Restaurants are listed alphabetically. They are rated with a maximum of four stars.
AMERICAN
The Bighorn Steakhouse
KEYSTONE
U.S. 6, Keystone Lodge, Keystone Village, 970-496-4500.
*** 1/2|$12-$36|There are so many overpriced, mediocre, faux-Bavarian eateries in the mountain resorts that are unfriendly to groups and families that this one can’t help but stand out. But Bighorn also stands on its own merits. It has excellent game meats and steaks, superior service, and kids are treated right, with a prime rib for $6.50 that even adults will fight over. The atmosphere is elegant but comfortable, and the view is stunning. Reasonable prices, too. Last reviewed February 2005.
Big Papa’s BBQ
6265 E. Evans Ave., 303-300-4499.
***|$6-$17Moist brisket and excellent side dishes (check out the macaroni and cheese and the sweet-potato casserole) make Big Papa’s a good addition to Denver’s barbecue scene. The place is casual and friendly, and the four sauces, each from a different barbecue-producing region (the Carolinas, the Deep South, Memphis and Kansas City), are flavorful and fun. Last reviewed January 2005.
Bull & Bush
4700 Cherry Creek Drive South, Glendale, 303-759-0333.
** 1/2| $6-$17 |Once one of the most popular spots in Glendale, this 33-year- old pub has managed to stay alive by adding a microbrewery and offering one of the largest smoking sections in town. The grub is bar food, no more, no less, and mostly well executed, including a top-notch burger, great sandwiches and creamy mashed potatoes. The beers are well done, as well. Last reviewed September 2004.
Café Star
3201 E. Colfax Ave., 303-320-8635.
*** 1/2|$8-$24|Chef Rebecca Weitzman is the star at this casual, upscale-retro eatery owned by Tom and Marna Sumners, who also own the popular Trattoria Stella in the Highland neighborhood. The menu at the snazzy, comfortable Café Star pulls from small and large plates of such updated classics as lobster potpie, pork “three ways” and stuffed acorn squash, and as much attention is paid to things like salads and pizzettas as to the main meals. Service and dessert can be rough around the edges, but those are quibbles. Last reviewed April 2005.
Elway’s
2500 E. First Ave., 303-399-5353.
***|$19-$58|The steaks are great at this spot named for the owner, former Denver Broncos quarterback John Elway, of course. He left the cooking decisions to his partner, Tim Schmidt, who also owns the popular Hacienda Colorado eateries. Schmidt leaves the day-to-day cooking to chef Charles Schwerd, who sends out amazing steaks, especially the porterhouse, and killer desserts such as do-your-own s’mores and just-baked chocolate chip cookies, but just so-so sides and a toss-up of appetizers (don’t miss the calamari and the coconut shrimp, though). The day-to-day management is done by Tom Moxcey, who runs a tight operation with smart, friendly servers. Last reviewed March 2005.
Go Fish Grille
250 Josephine St., 303-996-9966.
** 1/2 |$11-$23|Usually restaurants are looking to distinguish themselves from chains, but this one seems to be moving toward the concept. And that might not be a bad thing, but casually classy décor, reasonable prices and consistency only work if the consistency part holds true. And it simply doesn’t here, where service can be excruciatingly slow and the food goes up and down. If you have the time and the patience, though, the value is there, with fresh fish coming in at less than $20, with two sides and a salad. Last reviewed February 2005.
Joe’s West of Memphis BBQ|6901 E. Colfax Ave., 303-333-5278. ** 1/2 |$3-$13|The Elvis-oriented decor, welcoming staff and kitschy feel of the place make this an inviting stop for decent barbecue. The hotter sauce is the better of the two, and adventurous diners who don’t have heart trouble should take a stab at the smoked bologna, a delectable treat available as a sandwich. The meats can be on the dry side, but the ribs are always juicy, and the potato salad and sweet potato fries are tops. Last reviewed January 2005.
Lucky Strike
500 16th St. (third level, Denver Pavilions), 303-649-9090.
**| $7-$28|This sexy and edgy bowling alley offers food that’s above and beyond what most bowling alleys do, but it’s still gutter balls and spares much of the way. If you stick with french fries and burgers, you’ll get the strikes, but venture into the ahi tuna, martinis and the other fancy foods, and it’s buyer beware. The music is loud, and the servers wear fishnets and very short skirts, but for folks who like that sort of thing, it’s heaven. And when the chocolate insanity dessert is good, it’s very, very good. Last reviewed January 2005.
