“Friendly” is a quality ascribed to places by those who are paid to promote them, yet that’s the first word that comes to mind when I think about Park City and Utah in general.
It started at the airport. Arriving after a short flight, about an hour and a half, from Los Angeles, I was unsure where the shuttle to Park City departed. In a town that has its own free shuttle, it seemed silly to spend the extra money on a rental car. Sure enough, within a few minutes, the shuttle driver popped his head in and asked, “Who’s going to Park City?” There were four of us, three from the West Coast, one from Texas.
And, here’s the thing: You can certainly buy a canned smile, and even a happy tone in someone’s voice, but all of us world-weary travelers are bound to know the difference. This guy was genuinely happy that we were here. He enjoyed filling us in on the nuances of the Wasatch Mountains, the improvements brought by the 2002 Winter Olympics, even the drought that’s affected Utah for the last seven years. By the time we arrived at the Marriott Mountainside Resort, I’d found that his smile was contagious. All of us in the van seemed like old friends, and as I wished them well, one off to a newly purchased condominium, others traveling farther a field to the much-heralded Stein Erickson Lodge outside of town, I knew this would be a happy adventure.
In fact, it seems that Park City has been making more than a few visitors smile since it became incorporated as a city in 1884. In the late 1860s, Scots, Chinese, Irish and Welsh, among others, descended on the town, looking to make their fortunes from the rich silver veins discovered there.
From the $400-million take, 23 miners had their millionaire dreams come true, including George Hearst, father of newspaper magnate and inspiration for the classic film “Citizen Kane,” William Randolph Hearst. Later during Prohibition, those in Salt Lake City, the spiritual center of the Mormon religion, who wanted to sneak off for some bathtub gin would head to the small mountain village to imbibe.
Sadly, as the years went by, the silver and bathtub gin both gone dry, Park City fell on hard times, and its turnaround is as tied to a former A-list actor, as his Sundance Institute is tied to his character’s name in the movie, “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.” It’s true that Robert Redford is visionary, and you just have to hand it to him for rediscovering Park City a few decades before the rest of us knew that Utah was on the map.
His vision in 1980 was to take a failed ski resort, several canyons over from Park City, and transform it into a film workshop for rebels who wanted to function creatively outside the parameters of Hollywood. Now, the Sundance Institute has been overshadowed by January’s Sundance Film Festival in Park City, as one of the premier events in the film world. Film world aside, the effect has been to create a year-round resort, similar to Aspen, although the 7,000 residents would be loath to make such a comparison.
Of course, after the 2002 Winter Olympics, this small yet energetic city, about an hour from the international airport in Salt Lake, is definitely on the tourism radar screen. And it’s no wonder. Nestled in the Wasatch Mountains, some 31 miles east of Salt Lake City, this is high, dry country, perfect for a few days of summer vacationing.
So, what can you do in Park City during the summer months? Let’s take a look.
MOUNTAIN BIKING AND HIKING
With 300 miles in 75 trails, perfect for mountain biking and its less strenuous, old-fashioned cousin, hiking, Park City is a summer magnet for those wishing to scratch a two-wheeled itch. Whether you own your own Diamondback D3, or want to rent for the first time, there’s plenty to do on the trails around the old mining town. In fact, the brand-new Park City Cycling Festival will be held from Thursday, Aug. 12, through Sunday, Aug.
22. For information, call (435) 640-8144 or www.parkcitycyclingfest.com.
In fact, because of concerted efforts by the town and the Mountain Trails Foundation, over the last 10 years, trails now link Park City, the four major mountain resorts, public lands, private developments, rivers and reservoirs. In addition to the festival, you might want to check out the Trail Run & Group Bike Ride series, which is free and sponsored by the Mountain Trails Foundation, or the Tour Des Suds, on Sept. 18, a seven-mile hill climb from City Park to Guardsman Pass that will make you ready for the beer and lunch, served after the race. Last year, some 270 riders entered the event. For information on both events, call (435) 649-6839 or mountaintrails.org.
