Restaurants are listed alphabetically. They are rated with a maximum of four stars.
AMERICAN
Big Papa’s BBQ
6265 E. Evans Ave., 303-300-4499.
***|$6-$17Moist brisket and excellent side dishes (check out the macaroni and cheese and the sweet-potato casserole) make Big Papa’s a good addition to Denver’s barbecue scene. The place is casual and friendly, and the four sauces, each from a different barbecue-producing region (the Carolinas, the Deep South, Memphis and Kansas City), are flavorful and fun. Last reviewed January 2005.
Café Star
3201 E. Colfax Ave., 303-320-8635.
*** 1/2|$8-$24|Chef Rebecca Weitzman is the star at this casual, upscale-retro eatery owned by Tom and Marna Sumners, who also own the popular Trattoria Stella in the Highland neighborhood. The menu at the snazzy, comfortable Café Star pulls from small and large plates of such updated classics as lobster potpie, pork “three ways” and stuffed acorn squash, and as much attention is paid to things like salads and pizzettas as to the main meals. Service and dessert can be rough around the edges, but those are quibbles. Last reviewed April 2005.
Elway’s
2500 E. First Ave., 303-399-5353.
***|$19-$58|The steaks are great at this spot named for the owner, former Denver Broncos quarterback John Elway, of course. He left the cooking decisions to his partner, Tim Schmidt, who also owns the popular Hacienda Colorado eateries. Schmidt leaves the day-to-day cooking to chef Charles Schwerd, who sends out amazing steaks, especially the porterhouse, and killer desserts such as do-your-own s’mores and just-baked chocolate chip cookies, but just so-so sides and a toss-up of appetizers (don’t miss the calamari and the coconut shrimp, though). The day-to-day management is done by Tom Moxcey, who runs a tight operation with smart, friendly servers. Last reviewed March 2005.
Go Fish Grille
250 Josephine St., 303-996-9966.
** 1/2 |$11-$23|Usually restaurants are looking to distinguish themselves from chains, but this one seems to be moving toward the concept. And that might not be a bad thing, but casually classy décor, reasonable prices and consistency only work if the consistency part holds true. And it simply doesn’t here, where service can be excruciatingly slow and the food goes up and down. If you have the time and the patience, though, the value is there, with fresh fish coming in at less than $20, with two sides and a salad. Last reviewed February 2005.
Joe’s West of Memphis BBQ
|6901 E. Colfax Ave., 303-333-5278. ** 1/2 |$3-$13|The Elvis-oriented decor, welcoming staff and kitschy feel of the place make this an inviting stop for decent barbecue. The hotter sauce is the better of the two, and adventurous diners who don’t have heart trouble should take a stab at the smoked bologna, a delectable treat available as a sandwich. The meats can be on the dry side, but the ribs are always juicy, and the potato salad and sweet potato fries are tops. Last reviewed January 2005.
NoRTH
190 Clayton Lane, 720-941-7700
*** 1/2|$11-$28|From the retro-hip space to the simple, focused menu, NoRTH works. Jostle for space at the bar or the communal table or sit over by the sliding glass doors that open to the sidewalk in warm weather; either way, a bowl of the zucca chips is the must-have starter, and the pizzas, the pasta Bolognese and the fish dishes are all standouts. Skip dessert, and don’t mull over the wine list too long, since there’s not much to it. Last reviewed May 2005.
Palace Arms at the Brown Palace Hotel
321 17th St., 303-297-3111.
*** | $34-$49 | The food is better than it has been in the past two decades at this 54-year-old restaurant, where service has its ups and downs but the atmosphere is over-the-top elegant. New chef Wade Hageman brings extensive experience with top chefs in the nation, which translates in an updated menu and food that hits its mark every time. The best dishes include the lobster medallions appetizer, the soups, the bison filet with foie gras and the loup de mer, a sea bass fillet ringed with scallops atop risotto. The wine list is extravagant, and the desserts are musts, although you can always count on the coconut macaroons, at the end, too. Last reviewed December 2004.
EUROPEAN
Frasca
BOULDER |1738 Pearl St., 303-442-6966.
****|$15-$28|It is a rare restaurant that displays such respect for the food and wine it serves, but Frasca does that and more. Impeccable service, an understated setting and simple preparations that use the best ingredients at their peaks make for an incomparable dining experience from beginning to end. The food pulls from the obscure and rustic Friuli region of Italy. Last reviewed February 2005.
