When the frost in the northern regions of the country appears on the morning grass like a thin layer of frozen powdered sugar and the temperatures in Phoenix finally drop below fry-an-egg-on-the-sidewalk, then it is indeed time to plan a long weekend – or longer – in the Valley of the Sun. The hiking, biking, climbing and restorative opportunities that are few and far between now in this part of the country, but hard not to trip over in Arizona, are ideal to alternate with the gourmet meals available in Phoenix-area restaurants, fed by a farm-team system of world-class cooking schools such as Scottsdale Culinary Institute. That makes it easy to get carried away with a vacation itinerary involving little else but pairing an outdoor activity in the Arizona sunshine with a stellar restaurant experience. In fact, why not? Read on to check out four of the best places to eat, along with four exhilarating places to work it off, all in the greater Phoenix area.
Wine and dine the palate and body
SAVOR: Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar
Snacking on small plates while sipping a glass of wine has surpassed trendy and moved into typical. Whether looking to eat lighter, longing to try more foods over the course of a meal or simply eager to dine in a different way, many diners eschew the entree and opt for four or five small plates paired with a flight of wines matched throughout the meal.
Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar in Scottsdale, a well-proportioned space in the back corner of a vast shopping complex, is ideally designed for just such an experience. The jazzy dining room, set off by a wave-shaped, glass-enclosed, 1,000- bottle wine “rack” and an exposition kitchen visible to nearly every table, the colorful eatery offers 31 tapas-style dishes as well as another half dozen sharing sides, each an intriguing combination of wine-friendly bold flavors and eye-pleasing bright colors, all priced to sell.
A few must-tries: foie gras with pickled grapes, fleur de sel and rosemary waffle ($8); frog legs drenched in garlic and basil pesto ($7); goat cheese rounds fried until caramel-crispy, coated in pistachios and sweetened with agave nectar ($5); and the molten chocolate lava cake ($6). The “bubbles” grouping of sparkling wines is fun ($23), or go for one of the many other wine flights, such as “big bad reds” ($18), or have one of the knowledgeable staffers steer you toward something that will go beautifully with your dishes.
Also note: There is a large parking garage below the restaurant; look for the hole to the left of the entrance, instead of trying to find anything in the insanity that is the parking lot.
Tapino Kitchen & Wine Bar, 7000 E. Shea Blvd., Scottsdale, 480-991-6887.
SWEAT: The Sanctuary
A personalized training session at Sanctuary Camelback Mountain, above, is not just another overpriced, yuppified workout where the trainer does all the work while the exerciser lets her just-done nails dry. This is exactly the kind of pampering vacation exercise that’s worth shelling out for, and the spa and fitness half of this resort hotel is open to the public.
The classes, guided hikes and assisted stretches get results – sometimes after just one confab. Case in point: Mike Masood’s assisted stretch ($75 for a half-hour, $125 for full) that involves his getting up close and personal with nearly every muscle, showing you where it should be able to reach, and then working it until it indeed goes there. Didn’t think your hip was supposed to do that? Masood explains why, in an evolutionary sense, it was meant to, and why it doesn’t anymore (think computers, TV watching and weekend-warrior lifestyles).
After a full-muscle makeover, find Melissa Branta for a personal-training session ($75-$125), where the information Masood shares with her about you helps her craft a regimen that can be incorporated into your at-home workout, using weights, band and ball or floor exercises. Branta is also available for guided hikes up Camelback Mountain ($100), which beckons just behind the spa and hotel’s environmentally appealing site. Or take a Pilates class ($125) with Shannon Jetté, whose commitment to proper form and overall balance may change the way you look at this trendy but ultimately beneficial form of calisthenics.
The ideal way to finish out a day at this tranquil resort is with a massage ($130-$190), and then a soak in one of the hot tubs and a restive bit of time next to a rock-lined meditation garden with a cup of tea and a view of Paradise Valley.
Sanctuary Camelback Mountain Spa and Resort, 5700 E. McDonald Drive, Paradise Valley, 480-948-2100.
