If pork is at the heart of Southern cooking, then barbecue is its soul. Most of the writing done about ‘cue addresses recipes and rubs, technique and marinades, salads and other sides.
New Orleans food writer Lolis Eric Elie took barbecue to another level in the hardback version of his scholarly “Smokestack Lighting,” a heartwarming journey into Barbecueland that introduced readers to people we probably never would have otherwise known.
Now out in paperback at a more affordable $19.95 – the elegant 1996 hardback version was $35 – the book returns. Those who missed Elie first time around can tune in as he discusses not just the politics of vinegar versus tomato, but the poetics of barbecue as well – as in, if you want to know where the best barbecue in town is, look for the places with Porsches and pickups in the parking lot.
Or you might look for the number of white faces in the black-owned business or the number of black faces in the white-owned joint. From Mo’s Barbecue in East St. Louis, Ill., to Big Pig Jig in Vienna, Ga.; from Chicago juke joints to the vast smoke pits of Sweatman’s Barbecue in Holly Hill, S.C.; from snoots and ribs to chicken and sausage, barbecue emerges as the food of an enraptured people, a community unto itself.
– Ellen Sweets
From “Smokestack Lighting: Adventures in the Heart of Barbecue Country” by Lolis Eric Elie
Lamb Chops a la Donna McClure
You can throw dampened sprigs of fresh rosemary on the coals while cooking to add flavor. Smells good too.
Serves 4
Ingredients
8 loin lamb chops, cut 1-inch or thicker
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons honey
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons minced onion
1 small clove garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon dry mustard
Directions
Place lamb chops in a glass dish. Combine soy sauce, vinegar, onion, garlic, salt, pepper, ginger and mustard and pour mixture over the meat. Marinate 1 hour.
Grill chops 7-8 inches from hot coals for 10-12 minutes per side, brushing frequently with sauce. If using a met thermometer, lamb will be rare at 140 degrees. Serve with remaining sauce.
Back Country Barbecue Chicken Dip
Serves 24
Ingredients
12 chickens, cut in half
1 1/2 pints 40-grain vinegar
1 ounce iodized salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1/2 pound light brown sugar
1 quart ketchup
1 quart water
1/2 pound margarine
Juice of 1 lemon (plus rind)
Directions
In a large pot combine vinegar, salt, pepper and sugar. Stir until sugar is dissolved. Add remaining ingredients and bring the mixture to a light boil
Put chickens on the grill skin side down for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until brown. Immerse them in the dip and then return them to the grill bone side down until done.
Carolyn and Gary Wells’ Grilled Corn on the Cob
Be sure to buy fresh corn. Test by puncturing a kernel with your fingernail. If liquid spurts out or runs down the kernels, buy it.
Ingredients
Fresh corn in husks
Butter
Salt and pepper
Directions
Pull husks down 3-4 inches and remove the corn silks. Pull husks back up. soak corn in ice water for 30 minutes. Place on the back of a grill (not directly over coals). Grill over medium-hot grill 25 to 35 minutes, turning frequently. Serve corn hot either without the husks, or with the husks peeled back to form a handle. Add butter, salt and pepper to taste.
