The Ute and Arapaho Indians were firm believers in the healing qualities of hot springs, referring to the waters as “big medicine” for mind, body and spirit. They bathed themselves, their horses and dogs, children and women in the “magic waters” – in that order.
Today’s hot springs have no trace of past herds – human, canine or equine. The mineral waters flow constantly through fissures in the earth’s surface, heated by volcanic rock 35,000 feet below. In the many hot springs in Colorado, minerals such as sodium, sulfate, chloride, silica, potassium, calcium, fluoride, magnesium, arsenic and lithium, have been noted, all of which are therapeutic for the body, inside and out.
Colorado is fortunate to have close to two dozen hot springs in the state. Here are some that offer lodging as well as soaking.
THE SPRINGS RESORT in Pagosa Springs, at the foot of Wolf Creek Pass in southwestern Colorado, has to be one of the most eye-catching in the state. Terracing waterfalls supply 16 temperature-controlled pools (a 17th will open in spring) from one of the world’s largest and deepest hot mineral springs, the Great Pagosa Aquifer.
Though the soaking pools’ names give a clue to the temperature of the water, ranging from 83 to 114 degrees, thermometer readings help guests make their choice before stepping into the immaculate tile-lined pools. (Each pool is drained and scrubbed three times a week.) Stone walkways between pools are heated by hot spring water, so guests can cross the resort’s sunken bridge across Golden Pond, where Koi fish thrive, to reach The Cliffs pool, perched on the bank above the pond.
Guests at The Springs Resort hotel have use of the pools 24 hours a day. Standard, deluxe and grand suite accommodations are offered. A massage therapy studio offers a comprehensive menu of services, and a salon is available for hair, skin and nail treatments.
Holiday season rates at the hotel range from $119 to $189 a night/double occupancy.
Admission to the pools for non-hotel guests costs $13 weekdays, $15 weekends; $5 for children 4 to 7.
HOT SULPHUR SPRINGS RESORT & SPA, in the quaint town of Hot Sulphur Springs, is a newly remodeled vision of its former self. The resort west of Granby has the distinction of having operated continuously for 140 years. After its extensive renovation in 1997, the Ute Indian tribal spiritual leader blessed the waters of the resort’s seven natural springs.
Tucked into the walls of Byers Canyon, Hot Sulphur Springs boasts 22 pools and private baths, both indoors and out. A solarium pool, therapy area and summer swimming pool give guests a wide range of relaxation. The temperature in each of the pools is controlled – from 95 to 112 degrees.
A salon offers massages and body treatments, manicures, pedicures and facials.
Lodging is in no-frills motel rooms: no television, no telephone.
Pool admission is $14.50 for adults, $11.50 for children under 16. The lodging rate is $98 double occupancy.
STRAWBERRY PARK NATURAL HOT SPRINGS, outside Steamboat Springs, is as much a stunning botanical garden as a mineral spring. The property, so named because strawberries used to be harvested there, is in a class of its own, with five waterfalls on rocky pools in a lush setting. A special feature is a private pool in which a couple can float side by side as they receive a Watsu water massage.
Ever spend the night in a train caboose? The one at Strawberry Park sleeps the two of you, has a kitchenette, a gas fireplace and bath with shower. Also, there are one-and two-story cabins, and, in summer, guests can stay in a covered wagon. Sleeping in the caboose costs $110, double occupancy; cabins start at $60 for two people.
Taking a dip in the pools costs $10 for adults, $5 for teens and $3 for children 12 and under. After dark, clothing is optional.
JOYFUL JOURNEY HOT SPRINGS, in southern Colorado’s San Luis Valley, commands a view of the entire Sangre de Cristo mountain range. This artesian hot spring offers 98-108-degree water in a choice of tiled pools: the neck-deep tower pool or waist-deep soaking pool.
Minerals in Joyful Journey’s waters include boron, said to benefit brain function, fortify the immune system and strengthen bones and joints.
Lodging at Joyful Journey is in a Mongolian yurt village; each rents for $85, double occupancy. There’s also a separate RV park.
Pool admission is $12 for adults; $8 for children 4-12. Open every day but Wednesday.
INDIAN SPRINGS RESORT, in Idaho Springs west of Denver, was known as the Saratoga of the Rockies 100 years ago. Its lodge is built atop the steaming springs, and it attracted visitors such as Frank and Jesse James, the Vanderbilts and Roosevelts. Today, it’s frequented by locals and Denverites, as it’s the closest such spa to the city.
The resort offers a smorgasbord of soaking options – in caves, outdoor hot tubs, private baths (rented by the hour), or a full-size swimming pool accented with tropical plants. There’s even a Club Mud for full-body mud wraps. Mineral bath/pool prices range from $12 to $22.
One of the most extensive massage and body treatment menus is available there; each service is priced separately.
Rooms in the historic lodge start at $59, or $74 in the inn. A full-service restaurant is on premises.
Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who lives in Howard.
If you go
The Springs Resort in Pagosa Springs is 272 miles southwest of Denver via U.S. 285 into the San Luis Valley, then west on U.S. 160. Information or reservations: 800-225-0934, www.pagosahotsprings.com.
Hot Sulphur Springs Resort is a 1-hour, 45-minute drive northwest of Denver via I-70 and U.S. 40. 800-510-6235, www.hotsulphursprings.com.
Strawberry Park Hot Springs is 7 miles north of Steamboat Springs, which is 166 miles northwest of Denver, via I-70 and U.S. 40. 970-879-0342, www.strawberryhotsprings.com.
Joyful Journey Hot Springs is in Moffat, 170 miles southwest of Denver, via U.S. 285 into the San Luis Valley, then south on Colorado 17. 719-256-4328, www.joyfuljourneyhotsprings.com.
Indian Springs Resort is in Idaho Springs 40 miles west of Denver via I-70. 303-989-6666, www.indianspringsresort.com.
