By Kayla Hoang, The New York Times
As a recipe creator, digging into a recipe, ingredient by ingredient, is my favorite part of the job. Often, itap easy to predict how they’ll act and adjust accordingly. Sometimes, though, a recipe can feel impossible to crack. Enter butter rice cakes.
Also known as Shanghai butter mochi and butter tteok, butter rice cakes are a style of mochi that are subtly sweet and deeply buttery. They have taken the internet by storm, especially in South Korea. As with many viral recipes, this one’s history is vague. The cakes are often attributed to bakeries around Shanghai. One theory credits a baker in Nantong, China, just north of Shanghai, who combined the traditional Chinese rice cake nian gao with custardy French canelés. Other influences may be Hawaiian butter mochi and Filipino bibingka; though their ingredients and cooking methods differ, their batters are similar.
Coming up with a version for home cooks that was browned and crisp on the outside while still bouncy and buttery in the center when baked in a muffin tin was ambitious.
Early on, I used a fluid batter made, in part, with tapioca flour and a good amount of milk. But those cakes separated from the pan and browned unevenly. I knew I needed a denser batter, so I lessened the milk. The tapioca was eventually replaced with more mochiko, as suggested by Genevieve Ko, my editor, who had found results could vary from brand to brand of tapioca flour.
To ensure that crisp brown crust, the batter is baked in a well-buttered tin. But exactly how much butter to use was hard to gauge. At first, thinking the water from the butter was steaming the bottoms, I cut back. Instead, too little butter made the crust hard, while still unevenly browned. A generous, almost excessive, amount of butter was needed.
The most important piece to the puzzle, though, was the baking pan. After testing exclusively in a nonstick muffin tin, the most even browning came from an uncoated pan: In a nonstick muffin pan, the butter proved more likely to spread unevenly.
It took over a dozen tests for the recipe to take its final shape, but it felt incredible when it did. The resulting mochi have deeply caramelized crusts that produce that addictive ASMR crunch and give way to their bouncy, chewy center. For the best texture, enjoy them while still warm. A drizzle of condensed milk makes them all the better.
Recipe: Butter Rice Cakes
Also known as Shanghai butter mochi, Shanghai butter rice cakes and butter tteok in South Korea, these butter mochi are individually sized, extra-crunchy and have taken the internet by storm. There are multiple theories about how the cakes originated. While some attribute them to bakeries in and outside of Shanghai, another popular belief is that the mochi were invented by an unknown baker in Nantong, China who combined nian gao with French canelé. From there, the crispy mochi became extremely popular at bakeries in the Jiangsu-Zhejiang region of China before going viral, particularly in Korea. Given the similar batter, Hawaiian butter mochi is also a likely influence — though Shanghai butter mochi use dairy milk in place of coconut. The key to achieving their deeply browned, crackly crust and just-sweet-enough, bouncy center is to bake the cakes in a well-buttered muffin tin (or madeleine pan), frying the outside. A bit of honey in the batter further encourages browning. Though tapioca starch is often a component, different brands can produce wildly different results; for the sake of consistency, this recipe skips it, but the cakes still turn out wonderfully light and bouncy.
By Kayla Hoang
Total times: 75 minutes
Yield: 1 dozen
Ingredients
- 10 tablespoons/140 grams unsalted butter
- 1/2 cup/105 grams granulated sugar
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 1 teaspoon honey
- 1/4 teaspoon fine sea salt
- 1 large egg/50 grams, at room temperature
- 1 cup/224 grams whole milk
- 2 1/4 cups/270 grams mochiko (sweet rice flour)
Preparation
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees with a rack in the middle.
2. Heat the butter in a small saucepan over medium until just melted, stirring occasionally, 3 to 4 minutes. Pour 6 tablespoons/84 grams of the melted butter into a large bowl and add the sugar, vanilla, honey and salt. Whisk until well blended, then set aside to cool.
3. Meanwhile, brush the remaining 4 tablespoons/56 grams melted butter into the cups of a standard muffin tin to generously and evenly coat.
4. Whisk the egg into the sugar mixture until just blended, then whisk in the milk. While whisking, gradually add the rice flour and whisk until smooth. Divide the batter evenly among the buttered muffin cups (about 1/4 cup/60 grams per cup) and smooth the tops, if necessary. Set the muffin tin on a sheet pan.
5. Bake on the middle rack for 10 minutes, then lower the temperature to 375 degrees and bake until dark golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes more.
6. Let cool in the pan for a few minutes, then lift each cake out with a small offset spatula or very thin paring knife and transfer to a rack to cool slightly. Serve warm. (Because their crust softens overnight, these cakes are best eaten the day they are made.)
Tip
For the most even browning, use an uncoated standard muffin tin.
This article originally appeared in .
