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Basalt – If you love authentically Mexican cooking, you must experience Taqueria El Nopal.

Disregarding pleas from diehard El Nopal diners who don’t want the world to know “their” secret, here’s my take on this 10-year-old restaurant housed in a tin-roof storefront on Colorado 82 just outside the city center.

It sits alone in the center of an unpaved lot. No asphalt, no stripes – nothing to indicate that inside are served some of the most exquisite tacos this side of the border. There aren’t enough menus to go around, so take a look at one while you wait in line. Relay your wishes to the smiling staff behind the counter, then find a table. You don’t get a number, so it remains a mystery how the servers find you to deliver your order.

There are daily specials, and everyone swears by Thursday’s chile rellenos ($6.50) and Friday’s fish tacos ($1.75 each). We bypassed Saturday’s menudo ($3.50 small, $6.50 large) and headed straight for the tacos.

Oh joy. Oh rapture.

White-corn tacos, about 4 inches in diameter, are $1.50 each. They’re topped with your choice of beef, marinated pork, vegetables, beef cheeks or beef tripe, so there’s a strong temptation to order one of each. But three make a full meal, especially if topped with a dollop of guacamole (50 cents), cheese (25 cents) or pico de gallo (.25) and accompanied by a bowl of refried beans and rice ($2).

Homemade salsas – avocado, green chile, red chile, chopped onions and cilantro – are available at no extra charge at the salsa bar and enhance the pure, fresh flavors.

Papusas Salvadoran style ($1.50) are filled with cotija cheese, pork or a mix of the two. If you prefer a house special, be forewarned: Portions are substantial. One companion, notorious for maintaining her hourglass figure despite her trucker’s capacity for cleaning the last crumbs from her plate, couldn’t demolish her $5.95 burrito plate. It included a burrito the size of nearby Mount Sopris, plus refried beans, lettuce, pico de gallo, rice and guacamole.

Ditto the $9.50 carne asada plate that had the same sides plus two tortillas. With one beer each, lunch for four came to a little under $35.

You could spend more on dessert, but it’s unlikely you’ll get that far. If your sweet tooth demands satisfaction, flan ($2) and tres leches, the traditional three-milk cake, ($2.50) are yours for the asking.

In addition to several brands of beer ($2.50-$3), there are margaritas ($4-$4.50), sodas and sangria. For true aficionados of the Mexican experience, there is also horchata, a sweet rice drink.

This is a very special place, but don’t say I sent you.

Ellen Sweets can be reached at 303-820-1284 or esweets@denverpost.com.


Taqueria El Nopal

Mexican|22826 Two Rivers Road, Basalt, 970-927-3347|$1.50-$10.50|Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.; Friday, Saturday, Sunday, 10 a.m.- 9:30 p.m.; MC, Visa; parking. Second location, 2902 Glen Ave., Unit B, Glenwood Springs; 970-945-7311

Front burner: Extraordinary white-corn tacos, papusas, quesadillas and burritos.

Back burner: Desperately needs new air conditioning.

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