Brunch is a great end-of-summer leisure activity and a tasty way to catch up with family and friends before the busy fall season begins.
For brunch inspirations with a modern twist, we’ve turned to the pros.
McCormick’s Fish House & Bar in the Oxford Hotel in downtown Denver added an a la carte Sunday brunch in May, with all-you-can-eat scrambled eggs, sausage or bacon, potatoes and buttermilk biscuits for $4.95.
One of the best things about brunch at McCormick’s is … no buffet. “We prefer to serve it seated,” says Jeanna Gaydeski, general manager and no fan of self-serve. “Because we’re a fish house, we have one of the largest brunch menus in Denver – it’s the same size as lunch and dinner. You don’t see a lot of seafood on other brunch menus.”
Executive chef Stephen Vice combines the restaurant’s specialty with the morning meal in such dishes as eggs and pan-fried fresh trout seared with applewood bacon, and lox and eggs scrambled with red onions and capers, served with a bagel and cream cheese.
For Saturday and Sunday brunch at Rioja in Larimer Square, chef Jennifer Jasinski offers the best of breakfast and lunch, with a crisp potato galette with eggs and smoked salmon, her signature goat cheese ravioli floating in tomato consommé as clear as stained glass, flecked with bits of fried basil, and apple fritters former Denver Post dining critic Kyle Wagner called “part dessert, part heavenly a.m. comfort food.”
A new cookbook from the Culinary Institute of America, “Breakfasts & Brunches: Over 175 New Recipes From the World’s Premier Culinary College” (Lebhar-Friedman Books; $35), offers an encyclopedic look at morning food.
“Brunches are a really good catch-all kind of meal,” says David Kamen, associate professor of culinary arts at the college in Hyde Park, N.Y. Depending on individual preferences, you can dine on a collection of breakfast or lunch fare – or a combination of the two.
“Beyond that, it is a great way to entertain because brunches can typically offer something to satisfy everybody and typically less expensively than a dinner party,” Kamen says.
Many styles of food are possible – salads, hot sandwiches and what Kamen refers to as “lower-impact” entrees, which don’t require as much preparation time or effort as dinner entrees.
That includes dishes like frittatas, updated quiches (add ingredients like caramelized onions or grated Asiago cheese and lobster pieces to make them chic) and cheese blintzes.
Saddle Peak Lodge in Calabasas, Calif., serves a dynamite Sunday brunch on the patio in Malibu Canyon. Menu selections run the gamut from the ever-popular favorites, eggs Benedict and buffalo burger, to newer selections introduced by Mark Murillo, executive chef.
Among them are French toast with bananas and pecan butter and crab cakes with poached eggs, two recipes he shares.
“For me personally, brunch is my favorite service,” says Murillo, adding that typically, 185 or so brunch meals are served every Sunday at the restaurant. “I feel energized to do brunch and used to cook it at home every so often,” adds Murillo. But it was Filipino- style food – like Filipino sausage, corned beef hash, lumpias, Spam and eggs, fried eggs over steamed or fried rice or mung bean soup – while he was growing up in Diamond Bar, Calif.
Brunch can go beyond the egg strata and basket of muffins, say the chefs.
“Many of the things in the cookbook are somewhat outside the box,” says Kamen – like a couscous salad with curried vegetables and ginger-sesame stir-fried scallops with lo mein noodles.
Serving brunch buffet-style is easiest on the host and most appealing to guests, as they can select the foods that fit specific diet needs, notes Kamen. You can include a salad or two, a fruit platter, a savory entree or two, sides like Canadian bacon, ham, salmon, shrimp or sausages and a basket of pastries (store-bought or homemade) – but choose items that will hold well and don’t require last-minute cooking for best eating quality.
Some, but not all, items can be prepared a day or two in advance.
“I’m a big fan of making baked goods on the day you use them,” adds Kamen. If you’re pressed for time, rely on store-bought items like muffins, scones, puff pastry and prepared pie dough instead of making your own.
Marczyk Fine Foods, 770 E. 17th Ave., just east of downtown Denver, makes vegetarian and chorizo breakfast burritos on site, and has coffeecake and blueberry muffins from Paradise Bakery every day at 8 a.m.
You can slice bread for French toast early the day of the brunch and keep it in a plastic food bag, says Murillo. The pecan butter can also be prepared a couple of days in advance and refrigerated.
While the crab cakes can be assembled and formed early the day of serving and refrigerated, coat with the panko-flour mixture just before sautéing. Make the tomato sauce two or three days in advance and keep refrigerated, if desired. Reheat in a microwave just before serving.
Food editor Kristen Browning-Blas contributed to this report.
Crab Cakes with Poached Eggs and Smoky Tomato Sauce
Adapted from a recipe shared by Mark Murillo, executive chef, Saddle Peak Lodge, Calabasas, Calif. Makes 4 servings.
