Mazatlan, Mexico – Is it time to give Mazatlan another chance? Once one of the top Mexico destinations for American tourists, Mazatlan now is sometimes called the forgotten resort. Many vacationers choose glitzier resorts such as Cancun, Ixtapa and Cabo San Lucas.
Mazatlan contributed to its own tourism decline by failing to update its attractions and neglecting to keep the city clean. The Malecon, the celebrated 14-mile-long beachfront walkway, had suffered the ravages of time, elements and salt spray, and was cracked and broken. The famous downtown food market, the Mercado, had become dirty and foul-smelling. Many vacationers who had bad experiences in the city were reluctant to return, but city officials and business and cultural leaders have worked hard to win back tourist dollars. They have succeeded on many fronts.
Visitors notice the first change immediately upon disembarking from their flight. The remodeled modern airport is spotless, and the hordes of time-share salesmen who previously descended on arriving visitors have been banished.
Most of the hotels in the Zona Dorado, or Golden Zone, have been there for years, and many have been renovated. The largest and best known are El Cid, Playa Mazatlan and Costa de Oro. Some of the smaller hotels, such as the Inn at Mazatlan and Royal Villas, cater to time-share owners and regulars who come year after year.
Mega-resorts have opened on either end of the city. On the south the sparkling Estrella del Mar rivals any other luxury hotel in Mexico. A highly rated Robert Trent Jones golf course tempts golfers, and more than 3 miles of quiet beaches welcome sun-lovers. North of the city is Pueblo Bonito Emerald Bay, another high-end resort. Both hotels offer free shuttle service into the city, although a rental car is more convenient.
Renovation of the historic Malecon is nearing completion. It is now an attractive walkway adorned with colorful stonework, benches and monuments. With the waves of the Pacific as a backdrop, visitors can enjoy a brisk morning walk or run for as long as they wish to continue before hailing a taxi or pulmonia (similar but larger than a golf cart) to proceed downtown or return to their hotel. If downtown is the destination, a visit to the Mercado should be part of the tour.
The Mercado, in a large old building, offers shoppers an excellent selection of food items including tropical fruits, fresh vegetables, meat, fish and, of course, shrimp. A jumbo avocado can be purchased for a quarter, small Mexican oranges go for about 50 cents per pound, and a bag of 20 limes costs $1. Enough shrimp to prepare a delightful dinner for two can be had for about $6. A baseball-sized hunk of mild Oaxaca cheese is only about $3.
Part of Mazatlan’s charm is that it is more than a tourist destination – it is a 200-year-old city. It is a large exporter of shrimp, which grow abundantly offshore. Vendors walking beaches in front of hotels sell them out of buckets each morning.
A modern Pacifico brewery is in the downtown area. At the end of the brewery tour visitors are taken to a lounge on the top floor to sample beer and take in a panoramic view of the city.
In the Golden Zone, where most of the resort hotels are located, a visitor can lounge at the pool, take a long stroll on miles of golden sand beach, go for a swim in the azure Pacific, then walk outside through the open-air lobby of the hotel and immediately be on a busy Mexican street. Directly on or just off the main street, Avenue Camaron Sabalo, are numerous restaurants, small markets, pharmacies and sellers of any imaginable Mexican product.
Several small islands sit a few miles offshore and boats can be hired to take groups to the islands for a few hours of snorkeling or exploration. All types of watersport equipment is available for rent. Parasailing and kayaking are popular diversions.
There are many small beach-side restaurants and bars in the Golden Zone where a margarita and fajitas can be enjoyed, and night life is plentiful. Seor Frog’s, a bar and restaurant that originated in Mazatlan and now can be found in many Mexican locations, features decent food, loud music and dancing. Serious partyers head for the Bora Bora Bar and Beach Club, a huge open-air nightclub where the action begins at midnight and winds down about 4 a.m.
Mazatlan also has a winter league baseball team, Los Venados, the Deer, so called because Mazatlan translates to “land of the deer.”
Pre-Hispanic artifacts are exhibited at the Archaeology Museum in a restored 19th-century building. The Modern Art Museum is housed in the Casa de la Cultura and features exhibits by famous Hispanic artists. Other cultural opportunities include the Municipal Art Center and the Casa Machado, exhibiting centuries-old handmade furniture.
The Mazatlan Cultural Festival, begun in 1994, sponsors an event most evenings from Nov. 1 to Dec. 20. Most performances take place in the Angela Peralta Theater, built in the 1870s and restored in 1992. Ballet, big-band concerts, folk dancing, jazz, opera and plays all are presented.
The Mazatlan Carnaval, Mazatlan’s version of Mardi Gras, has taken place most years since 1898 in the week preceding Ash Wednesday.
Years ago, before traveling to a Mexican resort for the first time, I recall our travel agent telling my wife and me that Mazatlan was in decline and was not a good choice for our initial trip south of the border. Perhaps that was good advice then, but not now. This old city is new again.
Gerald Miller is a freelance writer who lives in Pueblo.
The details
Getting there: Frontier Airlines has daily nonstop service from Denver. America West flights stop in Phoenix. Continental flights stopover in Houston. Shuttle service to the Golden Zone hotels is about $8 per person.
Where to stay: Royal Villas Resort, 800-898-3564, 125 rooms, most with ocean view. All have been redecorated recently and have a small kitchen. The attentive staff is a definite plus. There is a moderately priced restaurant with excellent seafood. Rates from $99.
Playa Mazatlan: 800-762-5816, 425 rooms. Established in 1955, Playa Mazatlan has kept up its maintenance. The grounds are nicely landscaped with palm trees and gardens. There is a restaurant and beach-side snack bar on-site. From $102 garden view.
Estrella Del Mar: 800-967-1889, This is a secluded, tropically landscaped 816-acre gated resort with an 18-hole golf course. The disadvantage is that it’s 20-30 minutes from downtown Mazatlan and the Golden Zone. There are 27 hotel rooms from $107 and 16 condos from $190. Phase II of construction will begin soon.
Information: Two of the better websites about the area are and
