• 1 pound small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
• 1 quart vegetable broth
• 3 cups corn kernels (from 3 to 4 ears of corn, save the cobs), or use frozen corn
• 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes or cubed plum tomatoes
• 1/4 cup chopped basil, dill or chives (or a combination)
• 2 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
• Heavy cream or plain yogurt (or both), for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. Season salmon lightly with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of black pepper, then smear the pieces with 2 teaspoons horseradish. Set aside to marinate briefly.

2. In a soup pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add shallots and 3/4 teaspoon salt, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the potatoes, broth and corn cobs, if you have them, to the pot. Bring liquid to a simmer and let cook for 15 minutes; the potatoes should be almost cooked through.

4. Remove cobs from the pot if you’ve used them. If you like, you can let the cobs cool and squeeze their liquid back into the pot.

5. Add salmon, corn kernels and tomatoes to the pot and cook until the salmon is just cooked through and the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes longer.

6. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon horseradish, herbs and lemon juice. Taste and add more salt, horseradish and lemon, if needed.

7. Serve in bowls, drizzled with heavy cream or dolloped with a little yogurt (or both), if you like.

This article originally appeared in .

A friend recently returned from a trip to Sicily and raved about the region’s incredible pistachios. I decided to use them as a crunchy crust for salmon fillets.

To make dinner even easier, I arranged the salmon and fresh asparagus on a baking sheet and roasted them together in a 400 degree oven for just 10 minutes. It����ap a simple, flavorful meal with almost no cleanup. To round out the dinner, I served the fish with one-minute microwaveable quinoa, making this a wholesome, weeknight meal that comes together in minutes.

HELPFUL HINTS:

Regular quinoa can be used if microwaveable quinoa isn’t available.

Look for roasted, shelled pistachios at the market.

COUNTDOWN:

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.

Assemble ingredients.

Make salmon and asparagus.

Microwave quinoa.

SHOPPING LIST:

To buy:

• 3/4 pound wild caught salmon
• 1 bag roasted shelled pistachio nuts
• 1 jar Dijon mustard
• 1 bottle honey
• 1/2 pound asparagus
• 1 lemon
• 1 container microwaveable quinoa

Staples: olive oil, salt and black peppercorns.

Pistachio-Crusted Salmon

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer

• 3/4 pound wild caught salmon fillet
• 1/2 cup roasted shelled pistachio nuts
• Zest from lemon
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
• 2 teaspoons honey
• 1/2 pound asparagus
• 4 teaspoons olive oil, divided use
• 1 cup microwaveable quinoa
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil. Chop the pistachio nuts into small pieces in a food processor. Or chop them on a cutting board with a sharp knife. Be careful not to turn them into fine dust if using a food processor. Mix the lemon zest, lemon juice, mustard and honey together in a small bowl. Add the pistachio pieces. Toss all together. Place the salmon skin side down on the foil lined sheet. Spread the pistachio mixture over the salmon and press into the salmon with a spoon or your hands. Snap off the tough woody ends (about 2 inches) of the asparagus and discard. Place the asparagus next to the salmon on the sheet. Place it in the oven for 8 to 10 minutes. A meat thermometer should read 140 degrees. Meanwhile, microwave the quinoa according to package instructions. Toss with 2 teaspoons olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Divide in half and place on two dinner plates. When the salmon is ready, divide into two portions and place on the quinoa on the dinner plates. Place the asparagus on the plates with the salmon and quinoa. Drizzle the two remaining teaspoons oil over the asparagus.

Yield 2 servings.

Per serving: 635 calories (51 percent from fat), 36.0 g fat (4.1 g saturated, 16.9 g monounsaturated), 96 mg cholesterol, 46.4 g protein, 34.9 g carbohydrates, 25.7 g fiber, 217 mg sodium.

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