The 9th Door
1808 Blake St., 303-292-2229.
*** 1/2 |$6-$9|A dreamy nightclub feel, modern Barcelona by way of Morocco, gives this tapas restaurant a regal quality that underscores excellent food. The plates are not too big or small, but just right for the price, and the savvy execution makes for solid snacking meals. A soon-to-be-expanded roster of cavas and sherries will make this a top stop for an evening out, and the inviting bar means you can also just drop in for a quick bite. Last reviewed April 2005.
Mici
1531 Stout St., 303-629-6424.
** 1/2|$6-$8
We needed more options for downtown dining, especially at lunch, and Mici is a welcome and welcoming one. Run by the Miceli family, this quick, casual spot offers counter ordering, fast service and low prices, with easygoing Italian food with flavor. Last reviewed May 2005.
Rioja
1431 Larimer St., 303-820-2282.
** 1/2| $8-$26| The much-anticipated restaurant from chef Jennifer Jasinski is a mixed bag, with service problems and uneven food hindering what should be a stellar experience. The Larimer Square space, however, is casual hip and comfortable, and the dishes that do work, such as the gorgonzola ravioli and the pizza, are wonderful. Last reviewed March 2005.
Saverino
2191 Arapahoe St., 303-308-0764.
* 1/2 |$16-$29|Chef-owner Pino Saverino boasts a hefty résumé that includes many restaurants all over the world and work for celebrities such as Kathleen Turner, Madonna and Sophia Loren, but his food in this eatery lacks oomph and sometimes even basic execution. Safe bets include the osso buco, the gamberi salad and dessert. The space, with its pretty patio, exposed-brick interior, white linens and wood furniture, would be at home in Provence. Last reviewed March 2005.
Somethin’ Else
1313 E. Sixth Ave., 303-831-1992.
****|$3-$15|Chef-owner Sean Kelly wearied of trying to get Denver to “get” his Clair de Lune, so now he has indeed come up with something else to tempt our palates. Still the same small but elegant space (within the next few months, he will expand next door), Somethin’ Else offers small plates, tapas-style, with choices in a variety of categories based on seafood, meats, snacks and desserts. Everything is amazingly good. Last reviewed December 2004. ASIAN
JJ Chinese Restaurant
1048 S. Federal Blvd., 303-934-8888.
*** 1/2 |$5-$18 | An authentic Chinese restaurant that counts excellent pig’s intestines and jellyfish among its offerings, JJ also cooks up amazing seafood and other specialties. The chef is from the Guangdong region of China, so the food relies on Cantonese influences such as roasted duck, heavenly pastries and top-notch dumplings. Last reviewed November 2004.
MOROCCAN/MIDDLE EASTERN
Café Paprika
AURORA |13160 E. Mississippi Ave., 303-755-4150. *** 1/2 | $7-$14|
In the decade that this charming, brightly decorated Moroccan and Mediterranean eatery has been open, it has done nothing but improve. The bastilla appetizer is amazing, its phyllo-encrusted sweet chicken and nuts enhanced by powdered sugar and cinnamon. From there, it’s impossible to go wrong with one of the tajines or the couscous dishes, or try the shell-on shrimp kebabs. Last reviewed September 2004.
MEXICAN/SOUTHWESTERN
Fiesta’s New Mexican
Café & Cantina
EDWARDS| 57 Edwards Access Road in the Edwards Plaza, 970-926-2121.
** 1/2|$7-$15|
A mom-and-pop-and-sister spot, the colorful, casual Fiesta’s is a family-friendly place that serves Southwestern-oriented fare for a very reasonable price. The tasty, potent margaritas come by the liter, and the large portions and friendly service mean the joint is jumping all the time. Check out the signature chicken enchiladas in a creamy jalapeño sauce, the chile relleno and the fajitas. The wait for the bill at the end could take a while. Last reviewed April 2005.
Mexico Restaurant & Cantina
DILLON|703 E. Anemone Trail, 970-513-1144.
***|$17-$25|
This $4 million eatery was worth every penny, based on the oohs and aahs that come out of everyone’s mouths when they walk in the front door. The upscale food matches, with such stunners as filet mignon stuffed with huitlacoche, wood-roasted suckling pig and seafood stew. And the best part is tableside salsa, where the servers make it your way in a molcajete. The downside is that service can be excruciatingly slow. Last reviewed April 2005.
Ocotillo
GREENWOOD VILLAGE| 5960 S. Holly St., 720-200-6755
***|$13-$21|Good Southwestern food from the owner of the eclectic restaurant Ventura Grille just a few doors away in the same shopping plaza. The food is well executed and goes beyond the usual chile-drenched fare, including Hatch-infused chicken, tasty ribs, butternut squash ravioli and a well-done tableside guacamole. The bunuelos for dessert are superb. Last reviewed May 2005.
