Zihuatanejo, Mexico – Mind you, Zihua’s not the undiscovered, uninhabited tropical paradise that might have been described to you.
Not long ago, this small cove of a city in La Costa Grande on Mexico’s west coast was exactly that, a safe place for in-the- know tourists smart enough to look beyond the city limits of the obnoxiously built-up Ixtapa, which looms a few miles to the northwest. But now those people have moved on, and while Zihua’s still not the circus Ixtapa is, it’s definitely a bustling town brimming with chill, like-minded American, Mexican and German tourists.
Zihua is about 149 miles northwest of Acapulco, and a bay protects the beaches of this charming little town from the Pacific Ocean’s temper tantrums. The town anchors the bay on one side with its narrow streets, epic seafood and countless merchants, and a series of roads and footpaths connect it with the five beaches and various communities that stretch across the bay.
While it’s no longer the sleepy fishing village it once was, Zihua is now among the many Mexican cities easily accessed from the United States with direct flights, modern amenities and English-savvy locals who are all too happy to show you around and point you toward the right pozole joint on a Thursday night.
Still, here are a few tips to make your trip south that much easier:
STAY
There’s something to be said about staying in town – and on the beach. And Avila gives you that luxury. It’s mostly a no-frills joint, but at rates of about $50, certain things (small rooms, questionable fans/air conditioners) are to be expected.
Being in town has its advantages, including the proximity of countless restaurants and the limited night life (mostly bars) inside Zihua proper. But it also has its disadvantages, and if you’re looking to get away from life surrounded by cars and concrete, you need to get out to the beaches – try Playa la Ropa! Avila, Calle Juan N. Alvarez 8, 755/554-2010.
Casa Cuitlateca is where the other half stays – and sometimes lives – in Zihua. It’s one of the most majestic properties in the area, a five-bedroom, all-inclusive villa that is now rented out as a vacation house ranging from $1,000-$1,200 per day. It’s not on the water, mind you, but it’s a five-minute walk down to the beach – and the service is top-notch, especially when you’re drinking mojitos in the infinity pool looking out over the bay and the surrounding town, which is five minutes away by car. Casa Cuitlateca, Calle Playa la Ropa, 755/554-2448.
SHOP
Like any other Mexican town of its size, Zihua makes it easy for you to find whatever you may need within blocks of Playa Principal, the town’s main beach. Calle Cinco de Mayo is lined with booths and mini-markets rife with everything from cheap souvenirs to 64-ounce cocktail slushies in Styrofoam cups.
The farther you stray from El Centro, the more authentic stores you’ll see. In 2000, Zihua got its first supermercado, and while the Comercial Mexicana changed the locals’ way of life – as the arrival of one-stop-shopping does everywhere – it’s yet another added convenience for the first-time traveler.
For a more authentic taste of how the locals live, check out the Municipal Market on Benito Juarez. Like any great locals-only market, this one has all five food groups displayed in a way we’re not accustomed to in America. Because of this, it’s often advisable to skip the meat, unless the refrigeration system seems to be more modern than you typically see around town. But the fresh fish and shrimp and wide variety of indigenous fruits and vegetables are worth the trip alone.
PLAY
Of Zihua’s five beaches, don’t miss out on a trip to Playa las Gatas, which was named after nurse sharks – not cats – that once occupied the area. This beach, which is reached only via footpath or water taxi (about $5 round trip from Zihua), is the most popular snorkeling beach in Zihua, and like the others, it’s also littered with small, homey seafood restaurants and gear-rental shops.
Legend has it that an Indian king had a man-made reef built to ensure his daughter had a safe swimming area, and while that tale can’t be nailed down, we do know that this beach is also a favorite for families because of the tame surf.
While you could easily entertain yourself for a week or two within the intimate environs of Zihua and its neighboring beaches, many often cab into Ixtapa for a more cosmopolitan evening. It’s a culture shock to see the high-rises that litter Ixtapa’s beaches – foreign to Zihua because of building and growth restrictions, thank goodness – but this midsized resort city has everything you would expect, from Carlos ‘n’ Charlie’s to Señor Frog’s. And a quick trip to Ixtapa – which isn’t quite world-class, more like a sibling to older brother resort Cancun – also helps you appreciate Zihua that much more.
DINE
Bandito’s is a favorite among tourists for its lively patio, recognizable food and live music, which is a piano player, most of the time. And while this is an excellent place to hit your first night out on the town – especially if you’re still nervous about being in a foreign country – it’s not worth more than a few visits. Bandito’s, Calle Pedro Ascencio 2, 755/553-8072.
Absolutely no trip to Zihua is complete without lobster, and Casa Elvira has always been a favorite stop for the dish. It’s served with epic amounts of butter that somehow never gets too oily. As you walk by the restaurant, which is just off the fish market, everybody has a massive plate in front of him. Casa Elvira, Paseo del Pescador 32, 755/554-2061.
Staff writer Ricardo Baca can be reached at 303-820-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com.