Elegance, then a stroll
SAVOR: Arcadia Farms Cafe
At first glance it seems as though every Scottsdale lady who lunches sits upon a gingham-upholstered, wrought-iron chair inside the charming, 1950s farmhouse that is Arcadia Farms Café. It’s so popular since opening in 1990 that expansion now includes satellites in the Desert Botanical Garden, Phoenix Art Museum and Heard Museum, as well as a new City Bakery downtown.
But it’s this original site in Old Town Scottsdale that most captures the heart, with its walls of mallard duck-covered china plates, couch seating stuffed into alcove spaces and ruffled linens. Two umbrella-covered patio spaces offer alfresco dining when weather warrants, and the smell of fresh-baked bread lends an air of authenticity to an eatery as well-known for its baked goods as its menu of organically oriented, bistro-style goodies.
That roster is as respectable and quaint as the space: tarts stuffed with wild mushrooms and goat cheese ($12.95); thickly piled sandwiches of just-grilled ham ($10.95) or seasonal vegetables layered with smoked mozzarella ($11.95); lump crab cakes with spicy remoulade ($13.95). Daily soups such as white bean or tomato vegetable are hearty and served in large tureenlike bowls, and salads are big enough for two. It’s worthwhile to save room for dessert here, because temptations such as individual coconut-spackled white cakes ($6.50) and lemon pecan tortes are as good as they sound. Keep in mind that this is lunch only, Monday-Sunday, and reservations are essential.
Arcadia Farms Cafe 7014 E. First Ave., Scottsdale, 480-941-5665.
SWEAT: Base of Piestewa Peak
A genteel meal requires little more than a meandering walk that can be pushed up to hike status if dessert comes into play. The easygoing trails that circumnavigate Piestewa Peak – formerly known as Squaw Peak – in the Phoenix Mountains Park and Recreation Area at 24th Street and Lincoln Drive, are ideal for working off a moderate repast. And while you explore the robust desert ecosystem that encompasses this unique urban mountain preserve, you can look up at the astounding number of folks climbing higher, like ants on an escalator, toward the summit 1,190 feet above you.
The easiest trail is Dreamy Draw Nature Trail, 1-1.5 miles of gentle slopes, tamped-down dirt and few obstacles. The miler is considered a “children’s loop.” Expect to see horses (there’s a hitching post at the trailhead) and plenty of people with dogs on this one.
A little less inhabited and a bit more of a push is the 2.45-mile Quartz Ridge Trail, and more of a workout still is the Freedom Trail, which for hikers who worry about unleashed pets means freedom from them; dogs and horses aren’t allowed. This trail takes switchbacks up the northwest side of the peak and offers nice views along the ravine.
Though the crowds are overhead on this quieter journey, another draw of this part of Squaw Peak is that it’s a great place to run into gila monsters, horned lizards, several kinds of rabbit and coyotes. It’s also rattlesnake country, so keep your eyes peeled.
Piestewa Peak (Squaw Peak), the Phoenix Mountains Park and Recreation Area. For trail maps and descriptions, visit phoenix.gov/PARKS/hikephx.html.
Persistence and payoff
SAVOR: Rito’s Market Mexican Take Out
If you can find Rito’s Market & Mexican Take Out in this residential section of Phoenix, where even natives have been known to take a cab to make sure they get there, you can find your way on any unmarked trail in the middle of the desert anywhere.
The key to finding Rito’s is to remember that its owners really don’t want you to. It’s a house with no real sign, and for about 30 years the place has operated with a sort of “hey, this is what we have for you today” kind of philosophy. Red and green chile are givens, and the green is hot, as in Hades hot, and the red is less hot, but don’t be expecting not hot.
And don’t expect to sit down; there are no tables to speak of, and the few there are (outside) go to people who are welcome, which, remember, isn’t you. Everything is served on plastic, and you always have to ask about eight times for napkins.
