Miami – Nutrition has been much in the news with the recent release of the federal government’s updated dietary guidelines for Americans.
But a few days after the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s new food pyramid was unveiled last month in Washington, D.C., an international scientific conference was convened in Mexico City to discuss a symbol of healthful eating that has more resonance for Hispanic Americans.
The Latin American Diet Summit was organized by the Oldways Preservation Trust in collaboration with the Harvard School of Public Health. Its focus was the 1996 Latin American Diet Pyramid, one of a
series of dietary constructs introduced by Oldways, a Boston-based nonprofit organization.
Oldways based its Latin pyramid on pre- and post-Columbian eating patterns deemed healthful by today’s scientific standards. Its bedrock is the daily consumption of staple plant foods such as corn, yucca, sweet potatoes, potatoes, quinoa, amaranth, dried beans and peanuts together with fruits and vegetables like guava, mango, avocado, grapes, papaya, citrus fruits, pumpkin, eggplant and tomatoes.
Following the example of the Mediterranean Diet, fish and shellfish is emphasized over animal sources of protein like pork, eggs and red meat. The Latin pyramid encourages seasoning foods with spices and peppers, and using corn, olive and peanut oil in cooking. It confines sweets to small amounts on a weekly basis and encourages physical activity and moderate consumption of alcohol.
The need to reach out to urban Latino families was one of the pivotal themes of the Mexico City conference. Hispanic Americans, particularly Mexicans in border towns, have higher risks of chronic health problems like obesity, diabetes and heart disease than the non-Hispanic white population. A major culprit is the abandonment of traditional eating patterns and healthful staples in favor of calorie-laden, processed foods.
One important conclusion of the conference’s scientific committee is the importance of reaching mothers, the pre-eminent caregivers of the Hispanic family.
The challenges are clear: Hispanics living in the United States are far from monolithic, and the pyramid is only an abstract scheme until it is fleshed out to meet the practical needs of its target audience.
As Oldways founder and president K. Dun Gifford says, “People don’t eat nutrition, they eat food.”
Culinary historian Maricel E. Presilla is chef/co-owner of Cucharamama and Zafra in Hoboken, N.J.
Steve Petusevsky, of Chef Steve’s Carried Away Cuisine in Weston, Fla., and the author of “The Whole Foods Market Cookbook” (Random, $25.95), conducted cooking demonstrations at the Oldways conference in Mexico City. In this recipe, he holds the mayo in favor of a Latin-inspired vinaigrette.
Ingredients
2 pounds red potatoes (Red Bliss or all-purpose), unpeeled and diced
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and diced
Salt
1 medium red onion, peeled and minced
1 (7.5-ounce) jar roasted red bell peppers, drained and chopped
1 Scotch bonnet or jalapeño pepper, seeded and minced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon smoked paprika (preferably Spanish)
1/4 cup capers, rinsed
1/4 cup pitted green olives, chopped
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh oregano or cilantro
1/2 cup roasted peanuts, finely chopped
1 cup peas, frozen or fresh, lightly steamed
1 cup sweet corn kernels, cooked
Directions
Place the red-and-sweet potatoes in a large pot and cover with 3 inches of water. Add salt to taste and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until tender, about 15 minutes. Drain and transfer to a large bowl.
Add the rest of the ingredients and toss with the potatoes. Let rest 10-15 minutes before serving at room temperature. Makes 8-10 servings.
Per serving: 238 calories (36 percent from fat), 9.8g fat (1.4g saturated, 6.1g monounsaturated), 0 mg cholesterol, 6.2g protein, 33.9g carbohydrates, 5.9g fiber, 211.4mg sodium.