Mel’s Restaurant and Bar
235 Fillmore St., 303-333-3979.
*** 1/2|$17-$34|Ten years into it, Mel’s has begun to take on a classy worldliness that fits with its warm, elegant interior and accommodating piano bar. Talented chef Tyler Wiard is back, and he cooks food that is fun but seriously delicious, from the traditional sizzling mussels and steak frites to flirty dishes such as shrimp cocktail atop gazpacho and deviled duck eggs. Execution issues crop up here and there, but for the most part, this is simply one of the top restaurants in town. Last reviewed November 2004.
Palace Arms at the Brown Palace Hotel
321 17th St., 303-297-3111.
*** | $34-$49 | The food is better than it has been in the past two decades at this 54-year-old restaurant, where service has its ups and downs but the atmosphere is over-the-top elegant. New chef Wade Hageman brings extensive experience with top chefs in the nation, which translates in an updated menu and food that hits its mark every time. The best dishes include the lobster medallions appetizer, the soups, the bison filet with foie gras and the loup de mer, a sea bass fillet ringed with scallops atop risotto. The wine list is extravagant, and the desserts are musts, although you can always count on the coconut macaroons, at the end, too. Last reviewed December 2004.
EUROPEAN
Chimney Park Bistro
WINDSOR |406 Main St., 970-686-1477.
** 1/2 | $15-$28 | Inconsistent is the best way to describe this ambitious restaurant on Main Street in Old Town Windsor. The menu is primarily French and the atmosphere upscale bistro. When it’s good, it’s very good: classic lobster bisque with a sweet corn twist, savory vegetables in puff pastry, delectable frog’s legs. But when it’s bad, the food is poorly executed, and the service gets spotty. Last reviewed December 2004.
Frasca
BOULDER |1738 Pearl St., 303-442-6966.
****|$15-$28|It is a rare restaurant that displays such respect for the food and wine it serves, but Frasca does that and more. Impeccable service, an understated setting and simple preparations that use the best ingredients at their peaks make for an incomparable dining experience from beginning to end. The food pulls from the obscure and rustic Friuli region of Italy. Last reviewed February 2005.
The 9th Door
1808 Blake St., 303-292-2229.
*** 1/2 |$6-$9|A dreamy nightclub feel, modern Barcelona by way of Morocco, gives this tapas restaurant a regal quality that underscores excellent food. The plates are not too big or small, but just right for the price, and the savvy execution makes for solid snacking meals. A soon-to-be-expanded roster of cavas and sherries will make this a top stop for an evening out, and the inviting bar means you can also just drop in for a quick bite. Last reviewed April 2005.
Mici
1531 Stout St., 303-629-6424.
** 1/2|$6-$8
We needed more options for downtown dining, especially at lunch, and Mici is a welcome and welcoming one. Run by the Miceli family, this quick, casual spot offers counter ordering, fast service and low prices, with easygoing Italian food with flavor. Last reviewed July 2004.
Rioja
1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282.
** 1/2| $8-$26| The much-anticipated restaurant from chef Jennifer Jasinski is a mixed bag, with service problems and uneven food hindering what should be a stellar experience. The Larimer Square space, however, is casual hip and comfortable, and the dishes that do work, such as the gorgonzola ravioli and the pizza, are wonderful. Last reviewed March 2005.
Ristorante Pantuso
AURORA | 13250 E. Mississippi Ave., 303-337-6255. ** 1/2|$9-$17|Despite the fact this 10,000-square-foot eatery is trying to appeal to the lowest common denominator palatewise to turn the concept into a chain, this is a decent Italian restaurant. The lasagna Bolognese is outstanding, packed with sausage and drenched in a flavorful marinara, and the shrimp and eggplant dishes also are standouts. The servers are young but eager, and the flaming kasseri cheese, while not traditional Italian, is a must order. Last reviewed December 2004.
