Penitente Canyon is home to some of the finest sport climbing Colorado has to offer. It is located on the west side of the San Luis Valley, and the mild climate allows climbing when many other areas are too cold. As winter draws near, consider a visit to this secluded spot.
The climbs tend to be steep, short and hard, on walls of volcanic tuff. The huecos, characteristic of this rock, offer strenuous, fun climbing on generally well-protected, bolted routes. Some fine trad lines can also be found here.
While most of the routes in Penitente and the surrounding canyons are in the 5.11-5.12 range, there are enough moderate routes to make a trip to this magical area worthwhile.
The Bureau of Land Management maintains trails in this area that offer enjoyable hikes for those not interested in the technical climbing.
A fine example of the climbing in this area is Captain America, one of the more popular routes (and in my opinion, at the upper end of the “moderate range”).
Climb description
The route heads up the prow of a steep, pocketed tower. Start by climbing up a low angle slab to the base of the tower. Consider moving your belay up to this point, because the crux is low down on the route, by the first bolt.
Continue up past two more bolts to chain anchors – upgraded from the original anchor. The climbing is steep, but the huecos offer positive holds. As you near the top, use sharp edges.
I recommend a number of other moderate routes in the main canyon too.
The Serpent, 5.8, is a very nice bolted route. The ground at the base of this route has eroded considerably, making a direct start more difficult. Consider bouldering up the direct start to clip the first bolt, then climbing the right edge of the face, a few feet to the right.
Another hueco-pulling fest, this short, steep climb is of high quality. Because the first bolt is 15 feet off the ground and the initial climbing is nontrivial (especially for shorter people), consider stick-clipping this first bolt. Either rappel or walk off down the slot to the right of the climb.
Farther up the main canyon, on the opposite side, is a short, fun warm-up climb (it gets morning sun) called Ms. Cool, 5.9.
On a day when this main canyon is busy, consider hiking over to the Rock Garden, or Witches Canyon, where you will find many more fine routes, including more in the moderate category.
For details, see Bob D’Antonio’s guidebook “Rock Climbing the San Luis Valley.”
Climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the safety of the route. This information is provided as a guide. We write about it; you take all the risks.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
The details
Approach: From the Denver area take U.S. 285 south over Poncha Pass to Saguache. From the intersection of Colorado 114 and U.S. 285 in Saguache, continue south on U.S. 285 for 17.7 miles. Turn right on G road (signed to La Garita and Penitente Canyon) and proceed 5.5 miles to La Garita; 0.6 miles beyond La Garita there is a Y-intersection. Take the left fork on a good dirt road. After a farther 0.9 miles turn right on the dirt road that leads into Penitente Canyon, reaching the trailhead parking area in 1 mile. From the parking area, walk into the canyon for 500 yards. The climb Captain America will be directly to your right.
History: The canyon is believed to have been occupied by American Indians 200 years ago, as evidenced by rock art and stone structures. In the 1700s Spanish settlers moved into the area. The canyon is named for the Brothers Penitente, a religious group. Folk art in the area reflects this influence. Route development started in the 1980s.
Gear: For Captain America, there are three bolts plus anchor chains, but bring your trad rack for some of the fine trad lines.
Amenities: Camping is available in and near the canyon for $5 per night. The best sites are the few just before the trailhead. The La Garita cash store offers supplies and meals. Casa de Madera, in Del Norte, is the closest climbing store.