Ingredients
1 tablespoon finely diced red onion
2 tablespoons finely diced celery
2 tablespoons finely diced red bell
pepper
1 pound lump crab meat (we used a 1-pound can Phillips brand pasteurized crab purchased in the refrigerator section of markets, rinsed, well drained and sprinkled with a
little fresh lemon juice)
1 egg
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
Cayenne pepper to taste
1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard
1/4 cup panko bread crumbs
1/4 cup flour
1 1/2 tablespoons vegetable OR canola oil OR a combination of half oil and half butter
8 eggs
Tomato Sauce (recipe follows)
Frisee (drizzled with extra virgin olive oil, a squeeze of fresh lemon and salt and pepper)
Opal basil pieces for garnish
Directions
In a mixing bowl, combine red onion, celery, red pepper, crab, egg, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, cayenne pepper and mustard. Mix well. Mix bread crumbs with flour in a shallow dish or bowl.
Form crab mixture into 4 thick cakes. Coat all over with bread crumb-flour mixture. In a large skillet, heat oil until hot. Add crab cakes and cook on each side until golden brown.
Meanwhile, poach eggs: Break four at a time into a medium skillet of boiling water with a few tablespoons of champagne vinegar in it and a dash of salt. Eggs should be totally submerged in water. Reduce heat, cover and cook until desired doneness – from 2-4 minutes, watching carefully. Repeat to cook all eggs.
Cut each crab cake lengthwise in half and open so you have 2 half-moons. Place 2 half-moons, slightly apart, on each serving plate. Place 2 poached eggs on top. Drizzle warm tomato sauce all around crab cakes on plate and a little over top, if desired. Top with frisee and opal basil. Serve immediately.
Smoky Tomato Sauce
Makes about 1 1/3 cups.
Ingredients
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 red onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced or pressed
1/4 to 1/2 small jalapeno, seeds and veins
removed, minced
5 Roma tomatoes, quartered
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar
3 to 4 basil leaves, chopped
1/4 to 1/2 canned chipotle chile OR 1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon ground chipotle chile pepper (a spice available in a jar from McCormick)
1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream
A few drops liquid smoke (to taste)
Salt and pepper
Directions
In a medium saucepan, heat oil until hot. Add red onions, garlic and jalapeño and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until onions are translucent. Add tomatoes, 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, basil and chipotle chile and heat to boiling. Reduce heat to medium or medium-high, cover and cook 7 minutes. Remove cover and continue cooking over medium heat 3 minutes more.
Turn into food processor fitted with a metal blade and process 1-2 minutes until as evenly puréed as possible (texture will not be smooth). Add cream, remaining 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar and liquid smoke and process until well mixed. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Couscous Salad with Curried Vegetables
Couscous is not a grain; it is actually a pasta. To make a steaming setup for the couscous, put about 2 inches of water in a pot with a tight-fitting lid and bring it to a simmer. Line a colander with rinsed cheesecloth to keep the couscous from falling through the holes. Put it over the simmering water, not directly in it. Cover the pot again and steam until the couscous swells and is very tender. From “Breakfasts and Brunches: Over 175 New Recipes from the World’s Premier College,” by the Culinary Institute of America, makes 8 servings.
Ingredients
1 1/2 bunches medium asparagus, cut on the bias into 2-inch pieces
2 cups cauliflower florets
1 3/4 cups julienned fennel bulb
2/3 cup cooked or canned chickpeas, drained and rinsed
1/2 cup curry vinaigrette (see recipe)
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups dry couscous
One 3-inch cinnamon stick
1/4 cup toasted slivered almonds
3 tablespoons flat-leaf parsley leaves, whole or chiffonade
3 tablespoons dry currants, plumped in warm water
1 1/4 cups cherry tomatoes, cut in half
1/2 cup harissa (sold in Middle Eastern markets and some grocery stores)
Directions
Steam or boil asparagus, cauliflower, and fennel separately until tender. Drain well; combine vegetables and chickpeas with curry vinaigrette while vegetables are still hot. Season with salt and pepper. Cover and marinate in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes and up to 3 days before serving.
Steam couscous with cinnamon stick until hot, fluffy and tender, 10-12 minutes. Fluff couscous to break up any lumps and fold in almonds, parsley and currants. Top with marinated vegetables and tomatoes. Serve with harissa sauce spooned over the vegetables or passed on the side.
Curry Vinaigrette
To give your curry vinaigrette an intense aroma, you can infuse the oil with the curry powder as follows: Combine the oil and the curry powder in a small sauce pot over low heat and warm the oil until the mixture has a good aroma. The oil should not get much hotter than 160 degrees. Remove the oil from the heat and let the oil cool before continuing to make the vinaigrette. Makes 2 cups.
Ingredients
6 tablespoons cider vinegar
4 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon orange juice
1 tablespoon honey
1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely minced lemongrass
2 teaspoons curry powder
1 1/4 cups canola or sunflower oil
3/4 teaspoons salt, to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
Directions
Whisk together vinegar, lemon juice, orange juice, honey, ginger, lemongrass and curry powder. Whisk in oil gradually until vinaigrette is slightly thickened and evenly blended. Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper.
Grilled Trout Salad
This salad is a big seller at McCormick’s Fish House and Bar brunches. Adapted from the restaurant and epicurious.com, serves 4.
Ingredients
APPLE CIDER VINAIGRETTE:
1/2 cup apple cider or juice
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
Salt and pepper to taste
SALAD:
2 cups mixed greens
1/2 cup spinach
1/4 cup glazed walnuts
2-3 carrots, cut into matchstick strips
About 1/3 cup brie, diced
4 strips bacon, crumbled
1 pound trout fillets, grilled or broiled
1 red apple
Cherry tomatoes
Directions
Whisk vinaigrette ingredients in a nonreactive bowl.
Combine all salad ingredients, except trout, apple and tomatoes, in a large bowl. Toss with vinaigrette to coat greens.
Mound salad high on serving plates. Cut apple into slices and fan next to greens. Top with grilled trout and garnish with cherry tomatoes.
French Toast with Bananas, Pecan Butter and Maple Syrup
Adapted from a recipe by Mark Murillo, executive chef, Saddle Peak Lodge, Calabasas, Calif. Makes 5 servings.
Ingredients
2 (1-pound) loaves unsliced egg bread
4 eggs
1/2 cup sugar
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
Several dashes ground nutmeg (a little more than 1/8 teaspoon)
1 1/3 cups half-and-half
2 tablespoons butter
Banana Topping (recipe follows)
Pecan butter (unsalted butter mixed with toasted, finely chopped pecans and a few drops molasses)
Warm maple syrup
Directions
Trim ends off bread loaves. Cut remaining bread into 15 (3 3/4-inch) thick slices (you’ll only need part of a second loaf of bread, so use remainder for eating or cooking another dish). In a medium bowl, with a wire whisk, whisk together eggs until well mixed. Whisk in sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and half-and-half until thoroughly blended.
Heat a nonstick griddle over medium-high heat until hot. Add 2 teaspoons butter and melt. Dip bread slices in egg mixture, turning to coat evenly. Place 3 or 4 slices on griddle at a time, depending on size, and cook until golden brown on each side, turning only once. Remove to platter and keep warm. Repeat with remaining butter, bread and egg mixture, until all French toast is cooked. To serve, place 3 French toast slices, overlapping, on each serving plate and top with one-fifth of Banana Topping. Garnish with a scoop of pecan butter and serve immediately. Pass warm maple syrup.
Banana Topping
3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoon brown sugar
5 large bananas, peeled and sliced diagonally into 1/2- to 3/4-inch pieces.
Directions
In a large skillet, cook butter and brown sugar over medium heat, stirring, until sugar dissolves, 1-2 minutes. Add bananas to skillet and continue to cook over medium heat 2-3 minutes, turning to coat bananas with syrup until slightly softened but not mushy. Use immediately to top French toast. Makes enough for 5 servings.
Ginger Sesame Stir-Fried Scallops with Lo Mein Noodles
Scallops have a sweet flavor that’s a perfect foil for the pungent marinade in this stir fry, but other seafood works well too: shrimp (peeled and deveined first), swordfish cut into chunks or monkfish cut into rounds. From “Breakfasts and Brunches: Over 175 New Recipes From the World’s Premier College,” by the Culinary Institute of America. Makes 8 servings
Ingredients
1 pound sea scallops
5 tablespoons peanut oil, divided use
1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon soy or tamari sauce
1 tablespoon minced ginger
1 tablespoon dark sesame oil
1 tablespoon tablespoon fermented black beans, optional
2 teaspoons minced garlic
1 teaspoon honey
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon ground black pepper, or to taste
1 1/2 cups fine julienne carrots
2 cups sliced shiitake mushroom caps
4 cups finely sliced bok choy or Savoy cabbage
2 packages lo mein noodles
1/2 cup thinly sliced scallions, cut on the bias
2 tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
Directions
Pull the muscle tabs from the scallops. Blot the scallops dry and set aside.
Combine 3 tablespoons peanut oil, rice vinegar, soy sauce, ginger, sesame oil, fermented beans (if using), garlic, honey, lemon juice, salt and pepper in a bowl and whisk until blended. Add scallops and toss until evenly coated. Cover and marinate in the refrigerator at least 2 and up to 24 hours.
Bring a large pot of salted water to a rolling boil while you stir-fry the vegetables.
Heat a large wok or saute pan over high heat. Add remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil. When oil is very hot, add the carrots and mushrooms, and stir-fry for 1 minute.
Add cabbage once mushrooms have caramelized slightly, and stir-fry until cabbage is wilted, 3-4 minutes.
Once cabbage has started to turn translucent and has wilted slightly, add scallops and marinade to vegetable mixture and stir-fry until scallops are opaque and just cooked through, 3-4 minutes. Add lo mein noodles to boiling water at the same time you add scallops to wok. Stir once or twice with a fork or chopsticks to separate strands. Boil noodles until fully cooked and tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and keep hot.
To serve, place noodles on a heated platter or individual plates and top with scallions and vegetables. Sprinkle with scallions and toasted sesame seeds.
