INSIDER’S GUIDE
New Zealand
GET THERE
Air New Zealand and Qantas fly to New Zealand from Los Angeles and San Francisco (Air New Zealand has nonstops from LAX to Christ-
church).
Air New Zealand will ship a bike for no additional charge, including on its code-shares with United originating in Denver. Bikes need to be boxed and count as one piece of checked luggage.
New Zealand’s summer – our winter – offers the warmest weather on the South Island. Rainfall ranges from 115 inches annually in Hokitika to 200 inches at Franz Josef, but much of it is concentrated September through November. During my trip, we had four rainy days and four sunny, with one a mix of both – about average for March – and daytime temperatures on the coast ranged from the low 50s to the 70s.
More information: newzealand.com; 866-639-9325.
BIKE
Trek Travel (866-464-8735; trektravel.com) has six options February through April 2006. The trips ($3,095 for double occupancy) include eight nights’ lodging, most meals, snacks and activities, and bike.
Other bike tour companies offering South Island itineraries include Butterfield and Robinson (800-678-1147; butterfield.com); Pure Adventures (800-960-2221; pure-adventures.com); Active Downunder (800-425-9036; activedownunder.com); and Christchurch-based Cycle New Zealand (011-64-3-982-2966; cyclenewzealand.com).
It’s also possible to bike the west-
coast route independently, but note that accommodations between Hokitika and Wanaka are limited and spread out. There are plenty of good places to camp; a tent is a prerequisite.
BRING
When packing, remember one word: layers. The temperature variances and strong chance of rain means you’ll add and remove clothes throughout the day. Cycling shorts prevent chafing, and breathable synthetic shirts will wick moisture. Avoid cotton for all cycling and hiking. Bring a small box of detergent from home; most lodgings have laundry facilities.
A synthetic fleece vest and lightweight rain jacket are essential; I found rain pants to be of little value – my legs never got cold when riding.
Although roads are relatively smooth, cycling gloves ease the workout your hands get while gripping the handlebars. Sunscreen and sunglasses are musts.
Both Christchurch and Queens-
town have stores selling quality cycling and outdoor wear.
DINE
Multiple choices exist in Hokitika, Franz Josef and Fox Glacier, with excellent options in Wanaka and Queenstown. Restaurants along the route are casual, although some in Queenstown are dressy.
Many of these restaurants are on the main drag through the small towns they are listed in, which is why they have no street number.
Café de Paris, 19-21 Tancred St., Hokitika (03-755-8433). Kiwi-accented French cuisine.
Pete’s Possum Pie, State Highway 6, Pukekura (03-755-4008). Famous for feral treats (no, I’m not making that up).
Blue Ice Café, State Highway 6, Franz Josef (03-752-0707). Contemporary food at moderate prices downstairs and pizzas and pints upstairs.
Cook Saddle Café, Main Road, Fox Glacier, (03-751-0700). A “wild West”-type saloon with burgers and beer.
Wanaka the Ambrosia Restaurant, Golf Course Road, Wanaka (03-443-1255). New Zealand wines and an international menu.
PLAY
The three-hour heli-hike, included in the Trek bike tour, can also be purchased separately from Franz Josef Glacier Guides . Cost: $210 per person. Reservations are essential; 03- 752-0763 or explorefranzjosef.com.
