Cayman Brac – When Christopher Columbus saw the generally flat and low-lying Cayman Islands in 1503, it no doubt was the island of Cayman Brac that he sighted first. Its most distinguishing feature is “The Bluff,” a limestone crag that rises 140 feet above the Caribbean Sea at the eastern tip of this island. “Brac” is a Gaelic word for “crag,” hence the island’s name.
Cayman Brac – already well-known for its excellent diving opportunities – is being promoted as an all-around ecotourism destination, and The Bluff is part of the attraction. It provides a challenge to rock climbers and hikers, and nature-lovers will want to visit the protected Cayman Parrot Preserve at the top.
The bluff also is pockmarked with numerous caves housing thousands of bats, an important component of the island’s fragile ecosystem. In addition, the caves play an important role as shelters for island residents during hurricane season.
“Brackers,” as they are called, traditionally have sought sanctuary in these pockets in the limestone.
Cayman Brac was fortunate to have survived Hurricane Ivan with minimal damage, unlike its more populated and developed “Sister Island,” Grand Cayman, where the storm destroyed 70 percent of the buildings, including most tourist facilities. They gradually are reopening.
But weather reports showed Ivan, a Category Five storm, as heading straight for Cayman Brac and the third of the Sister Islands, Little Cayman. The forecast led locals to seek shelter from Ivan in the caves. Among them was Tenson Scott, 68, a retired Spot Bay seaman, and his wife, Starrie, who headed to Peter’s Cave on the eastern end of the island.
“It’s the safest place in the Brac to be,” Tenson said. “Even if Ivan had come here, he couldn’t touch the people in the caves.”
Scott said there were about 40 people, including a half-dozen children, holed up in Peter’s Cave. He and Starrie entered the cave through a wooden stairway that ascends about 60 feet up the side of The Bluff on Sept. 10 and emerged two days later after Ivan had passed. Corned beef, sandwiches, biscuits and canned tuna provided sustenance.
Cayman Chief Minister McKeeva Bush said that diving destinations off the smaller islands appear to have actually been enhanced by the storm.
“For many of our repeat divers, nature has given us a lot of new experiences to discover,” he said. The storm cleared out algae and created new swim-through areas in underwater walls, he added.
Both Cayman Brac and Little Cayman are ranked among the best dive locations in the world by readers of Scuba Diving magazine. Excellent visibility, abundant sea life – including sharks, turtles, rays and coral – and a water temperature of about 85 degrees in winter are all part of the appeal.
Air service to the smaller islands generally includes a transfer on Grand Cayman. Despite the storm’s devastating hit on the big island, the airport there has been reopened and is fully operational.
Cayman Brac has a population of under 1,300 on an island about 12 miles by 2 miles. Little Cayman is smaller, with under 170 residents on a 10-mile-by-1-mile island, adding to the feeling of remoteness treasured by many vacationers.
The details
Getting there: Cayman Airways has nonstop flights to Grand Cayman from Chicago, Houston, Tampa, Miami, Fort Lauderdale, Fla., and (beginning Friday) Boston. Flights leave four times a day between Grand Cayman and Cayman Brac. The airline operates Saturday flights between Miami and Cayman Brac. Visit or call 800-422- 9626. Information:
