Great pizza is associated with a handful of cities – Rome, New York and Chicago among them. But Buenos Aires?
The urge to pile cheese and other tasty ingredients atop circles of baked dough seems universal. And that’s why Denver residents have the Buenos Aires Pizzeria, a gem of a spot in the Ballpark neighborhood.
These Argentine expats turn out marvelous pies with myriad ingredients, some of them (sardines, hard-boiled eggs and hearts of palm) novel to American pizza palates. There are sandwiches and salads, along with empanadas, the savory pastries found throughout Latin America.
The pizzas are built on a light, toothsome crust. It’s not Brooklyn-style thin, but these pizza-makers still subscribe to the notion that the crust should serve as a platform for the ingredients, not the caloric heart of the meal. (Sorry, Windy City residents.)
Thirty types of pizza are available, with a base of tomato sauce or olive oil. While you’ll find familiar ingredients, the curveballs stand out.
Who thought of putting corn on pizza? A genius, apparently. The Humita pie is covered with mozzarella, corn, green onion and white sauce. At $10.90 for a 12-inch small pizza, it’s a revelation for two hungry people.
The Belgrano ($10.90) is adorned with mozzarella, hearts of palm and blue cheese; the Chocio ($10.90) combines mozz, bacon and corn. The adventurous can try the Tropical ($10.90), with mozzarella, ham, pineapple, sliced orange and coconut. Yes, it works.
The room is cheery. Butter-yellow walls segue into a pistachio-green ceiling, and diners are ringed by cityscapes of Buenos Aires. A large photograph of Carlos Gardel, the legendary Argentine entertainer, anchors one end of the bar.
Tables boast jars of chimichurri, the classic Argentine condiment of parsley, olive oil, garlic and pepper. Spoon it onto the complimentary bread; the flavor jumps in the mouth.
More than a dozen varieties of empanadas ($1.75) are available. The plump half-moon pastries are packed with goodies (chorizo, tuna, eggplant, blue cheese and corn among them), arriving in a flaky, golden-brown crust.
Sandwiches are simple. The choripan ($6.50) bursts with pork sausage that is grilled and served on a baguette with lettuce, tomato and roasted red pepper. Milanesa Napolitana ($7.25) is a kitchen sink: breaded steak, ham, cheese and tomato sauce.
And while Argentines are famed carnivores, veggie options include eggplant and cheese sandwiches ($5.75).
Buenos Aires Pizzeria is a welcome addition to Denver. On Wednesday and Thursday nights, you can even take tango lessons. It’s fitting: This ‘za is worth dancing over.
Staff writer William Porter can be reached at 303-820-1877 or wporter@denverpost.com.
Buenos Aires Pizzeria
PIZZA AND MORE|1307 22nd St., 303-296-6710|$1.75-$17.25|Breakfast from 6 a.m. Tuesday-Saturday; lunch-dinner 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday-Saturday; noon-8 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday. MC, Visa, Discover, Amex.
Front burner: Tasty sandwiches and novel takes on terrific pizza in a vibrant room.
Back burner: Thanks to an open door on a recent visit, a couple of pesky houseflies buzzed tables.
