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It’s been revered and reviled, dressed down to its naked essence without the bun and dressed up to its over- the-top excess with foie gras and truffle oil. But no matter what we do to the burger, it remains one of this nation’s favorite foods.

Celebrating that love is “The Gourmet Burger” by Paul Gayler (Gibbs Smith, $24.95), a mouth-wateringly photographed collection of recipes covering everything from toppings to bun types, with tips on meats (including the basic beef), cooking techniques and ethnic variations.

Just as valuable as the burgers themselves are the suggestions for savvy side dishes, such as the Smoky Guacamole with the New Mexican Burger and the Balsamic Grilled Asparagus with the Pesto Salmon Burger. And what is a burger without fries? The potato options in the back are must-tries.

– Kyle Wagner


New Mexican Burger with Sweet Potato Mole and Smoky Guacamole

In this Mexican-inspired burger, Paul Gaylor replaces the soft bun with a crispy fried corn tortilla shell that adds an interesting contrast of texture. Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 pound good quality, coarsely ground beef, chilled

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

2 small red chiles, deseeded, finely chopped

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

1 teaspoon ground cumin

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

salt

Directions

In a large bowl, mix all ingredients together and chill for up to 1 hour. Shape into 4 evenly sized burgers, brush with oil and grill or fry in a nonstick pan over moderate heat for 4-5 minutes each side, until cooked.

To serve, arrange 4 tortilla shells on individual serving plates, place a few salad leaves on each shell and top with a dollop of sweet potato mole. Arrange a burger on top and spoon smoky guacamole over. Garnish with dollop of sour cream and some cilantro leaves and serve with lime wedges.

Sweet Potato Mole

Ingredients

1 cup canned tomatoes, chopped

1 red bell pepper, deseeded, chopped

1 onion, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, crushed

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 corn tortilla, chopped

1 tablespoon hot Mexican pepper sauce

1 tablespoon sesame seeds, toasted

1/8 teaspoon each ground cinnamon, ground cumin, ground coriander and ground cloves

1 tablespoon each chopped fresh oregano and cilantro

1/2 cup peanut butter

1 orange sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Place chopped tomatoes, red bell pepper, onion, garlic, brown sugar, tortilla, pepper sauce, sesame seeds and herbs and spices in a saucepan, cover with 2/3 cup water, bring to boil over high heat.

Cook 10 minutes; reduce heat and simmer for further 30 minutes or until mixture is thick and aromatic. Place in blender and mix to smooth purée. Return to pan. Add peanut butter and heat, stirring, until smooth. Add cubed sweet potato and cook 10-15 minutes until potato is just cooked; adjust seasoning before serving.

Smoky Guacamole

Ingredients

1 ripe but firm avocado, peeled, pitted

1/4 cup olive oil

4 ripe but firm tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice

1/2 red onion, chopped

2 scallions, chopped

1 green jalapeno chile, deseeded, finely chopped

juice of 1 lime

pinch of sugar, pinch of ground cumin

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

salt and freshly ground black pepper

Directions

Heat chargrill or pan until hot. Brush avocado halves all over liberally with 1 tablespoon of oil; place on grill and cook until lightly golden but not charred (which will make flavor bitter); remove and allow to cool).

Place avocado in bowl and mash lightly with fork; add tomatoes, red onion, scallions and chile. Add lime juice, sugar, ground cumin and cilantro, and lastly the remaining oil. Adjust seasoning and set aside.

Pesto Salmon Burger with Balsamic Grilled Asparagus

Serves 4.

Ingredients

1 pound, 5 ounces fresh, skinless, boneless salmon fillet, cut into large chunks

2 tablespoons plus 1/4 cup basil pesto (homemade or store-bought)

1 egg white

1 cup fresh white breadcrumbs

1 shallot, peeled, finely chopped

salt and freshly ground black pepper

olive oil for cooking

6 tablespoons mascarpone cheese

fresh basil leaves for garnish

Directions

Place salmon, basil pesto, egg white, breadcrumbs, shallot and salt and pepper in a food processor and mix until salmon is finely chopped but not puréed. Chill in refrigerator for 30 minutes.

Divide mixture into 8 evenly sized salmon burgers. Heat a little olive oil in large nonstick frying pan over medium heat. Add burgers and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side until golden; do not overcook.

Cut focaccia in half horizontally and toast them, then brush cut sides with oil. To serve, arrange 3 asparagus on each toasted focaccia. Top each with two salmon burgers. Place a good dollop of mascarpone on top, followed by a drizzle of basil pesto, and garnish with basil leaves.

Balsamic Grilled Asparagus

Ingredients

12 asparagus spears, peeled, woody base stem removed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

Directions

Blanch asparagus spears in boiling salted water for 2 minutes, then remove with slotted spoon. Dry on kitchen towel.

Heat chargrill or pan grill until hot. In bowl combine oil, vinegar and mustard to form paste. Pass asparagus spears through mixture and place on hot grill to cook until golden and lightly charred, basting regularly, about 3-4 minutes in total.

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