What does a man need in his business wardrobe? We consulted several industry experts for the answers, including the style director at a men’s magazine, an image consultant and a menswear retailer.
They offered suggestions on ways to personalize business attire, because the reality today is that a man may wear several looks from casual to formal in a given workweek. Consequently, he should have a variety of styles in his wardrobe to reflect those needs.
Men should buy the best-quality clothing they can afford, and make sure a suit jacket and pants are tailored to their physique. Start with the basics, then build on them as your wardrobe and salary grow, say the pros.
-Suzanne S. Brown
The basics
A solid suit in navy blue, black or charcoal gray in a year-round fabric weight. Two-button styling is preferred.
A navy blue blazer with matching or metal buttons.
Pants in gray, khaki or olive.
3-5 shirts, including at least one that is white.
3-5 ties in various colors and patterns
Shoes in black leather, with laces
The experts
Bruce Pask is style director at Cargo magazine, which soon will feature a story on wardrobe basics.
Don’t skimp when buying a suit, but don’t think you have to spend $1,000 either, he says. “Companies such as Express and Banana Republic are making good products.”
Tailored clothing: “The common misconception is to go with a black suit, but I think it’s hard to pull off,” he says. “For me, a medium to dark charcoal gray is the most versatile because it’s good for day and can be dressed up for evening.
Black can be too formal-looking for day. Navy also is a good choice.
Look for a “10-month suit,” one in a medium-weight worsted wool. A two-button silhouette is best, as are medium width lapels. If lapels are too skinny, you won’t be taken seriously, unless you’re in a fashion career.
“The one thing I have to caution is to make sure you have the right size,” he says. “The plague of tailored clothing is buying it too big and then it makes your neck look smaller.”
Furnishings: White and blue shirts are good choices.
Select ties in small graphic patterns in blue and purple. A simple black tie is always good because it can go into evening.
In shoes, black is a good basic, and brown is a nice option. A wingtip or cap-toe style is best.
Bill Folk has been at Homer Reed Ltd. for 17 years and is outfitting the sons and grandsons of some of the menswear retailer’s original customers.
“The younger guys want to dress better these days, but they don’t want to look like Dad,” Folk says. “I try to steer them through and let them know that business is not GQ and they need to get the basics first. Once they have the job and are making a living, they can go for the fashion part of it. When they’re successful.”
Homer Reed opened in 1954 and has three stores in the metro area. It offers a package of three suits, or two suits and a sport coat, dress pants, three shirts and three ties for $1,695.
Tailored clothing: “It’s still the classic gray or navy blue pinstripe or chalk stripe that you need for interviews,” he says. “You need to look serious about business, not like you’re trying to be P. Diddy.”
Furnishings: Start with white shirts, because everything can go with them. “Often an interview will begin at 3 p.m. and at 5 p.m. they’ll want to go to dinner,” he says. “It’s because they want to see how you handle yourself. And a white shirt looks dressier.”
Folk suggests avoiding French cuff shirts because “you’ll look like you’re trying to outdo the executive. And you want to look like you need a job.”
Always wear over-the-calf socks, he says. “There’s nothing worse than crossing your legs and having leg showing.”
It’s also important, he says, to feel comfortable in your clothes.
“Wear the suit to church or dinner so you feel at ease in it during the interview. And know how to tie a tie.”
Sherry Maysonave is an image consultant and author with a new DVD on branding a positive business image, including such things as communication and etiquette skills as well as wardrobe.
Making an the right first impression is important, she says, because you don’t have time to undo a negative one. When someone hands you a business card, for example, do you immediately shove it in your pocket or take a moment to look at it, make some kind of comment about it and then put it away? “It’s offensive in many cultures to not hold it for a few minutes,” she says.
Tailored clothing: Every man should have a black or navy suit, which he can dress up or down, mixing and matching it with other pieces.
For a second suit, she suggests a microcheck or subtle pattern to mix and match with a navy or black suit to create multiple outfits. Such combinations as navy with an olive and navy microcheck, or combinations of black and tan, are effective.
If you want a blazer to wear with dress pants, select one with buttons in a color that matches the jacket fabric rather than metal buttons.
In suits, fit is critical. “You sabotage the statement you want to make if you get a bargain suit and don’t have it tailored,” she says.
Flat-front pants are not cuffed; pleated ones typically are cuffed. The size of cuff shouldn’t be more than one-half inch.
Furnishings: Black lace-up shoes (no lug soles) or dressy slip-ons are acceptable. Wingtips or shoes with tassels are also OK.
“People notice shoes,” she says. “The condition of the shoes tells a lot about how a person handles details and about their socioeconomic status. The interviewer might note from your shoes that you have already achieved some level of success. Even if you’re just out of college, it could indicate that you’re willing to invest in yourself and your business image.”
Match your belt to your shoes. Choose one without too much hardware.
A watch in gold, silver, stainless steel or mixed metals is the most versatile.
In shirts, a white spread or point collar shirt is the most authoritative. Avoid button-downs. A half-Windsor knot looks good, as it’s a bit larger than the classic four-in-hand.
Ties are important, she says. “They tell a lot about a person and are a way for a man to express himself.” Avoid themes such as sports, cartoons and humor. The most businesslike are foulard, paisley, geometrics and stripes. Men with light hair can pick a tie with lighter colors.
