Not every nordic center offers the comforts of home alongside its rentals of snow sports equipment. But, the new Piney Creek Nordic Center, at the foot of Ski Cooper, breaks the mold.
Looking very much like the Belvedere 10th Mountain Hut, after which it was designed, the 1,600-square-foot log structure outshines its alpine counterpart a stone’s throw away. Rustic logs frame the A-frame-
like exterior, but inside beetle-kill pine decorates the 25-foot-high walls with unique blue-gray streaks. Skiers gravitate to the fireplace; families climb to the 800-square-foot balcony that’s filled with couches, easy chairs and bean-bag loungers for the kids.
Ty and Roxanne Hall designed the center. While Ty takes care of skiers’ needs, renting cross-country and telemark skis and snowshoes, Roxanne whips up her secret recipe of whole-grain spice cookies with white chocolate chips, nuts and cranberries. Hot chocolate, cider, even beer and wine are served. But, the source of pride has to be the building’s indoor plumbing, a commodity that was sorely lacking in the area’s old nordic center.
Picture windows show off the views to the west, including the Mount of the Holy Cross. If you prefer, soak up the sun and surrounding views from picnic tables on the center’s expansive deck.
The 25-kilometer trail system outside the nordic center is maintained and groomed for novice, intermediate and advanced skiers. Returning skiers and snowshoers will find the trails widened to between 12 and 14 feet. Terrain extends through the forest and down a slope into an open valley.
Private and group lessons are offered to every level of skier, and clinics are popular and fill quickly. The next telemark clinic is scheduled for March 6.
Those who enjoy skiing or snowshoeing with their dogs will be happy to learn that pooches are welcome on the trail system. This privilege is not available at many nordic centers. Of course, dogs have to be leashed to hitching posts while their owners are inside.
One of the intermediate ski trails leads from the nordic center to the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse, a canvas yurt in which gourmet dinners are served nightly and lunches on weekends.
The mile-long trail to the cookhouse can be skied, hiked, trekked on snowshoes, or for those unable to navigate under their own power, via snowmobile (for dinners only).
As part of the $60 dinner price, you’re outfitted with skinny skis or snowshoes, and head lamps. Be ready to set out at 5:30 p.m.; a group guide will break trail, so you don’t lose your way. The route gains about 300 feet in elevation, taking you to 11,000 feet.
The tranquil trail is away from the hustle and bustle of the alpine ski area. The wildlife prefer this section of the mountain; look for deer, elk, fox and rabbit, especially at dusk. As you approach the cookhouse, the light within the yurt is a welcoming beacon.
Looking like a small circus tent, the 700-square-foot yurt is warm and comfortable. An 1880s U.S. Army-issue wood stove stands prominently inside, heating the dining room almost too well. For this reason, dress in layers. Tables, chairs and buffets date 100 years. The interior decor borrows from the Himalayas, with art and photos of Mount Everest filling the walls.
Two fourteeners, Mount Massive and Mount Elbert, are visible from the outside deck. You may catch a glimpse before the four-course dinner, but the weekend lunch bunch gets treated to the full panorama.
When you learn the challenges facing the chefs at the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse, you will appreciate even more the extraordinary cuisine. The yurt has no electricity; food is prepared at the nordic center, and finishing touches are prepared on the yurt’s wood-cooking stove.
Dinners are offered nightly, through April 18. Easter Sunday, March 27, will be the season’s last weekend lunch. The yurt can seat 38 guests. Dinners cost $60, excluding taxes, gratuities and alcohol. Lunches cost between $5 and $15.
Your return trip is a quiet trek or ski down the trail. Take time to turn off your headlamp and drink in the nighttime forest. If you choose to take a snowmobile up to the yurt, you’ll be chauffeured back to the nordic-center base.
Lillian Ross is a freelance writer who lives in Howard.
The details
The Piney Creek Nordic Center is about 115 miles west of Denver. Take Interstate 70 to the Copper Mountain/Leadville exit 185, then go south on Colorado 91 to Leadville, and north on U.S. 24 the final 12 miles to the summit of Tennessee Pass and the entrance to Ski Cooper.
For information about cross-country skiing or snowshoeing, call the Piney Creek Nordic Center at 719-486-1750.
To make reservations for dinner or lunch at the Tennessee Pass Cookhouse, call 719-486-8114.