So why go to Rito’s? Ah, because this is food of the gods: When they have the enchiladas ($7), they’re stuffed with tender cubes of beef, the green inside, the red outside. The beans are soft and meaty and slightly greasy, but in a good way, and the rice is al dente, steaming hot, not dry and crumbly. The tostadas ($6) come topped with a hand-mashed guacamole with just a hint of lime and garlic. And the tacos ($6) are filled with shredded beef so salty and juicy you’ll wonder why the Salinas family hasn’t franchised this place across the free world. Don’t bother to ask, because they won’t tell you. Note: cash only.
Rito’s Market & Mexican Take Out, 909 N. 14th St., 602-262-9842
SWEAT: Estrella Mountain Regional Park
The rough-and-tumble encounter you can have at Rito’s seems tailor- made to be followed by a mountain bike ride at Estrella Mountain Regional Park. Well off the beaten path, this is the kind of area you have to intend to get to, and once there it can be tough going along the way.
An 8-mile loop that offers sandy turns, lots of loose gravel and rock, short steeps and several technical sections, Estrella is almost entirely single-track. The first 2 miles are on dirt road that turns into trail, but a short climb puts you on the technical portion. The reward at the top is a breathtaking view of Gila Bend and the desert, and there are mountain views galore.
The two main trails to follow are Rock Knob Buggy Trail and Pack Saddle Historical Trail, which bring you down into a wash and back up again to the Rainbow Valley and Gadsen Trails. Keep an eye on the markers, because this is a very confusing and badly signed section. The good news is, no matter which way you go, you’ll eventually wind up back at the rodeo arena parking lot (be sure to pick up a map at the entrance).
The ride will take about 2 to 2 1/2 hours for beginners – who should be prepared to get off and walk the steeper, rockier sections – and one to two hours for intermediate to advanced. Add on extra mileage for an 11-miler with the side loop; confident riders can plan their return for sunset, which is absolutely stunning out here.
Estrella Mountain Regional Park (26 miles from Phoenix). Take Interstate 70 West to Estrella Exit. Go south 5 miles and then follow signs (take a left at the golf course and enter park on right). Trailhead is at rodeo arena parking lot. Cost is $5.
Climb, steak your claim
SAVOR: Donovan’s Steak & Chop House
This is one where by all rights the workout should come first, because a meal at Donovan’s Steak & Chop House should be earned. And a rich reward it is, from the cheerful valet parking to the warm welcome at the regal front door, the crisp, multitiered service that makes everyone feel like a celebrity to the wine steward serving a glass of well-rounded, berry- filled pinot noir ($16).
The dining room is all mahogany paneling and sumptuous, leather-
trimmed booths, mirror-reflected lighting and important-looking art, and the food echoes the atmosphere in all its attention-to-detail glory.
Servers tout the all-prime, all-the-time steaks, which elsewhere might not add up to flavor – true steak-lovers know other factors (aging, handling, grilling) can knock down a cut. At Donovan’s, the meat exceeds expectations, such as a 10-ounce filet ($35) marbled with just the right amount of fat for a ripple of flavor that hits every bite, the medium-rare request just right, a side of béarnaise ($2 extra) textbook perfect. Sides of steamed baby carrots and broccoli and potato choices come with (the garlic mashed potatoes are appropriately creamy). A starter of ice-cold iceberg with blue cheese dressing ($8.50) comes with lumps of flawless cheese; key lime pie ($7) is light but satisfying enough for a finale.
Donovan’s Steak & Chop House, 3101 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 602-955-3666.
SWEAT: Rock climbing in McDowell Mountains
When the sun stops melting plastic on the roads, the rock climbers come out, at least the ones who aren’t so hard core as to have been climbing at 4:30 a.m. all summer.
And it’s when the granite is finally cool enough to touch that the McDowell Mountains start to see action, the crags almost coming alive, the movement visible along the walls like spiders weaving webs. These are the workouts that take steaks off the body, push the toxins out for good. You want to drink wine after you take on one of these, not the night before.
