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This Salsa Makes Summer Cooking Easy

Salsa macha. The flavor and texture of a salsa macha is almost like a chile crisp made with toasted Mexican dried chiles, nuts, seeds and herbs. Props styled by Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Food styled by Monica Pierini. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)
Salsa macha. The flavor and texture of a salsa macha is almost like a chile crisp made with toasted Mexican dried chiles, nuts, seeds and herbs. Props styled by Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Food styled by Monica Pierini. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)
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Few sensory pleasures are as satisfying as taking a bite out of something that has been topped with a good salsa macha.

A spicy, peanutty, sour, sometimes-sweet sauce, salsa macha enhances anything it tops with its signature crunch, its slick oil base and its notes of smoke and earth. (In 2020, The New York Times Magazine called it the year’s most valuable condiment.)

The name salsa macha can refer to the feminine form of macho, describing a sauce that demands courage of the eater, or to the Spanish word machacar, which means to pound or crush, alluding to how the ingredients are prepared. And while salsa macha’s popularity on both sides of the border is rather recent, Indigenous people throughout Mexico have ground dried chiles, pumpkin seeds and peanuts into pastes for centuries, and long before olive oil’s arrival in the country.

An essential building block, the oil in salsa macha secures its place among other oil-preserved condiments that arose across the trade routes that radiated out from Spanish-held ports. Think Catalonian romescos and picadas, and Chinese chile crisp. Their emergence seems less like a recipe and more a shared instinct, oil as a vehicle for the ferocious bite of chile and spice. As salsa macha sits, the oil carries the flavor and essence of everything in it. It’ll last as long as the oil stays fresh, evolving in flavor over time. Keep it in the refrigerator, bring it to room temperature before serving and try not to eat it all in one sitting.

There are many variations, but generally, salsa macha is made up of dry chiles, garlic and peanuts, all toasted and ground, along with a hearty amount of oil. Many recipes include seeds like pepitas or sesame, tree nuts, splashes of vinegar, and sugar or dried fruit to round out the subtle bitterness that dried chiles can acquire when over-toasted, something that takes practice to avoid. Though one would be wise to follow a recipe, salsa macha’s history is an invitation to play. Add dried cherries, cacao nibs, vanilla or fermented black soybeans to the mix as some cooks do, and make something specific to your palate.

Salsa macha’s expansiveness is why one jar can do so much. Yes, it works on a quesadilla. But have you ever spooned it over a scoop of vanilla ice cream or a few slices of ripe mango? You can toss it with hot pasta the way you would pesto and top with a dollop of ricotta, or use it to coat ramen noodles paired with ground pork. Or drizzle it over grilled meats or roasted fish. Spoon a generous amount over labneh, hummus or a simple bowl of rice, and yes, over your morning eggs and toast. There’s nothing this salsa won’t improve upon. So make a big jar this summer, and relax, the salsa is already made, and you’re more than halfway to a good meal.

Tostadas campechanas de mariscos (seafood tostadas). There are many variations, but generally, salsa macha is made up of dry chiles, garlic and peanuts, all toasted and ground, along with a hearty amount of oil. Props styled by Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Food styled by Monica Pierini. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)
Tostadas campechanas de mariscos (seafood tostadas). There are many variations, but generally, salsa macha is made up of dry chiles, garlic and peanuts, all toasted and ground, along with a hearty amount of oil. Props styled by Carla Gonzalez-Hart. Food styled by Monica Pierini. (Armando Rafael/The New York Times)

Recipe: Salsa Macha

The flavor and texture of a salsa macha is almost like a chile crisp made with toasted Mexican dried chiles, nuts, seeds and herbs. This salsa lasts for months in the refrigerator and is great over eggs, fish, vegetables or anything that is mild in flavor or lean that could benefit from a rich punch.

By Rick A. Martínez

Yield: 2 cups

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
  • 5 garlic cloves, peeled
  • 1 cup mixed roasted nuts, such as peanuts, pecans and almonds (salted is fine)
  • 78 grams ancho chiles (about 5 large), stemmed and seeded
  • 7 large chiles de árbol, stemmed
  • 2 tablespoons raw sesame seeds
  • 2 dried bay leaves, crumbled
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano, preferably Mexican
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)

Preparation:

1. Heat the oil, garlic and nuts in a large saucepan over medium until the garlic is golden brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the garlic and nuts to a heatproof bowl to cool.

2. Add the chiles to the pan with the oil. Cook over medium heat, stirring and flipping the chiles, until the oil is slightly reddish and the chiles are brick-red in color, about 30 seconds. Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the chiles to the nut mixture; let cool for 5 minutes.

3. While the nuts are cooling, add the seeds to the hot oil and set aside; they will toast as they sit. Purée the chile mixture with the bay leaves, oregano and salt in a food processor until coarsely ground. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the seed-and-oil mixture until the chiles are finely ground.

Tip: The salsa can be stored in an airtight container, refrigerated, for up to several months.

This article originally appeared in .

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