Saverino
2191 Arapahoe St., 303-308-0764.
* 1/2 |$16-$29|Chef-owner Pino Saverino boasts a hefty résumé that includes many restaurants all over the world and work for celebrities such as Kathleen Turner, Madonna and Sophia Loren, but his food in this eatery lacks oomph and sometimes even basic execution. Safe bets include the osso buco, the gamberi salad and dessert. The space, with its pretty patio, exposed-brick interior, white linens and wood furniture, would be at home in Provence. Last reviewed March 2005.
Somethin’ Else
1313 E. Sixth Ave., 303-831-1992.
****|$3-$15|Chef-owner Sean Kelly wearied of trying to get Denver to “get” his Clair de Lune, so now he has indeed come up with something else to tempt our palates. Still the same small but elegant space (within the next few months, he will expand next door), Somethin’ Else offers small plates, tapas-style, with choices in a variety of categories based on seafood, meats, snacks and desserts. Everything is amazingly good. Last reviewed December 2004. ASIAN
JJ Chinese Restaurant
1048 S. Federal Blvd., 303-934-8888.
*** 1/2 |$5-$18 | An authentic Chinese restaurant that counts excellent pig’s intestines and jellyfish among its offerings, JJ also cooks up amazing seafood and other specialties. The chef is from the Guangdong region of China, so the food relies on Cantonese influences such as roasted duck, heavenly pastries and top-notch dumplings. Last reviewed November 2004.
Mao Asian Bistro and Sushi Lounge
201 Columbine St., 303-377-5350.
*** 1/2|$6-$36|If the name doesn’t bother you, the food and decor will wow you. Primarily Japanese in focus, the menu ranges from superb sushi to well-crafted cooked dishes, with a few Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese items thrown in for good measure. The best way to dine here is omakasa style, which means the kitchen and sushi bar create a tasting menu of dishes to order based on diners’ tastes and what’s fresh that day.Last reviewed July 2004.
MOROCCAN/MIDDLE EASTERN
Café Paprika
AURORA |13160 E. Mississippi Ave., 303-755-4150. *** 1/2 | $7-$14|In the decade that this charming, brightly decorated Moroccan and Mediterranean eatery has been open, it has done nothing but improve. The bastilla appetizer is amazing, its phyllo-encrusted sweet chicken and nuts enhanced by powdered sugar and cinnamon. From there, it’s impossible to go wrong with one of the tajines or the couscous dishes, or try the shell-on shrimp kebabs. The baklava is above average, and the mint tea is the drink of choice, since there’s no alcohol. Last reviewed September 2004.
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN
Fiesta’s New Mexican Café & Cantina
EDWARDS| 57 Edwards Access Road in the Edwards Plaza, 970-926-2121.
** 1/2|$7-$15|A mom-and-pop-and-sister spot, the colorful, casual Fiesta’s is a family-friendly place that serves Southwestern-oriented fare for a very reasonable price. The tasty, potent margaritas come by the liter, and the large portions and friendly service mean the joint is jumping all the time. Check out the signature chicken enchiladas in a creamy jalapeño sauce, the chile relleno and the fajitas. The wait for the bill at the end could take a while. Last reviewed April 2005.
Mexico Restaurant & Cantina
DILLON|703 E. Anemone Trail, 970-513-1144.
***|$17-$25|This $4 million eatery was worth every penny, based on the oohs and aahs that come out of everyone’s mouths when they walk in the front door. From the pierced metal light fixtures that twinkle like stars from the ceiling to the stone tribal figurines and hundreds of other imported-from-Mexico décor items, this place is dazzling. The upscale food matches, with such stunners as filet mignon stuffed with huitlacoche, wood-roasted suckling pig and seafood stew. And the best part is tableside salsa, where the servers make it your way in a molcajete. The downside is that service can be excruciatingly slow. Last reviewed April 2005.
Ocotillo
GREENWOOD VILLAGE| 5960 S. Holly St., 720-200-6755
***|$13-$21|Good Southwestern food from the owner of the eclectic restaurant Ventura Grille just a few doors away in the same shopping plaza. You would never know that’s where this eatery was located, however, since the faux-exposed brick, hardwood floors, angular bar and two patios (one enclosed) offer a classy experience heightened by a distant view of the mountains. The food is well executed and goes beyond the usual chile-drenched fare, including Hatch-infused chicken, tasty ribs, butternut squash ravioli and a well-done tableside guacamole. The bunuelos for dessert are superb. Last reviewed May 2005.
