Who’s to say which area of Colorado is more stunning in fall? Beauty, in the eyes of the beholder, assumes an individual criterion.
The Crystal Valley, from Carbondale to Redstone, Marble and Crystal City, is a personal favorite. Here, in the shadow of the Mount Sopris monolith, the world is a mosaic of golden aspen and rich evergreens, while screaming orange cottonwoods line the river banks. Not to be outdone, Gambel’s oakbrush blankets the meadows and hillsides in red, orange and russet, creating a captivating tapestry only Mother Nature can weave.
Farther up valley, over McClure, then Kebler passes, you will find one of the largest contiguous aspen stands anywhere.
For some, this part of Colorado is off the beaten path. Many people drive the straight and true Colorado 82 from Glenwood Springs to Aspen. But, when you turn west on Colorado 133 at Carbondale, you enter the gateway to the Crystal Valley.
Between Carbondale and Redstone, the largest broodfish hatchery in Colorado welcomes visitors. Spawning season has begun at the Crystal River Hatchery, and you can stroll the grounds, feed the fish, watch the spawning operation, and learn as much as you want to know about the place that averages more than 14 million rainbow trout eggs each year, stocking waters across the state.
The village of Redstone is naturally picturesque, and is a photographer’s dream in fall.
Although Redstone is most famous for its namesake castle, the village has developed its own identity with art galleries, artisans’ studios, boutiques, restaurants and quaint lodges. Folks enjoy casual breakfasts and lunches at the Pie Plate Cafe, and relaxing lunches and dinners at the Crystal Club Cafe, where bighorn sheep frequent the meadow outside the deck. Year-round population in this quiet mountain town still hovers below 100.
When coal baron John Cleveland Osgood built his 42-room estate in 1902, he also built cottages for his miners. Many of these cottages line the streets of Redstone today.
Osgood’s stately, elegant Redstone Castle is the setting for many weddings and company retreats and conferences. Guided tours are conducted Thursday through Monday, with a Wednesday wine-and-cheese tour presented at twilight.
Unless you’re looking for the town of Marble, you may miss the turnoff from Colorado 133 to Road 3. This sleepy site, named for the marble quarries outside town, has played a role in history. The marble here produced the building blocks for the Lincoln Memorial and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, among other monuments.
You can drive to the Yule quarry; the road is a 4-mile stretch from town, but don’t attempt this excursion in winter.
At one time home to thousands, many of whom worked the quarry and the finishing mill, Marble now counts only a couple hundred people in the area.
Maps outlining a self-guided walking tour are available at the handful of businesses in town. You’ll be directed to the Old Mill Site, once the world’s largest marble finishing mill, which was serviced by a railroad line. Many of the mill’s old columns still stand. It’s possible to walk the length of the site.
Your walking tour also will direct you to the Marble Historical Society Museum, the town’s one and only church, and several historic buildings.
Most aspen trees in Colorado turn a brilliant gold. In Marble, there are stands that turn a flaming red. This is attributed to genetics in nature, as the same trees turn the same color every year. The gold and red stands set against the dark evergreens create an image to carry with you all winter.
Until now, the family sedan would have performed admirably; if you want to venture about 8 miles farther to the ghost town of Crystal and the site of the Crystal Mill, you will need a high-clearance 4-wheel-drive vehicle. The Crystal Mill is said to be the most photographed site in Colorado, capturing the history and natural beauty in one glance.
Beyond Crystal is Schofield Pass, considered one of the most challenging roads. It is strongly recommended that you not drive this road even in the most trusty 4-wheeler.
A better way to see the Marble area is on horseback. Rides are offered by the area’s only outfitter, Outwest Guides.
Return to Colorado 133 for the drive southwest over McClure Pass. After passing Paonia State Park, watch for the road to Kebler Pass. It’s here where you’ll be enveloped in miles of aspens.
Continue over Kebler Pass to Crested Butte, or return through the Crystal Valley, Redstone and Carbondale.
Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who lives in Howard.
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If you go
Carbondale, and the gateway to the Crystal Valley, is about 165 miles west of Denver via Interstate 70 to Glenwood Springs, and south on Colorado 82 to Colorado 133.
For information on the Carbondale area, call 970-963-1890 or go to www.carbondale.com. For informtion on the Redstone area, call 970-963-1890 or go to www.red
stonecolorado.com. For information on Marble, go to www.marblecolo
rado.org.
Tours of the Redstone Castle cost $12 for adults and $6 for children under 12; the Wednesday wine and cheese twilight tour costs $22. Reservations are taken at 970-963-2526.
For horseback riding reservations, call Outwest Guides at 970-963-5525.