Located in the northeast valley in the lower Verde River basin, the McDowells offer a variety of rock-climbing routes, mostly single-pitch, 5.0-5.12, with some bolted and some trad, along with bouldering opportunities and plenty of solid rock, although as with any climbing there are loose, flaky sections to keep things interesting.
Two crags are covered with enough varied climbs to keep a group of different levels challenged. The popular Sven Slab offers 14 between 5.2-5.11a, all packed on the weekends, especially the gently sloped face, which is ideal for beginners. Check out One for the Road, a 5.6 crack climb. Less populated is Morrell’s Wall, marked by chimneys, cracks, slabs and dihedral angles, with 22 climbs rated 5.2-5.11b. The most popular Morrell’s climb is Space Cadets, a 5.10a seam and crack climb with a Class 4 scramble at the top.
For details on the climbs in the McDowells or any other area of Phoenix, get “Phoenix Rock II,” by Greg Opland ($25, Chockstone Press).
McDowell Mountains (36 miles from Phoenix). Take Scottsdale Road north to Pinnacle Peak Road. Turn right on Pinnacle Peak and take to Dynamite Road. Turn right on Dynamite and take to 128th Street. Turn right on 128th and take to end (a little more than 3 miles). Individual crags are marked in guidebooks.
Arizona events in November
12-13|PHOENIX
Spanish Market
Nearly 70 Hispanic artists sell furniture, pottery, tinwork, textiles, santos. Mariachis, foods of the Southwest. Free entry to event; museum requires admission fee. Heard Museum, 2301 N. Central Ave., 602-252-8848
12-20|GILBERT
Gilbert Days 2005
Live rodeo, including team roping, barrel racing, Budweiser Rodeo, carnival, arts and crafts festival. Parade on the 19th at 9 a.m. Gilbert Rodeo Park & Downtown; for dates, details and discounts, go to gilbertdays.com.
18-19|WINDOW ROCK
Eighth Annual Keshmish Festival
Artists show jewelry, weaving, pottery, paintings, sculpture, dolls and more. Cultural events and performances. Free admission. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday; 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Saturday. Navajo Nation Museum, Arizona 64 and Loop Road, 928-871-7941.
18-20|TUCSON
Holiday Craft Market
More than 130 Southwest artisans offer photography, jewelry, clothing, garden art, sculpture and other items. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. Free admission to market and museum. Tucson Museum of Art, 140 N. Main Ave., 520-624-2333.
18-20|AJO
Ajo Great Western
Street Fair & Home Tour
Family activities. Kicks off with a dinner and dance Friday 6-10 p.m. Street fair Saturday 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Tour 10 historic homes Sunday 1-4 p.m., $10. 520-387-7742
18-20|FORT McDOWELL
Orme Dam Victory Days Celebration
Pow Wow, rodeo, concert, parade, BMX competition, various sports tournaments. Free admission; call for times. Rodeo Grounds, 480-816-7162 or ftmcdowell.org
18-27|CAVE CREEK/CAREFREE/SCOTTSDALE
Ninth Annual Hidden in the Hills
Artists Studio Tour
Weekends of Nov. 18-20 and Nov. 25-27, Sonoran Arts League, 150 artists at 46 locations open their private studios to the public. Free; self-guided, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily. Call 480-488-3381 for information.
25-26|PEARCE
Fifth Annual Old Pearce
Holiday Festival
Fiddlers and bluegrass, arts and crafts, food booths, antique engine display, Old Store museum open with historical displays and photo essay. Streets closed. 520-826-3588.
6|DOUGLAS
10th Annual Christmas Light Parade
Parade starts at 7 p.m. (arrive 6:15 for best view) and goes for 1 1/2 hours. More than 60 participants. Free. Downtown Douglas, G Avenue. Call 520-364-2496 for information.
26|PARKER
Parker Area Chamber of Commerce Lighted Boat Parade
At about 6 p.m., lighted boats sail down the Colorado River for 11 miles from the River Lodge Resort across from River Island State Park to BlueWater Resort and Casino, with prizes for boat decorations. Call 928-669-2174 for information.