RESTAURANTS
As I said, one of the features that drew me to Park City was not having to rent a car. Every 20 minutes, you can ride from Main Street, to Park City Mountain, to Lower Deer Valley, and visit other neighborhoods as well. I’d also suggest riding the trolley along Main Street, but with so little ground to cover, and so many interesting shops and restaurants, why not take the slow way!
For example, I enjoyed morning coffee and a nice muffin at the Alpine Internet CafeD on Main Street, (435) 649-0051, about a minute walk from my room. It’s also a great place to catch up on town gossip, which can range from, again, the drought, to best fishing spots on the Provo, to free events in town.
For much more serious dining, walk down the street to Zoom, (435) 649-9108, which is owned by Robert Redford and features many of the actor’s personal photographs on its walls. The feeling here is casual, but with a buzz, and the food ranges from interesting sandwiches and salads for lunch, to hearty dinner fare, served with a Sundance flair. It’s pricey, at around $15 per person without wine, but worth it.
If you’re looking for inexpensive, but tasty, Mexican food, try La Casita, (435-645-9585), which is on the Summit Watch Plaza, close to the Marriott Summit Watch’s swimming pool. You can order take-out and then find an open spot in which to enjoy it. And a good, medium-priced restaurant for Thai food is Bangkok Thai (435-649-8424), located down the stairs of one of the historic buildings in town. Again, it’s right on Main Street and draws quite a dinner crowd.
Drinking in Utah is based on the club system, which means that you have to be a member to have a drink at any bar in the state. Not to worry, becoming a member usually costs around $4 and is factored into your first drink. If you want to quaff a local brew, try Polygamy Porter at the Wasatch Brew Pub, or, for that matter, just walk into one of the many taverns that line Main Street. Another friendly spot is J.B. Mulligan’s, also on Main.
LODGING
Whatever way you like to stay, Park City offers it. There are several high-end hotels, notably the Stein Erickson Lodge in Deer Valley outside of town, loads of bed-and-breakfasts, condos galore as well as condo hotels.
For example, the Washington School Inn, a B&B just off Main Street, boasts that you can “stay with someone who has cycled across the United States and has a garage full of tools,” (800) 824-1672.
I chose Marriott’s Summit Watch Resort, a condo hotel, because it is one block in from Main Street, about a two-minute walk from the town ski lift. I don’t know about you, but when I travel I like to have the option of eating dinner in at least several nights in a new city. For one thing, it gives me the opportunity to explore the market. Nothing tells you faster about a new place than its supermarket. Second, eating a few dinners in — or even several breakfasts — helps to keep the bills down at the end of the week.
Also, this condo hotel has one very special amenity: the indoor-outdoor pool. Surrounded by hot tubs on one side, the outdoor section of the pool is perfect for evening swimming, as it’s open until 10 p.m. Marriott’s Summit Watch Resort, $129-$200 per night, (800) 344-2460, www.vacationclub.com.
FESTIVALS
Finally, in this age of go-go-go, is it PC to say you could just go to Park City to hang out? If you’re in the vicinity the first weekend in August, for example, check out the Park City Arts Festival. Now in its 35th year, the event uses Main Street as a backdrop to showcase the work of some 200 painters, ceramicists and furniture makers. Last year drew 80,000 visitors, so be sure to book a room early, if you want to attend.
And if you enjoy your music al fresco, be at the bottom of Main Street, 890 Main, Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 5:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m., June 25-Aug. 21. That’s when Mountain Town Stages presents artists playing a variety of musical styles — for free. For the complete schedule, check out www.mountaintownstages.com.
Leave some time to enjoy the ongoing film series that’s free Friday nights in City Park. The Sundance Institute will offer lots of “indie” films throughout the summer, so bring along a picnic and enjoy the show, www.parkcityfilmseries.com.
