Food writers love the funky little places that turn out fine food at wallet-friendly prices.
I happen to be a Thai food junkie. Point me toward satay, lemongrass anything or, in the case of Bobby Lam’s Chef’s Noodle House, a piping hot Spicy Bangkok Shrimp Pot ($9.50), and I’m as close to heaven as I need to get without really being there.
Situated near the intersection of East Sixth Avenue and Havana in Aurora, this charming eatery is housed in a converted Taco Bell, with comfortable seating for about 30. Appetizers ($3-$4.25) include such traditional offerings as soft and fried egg rolls, dumplings and a sesame chicken roll. Shanghai wonton and Thai hot and sour ($3) are the only two soups.
Entrees are drawn from Chinese, Thai and Vietnamese tradition, with a nod to Japanese noodles.
On a recent evening, shared orders of Mongolian Beef ($8.95), Thai Rice Noodles ($7.97) and that fabulous shrimp pot was plenty for three people.
Fork-tender wok-seared strips of beef, tossed with onion, scallions and water chestnuts in a slightly garlicky brown sauce, served on an oversized square plate, were luscious.
A condiment tray of ginger soy, garlic sauce, hot chiles and sweet and sour sauce is available to those who want to spice up their food.
It should be noted that in addition to being nutso about Thai food, for me, bean thread noodles – alternately known as “cellophane,” “glass” or “clear noodles” – are also major faves. So this steaming combo of shrimp, yellow peppers, snow peas, mushroom, celery and green onions atop a mound of cellophane noodles was the perfect end to a very trying work day.
The shrimp dish is served in a four-legged iron pot balanced on a wood trivet, along with a generous bowl of jasmine rice tossed with egg. I ate it Asian style, placing a little bit of shrimp and veggies in the rice bowl and scooping it up with a fork.
We struck up a conversation with Steve, a restaurant regular from the neighborhood, who managed his chopsticks quite well. He had the vegetarian “chicken ($8.50),” stir-fried soy-based mock chicken tossed with a mélange of vegetables folded into an oyster-basil sauce. He pronounced it his favorite dish, admitting that each time he comes to chef Lam’s restaurant he’s determined to try something new, but falls back into the same dish. It’s easy to understand why. This is good, superbly simple food, thoughtfully prepared and worthy of many return visits.
Chef’s Noodle house serves only soft drinks. If you live in the area and place an order of $15 or more, delivery is free although there is a 50-cent charge if you pay by credit card.
Chef’s Noodle House
ASIAN|10400 E. Sixth Ave, Aurora, 303-363-6888|$3-$9.50|11 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday-SaturdayThursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. Visa, MC; off-street parking.
Front burner: Generous portions of Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese and vegetarian dishes nicely presented. Cozy neighborhood feel.
Back burner: Fried dumplings were more dough than filling.
