Since 1915, Rocky Mountain National Park has thrilled visitors with untrammeled mountain vistas, herds of elk and meandering moose. Scenery and wildlife are the star attractions, but don’t miss the historic lodges near the towns of Estes Park and Grand Lake, built by ranchers-turned-innkeepers at the turn of the 20th century.
As tourists streamed into the park, ranchers found it preferable to run hotels than wrangle cattle. They designed rugged retreats where city folks could commune with nature. Stone fireplaces, log beams, large porches and stick furniture helped bring the outdoors in.
Authors of a new book have coined the term “Rocky Mountain Rustic” to describe the architecture – similar to Adirondack style – found around Rocky Mountain National Park from the 1870s to the 1930s. The old structures were once viewed as man-made intrusions, so the National Park Service removed most of those inside the park boundaries after World War II. But today a quiet movement is underway to preserve buildings with historical significance, remembering a ranching legacy that evolved into dude ranches and other tourist attractions.
“These days visitors to Rocky Mountain National Park are interested in the real story, the more complicated and interesting story you get when you see that there were people here – and how we fit into the landscape,” says James Lindberg, co-author of “Rocky Mountain Rustic” (Rocky Mountain Nature Association, $29.95).
Outside, looking inn
To view examples of Rocky Mountain Rustic architecture, visit some of the area’s historic inns and ranches, many listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Starting in Grand Lake, the Rapids Inn (209 Rapids Lane; 970-627-3707; www.rapidslodge.com) has welcomed guests since 1915. Overlooking the Tonahutu river, the cozy dining room has set the scene for many a wedding proposal. Stories of ghosts and the inn’s shady past make this rustic gem a must-see. Notice the exterior’s fine example of “barkies,” log slabs arranged in a whimsical pattern. Stay for a night in the lodge or historic cabins. Stop in for dinner and enjoy a complimentary shrimp appetizer. Open year round.
The nearby SolVista Marina (daily; adults, $13; children 12 years old and under, $7; 1030 Lake Ave; 970-627-8158) offers a fascinating boat tour of the homes clustered around the lake. Open through Sept. 5. Or visit the Kauffman House (11-5 daily; 407 Pitkin St.; 970-627-9644), the last 19th-century tourist hotel in Grand Lake, built in 1892. Admission is by donation. Check out the clever pass-through cupboard between the kitchen and dining room. At the museum, pick up a historic walking tour book ($6) and take the self-guided Grand Lake tour. Don’t miss the Spider House with its tragic history and elegant twig porch railings.
Down the highway, the Grand Lake Lodge (15500 U.S. 34; 970-627-3967; (www.grandlakelodge.com), opened in 1920 and quickly became Colorado’s favorite front porch. Here you’ll find creaky porch swings, a large lodge-style dining room, and an extensive menu.
Take in the views of the sapphire-colored lake below Mount Baldy or browse through one of the area’s best souvenir shops. Stop by for dinner or Sunday brunch (recommendations recommended), or stay for the night. Open June-Sept. 6.
When prohibition shut down his Denver saloon in 1916, John Holzwarth Sr. became a high- mountain rancher. Tour the Holzwarth Trout Lodge (10-4 daily) in Rocky Mountain National Park and hear stories of pioneer life in the Kawuneeche Valley. The site is on U.S. 34, 7 miles north of the Grand Lake Entrance Station.
It’s a 15-minute walk to the ranch. Open June 19-Aug. 30. Though nothing is left of the once-bustling 1920s town, the Moraine Park Museum, (9-5 daily; 970/586-1206), helps you imagine life as it was in this verdant glacial valley. The museum is located in an old resort lodge. Savor the view from the museum’s second-story and watch for elk. Located off Bear Lake Road, 1 1/2 miles from the Beaver Meadows Entrance. Open June 1-Aug. 30.
The MacGregor Ranch (Tuesay-Friday. 10-4; $3; 180 MacGregor Lane; 970-586-3749; www.macgregorranch.org), is the last working cattle ranch in Estes Park. Restored to its 1920s status, the 1873 homestead gives visitors a glimpse of early ranch life and is a favorite with children. Open through Aug. 30.
At the west end of Estes Park, the Elkhorn Lodge (600 W. Elkhorn Ave; 970-586-4416, www.elkhornlodge.org) opened in 1874. Ranch buildings and a rustic church along Fall River give guests a historical lodging experience. Stop by for steaks and burgers served in the hayloft. Open through Oct. 1.
South of Estes, the Baldpate Inn (4900 Colorado 7, 970-586-6151, (www.baldpateinn.com), named after a mystery novel, has been attracting guests for 85 years. Perched on Twin Sisters Mountain at 9,000 feet, the rustic lodge is probably most famous for its collection of keys (20,000-plus), some belonging to famous digs like the White House and Mozart’s wine cellar. Stay for night or stop by for lunch or dinner. Recommendations recommended. Don’t miss the short walk to Lily Lake. Open through Sept. 30.
Nighttime entertainment at the Meeker Park Lodge (11733 Colorado 7, 303-747-2266) once meant square dancing around the lodge’s rustic pine pillars with lights-out (called “Meeker midnight”) promptly at 10 p.m. Times have changed, but the same granite fireplace, knotty-pine furniture and camp atmosphere welcome guests today. The large two-story log porch built in 1929 is Rocky Mountain Rustic at its best. Visitors stay in cabins and eat in the lodge dining room. Open May 30-Sept. 5.
For more information on Rocky Mountain National Park, go to www.rockymountainnationalpark.com, or call 970-586-1206.
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Don’t miss
On July 13 – 18, grab your cowboy hat and amble over to Stanley Park Fairgrounds in Estes Park for the Rooftop Rodeo ($5-$12) where cowboys and cowgirls have been riding broncs for 75 years. Watch bull riding, steer wrestling, calf roping and barrel racing. Kids can try mutton bustin’. For tickets in advance, or to register children for “Mutton Bustin”‘ or for information, contact the Estes Park Fairgrounds (970-586-6104; events@estes.org).
For more information about the book, “Rocky Mountain Rustic,” call 800-816-7662 or visit www.rmna.org.
