Many people who have ridden the historic train from Durango to Silverton in summer prefer its counterpart from Durango to Cascade Canyon in winter.
Both trips travel the narrow-gauge railroad tracks deep into the San Juan National Forest, tracing the route of the rushing Animas River. Both ride behind coal-fired, steam-powered vintage locomotives. But, it’s on the winter train that the plumes of steam crystallize in the cold, dry air and resemble veils of sparkling jewels. Undisturbed blankets of snow cover the backcountry landscape; the river peeks through an icy glaze, and a journey into the white wilderness is unforgettable.
Everything about the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad is historic. Though the winter train travels only to a point called Cascade Canyon, 26 miles north of Durango (the summer trip to Silverton is 45 miles), travelers will ride on tracks laid in 1882, behind a 75-year-old locomotive fitted with its own snowplow. This is the same route that $300 million of gold and silver ore traveled from the mines near Silverton to Durango and other points years ago.
At one point, the train will execute the twists and turns of track laid on a narrow shelf blasted out of a granite cliff 121 years ago. Though the track rests securely on the shelf, the wider train cars overhang the cliff, with the Animas River 400 feet below. For this dramatic and photogenic section of the trip, the engineer slows the train, allowing riders to take photographs or video.
The winter train departs the Durango depot at noon every day. Each coach is heated and has its own restroom. For an extra fee, riders can choose a historic, first-class parlor car.
It takes two hours to travel the 26 drop-dead gorgeous miles to Cascade Canyon. There, in a large, sheltered pavilion with a natural river-rock fireplace, riders can enjoy wine, cheese, beer and cider while spending the hour exploring the area, taking a short hike in the snowy forest or watching the Animas River serpentine its way through icy obstacles. (The beverages mentioned above are served on trips through Christmas Eve; cookies and hot chocolate are served through the winter and early spring.) More substantial lunch or snack items can be purchased on the train.
While riders are in the pavilion or out touring at Cascade Canyon, the train performs its turnaround trick on an auxiliary track spur, called the Wye.
Returning down the canyon is no less spectacular. The late-day, low winter light casting pink and yellow hues over the snowy valley reflects inside the coach.
The train pulls into Durango a little after 5 p.m., giving riders time to browse through the depot gift shop, which includes every memento a train buff could want.
The train ticket can be used for admission to the adjacent D&SNG Railroad Museum. Visitors will learn about movies the train has starred in, including “Around the World in 80 Days,” “How the West Was Won” and “Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.”
As the museum is part of a working roundhouse, eight sets of track leading from the turntable are used to display full-size locomotives and a caboose, which are open for visitors to climb on, in and explore.
Original railroad paintings, historic photographs and antique railroad lamps also are displayed, as well as private cars, such as the Butch Cassidy Car, where railroad videos are shown.
Next door is the massive railroad yard, where maintenance is conducted on the numerous locomotives and coach and gondola cars. A tour of the working roundhouse, machine shop and railroad yard is offered at 10 a.m. each day before the winter train’s departure for an additional $5.
The winter train begins its daily trips the day before Thanksgiving, Nov. 26, running through Christmas Eve day, Dec. 24. Coach car tickets cost $54 for adults; $27 for children 5 through 11. (There is no train on Christmas Day.) From Dec. 26 through May 7, tickets cost $45 for adults; $22.50 for children. Cascade Canyon refreshments are included in the ticket price. All trips are wheelchair accessible.
From Jan. 4 through March 9, trips are offered from Wednesday through Saturday only.
Passengers in the first-class parlor car ($89) receive complimentary non-alcoholic beverages throughout the trip, croissants and champagne on departure, as well as the reception at Cascade Canyon.
New Year’s Eve can be celebrated in the railroad’s private parlor cars, departing Durango at 8 p.m.Festivities will begin with a reception in the railroad museum, followed by champagne toasts upon departure, a live band en route and a cash bar. Tickets are $125 (adults only); reserve early for this popular New Year’s Eve event.
Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who lives in Howard.
—————————————-
If you go
Durango is 330 miles southwest of Denver via U.S. 285 into the San Luis Valley, then west via U.S. 160. Air service from Denver to Durango also is available.
For more information, or to make reservations for the winter train, call 888-872-4607. Online reservations may be made a week in advance at www.durangotrain.com.
