The canopy of Guatemala’s rain forests is fiercely dense and pulsating with life, and the majestic Patagonian plains are otherworldly in their immense, shapeless stature. The Yucatan’s endless sand highways running alongside the Caribbean are epic, unspoiled treasures, and the canyons, big and small, of Utah and Arizona are more than just national parks, they are natural history. They are art.
As overwhelming as all that natural beauty is, none of it will prepare you for Kauai, the “Garden Isle” and the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands.
Not Spain’s Balearic Islands or the White Cliffs of Dover in England. Not the cays of Belize or the elegant Zihuatanejo Bay/Pacific Ocean as seen from a beach chair sinking into the sands of Playa Las Gatas. Not the raw splendor of the Italian or French rivieras. Not Bohemia’s ancient rolling hills.
Think of the most beautiful place you’ve ever visited, and fill in the blank: No, _______ doesn’t compare to Kauai either.
A trip to Kauai is almost like cheating, “Traveling for Dummies.” The island is easily accessed, and everything is there. And you almost can’t believe it.
Rolling hills dominate the edge of the island, making for roller-coaster car trips meant to be rocked in a convertible. The ocean waters are everything from emerald blue to indecisive gray, depending on the beach, the coral reef, the time of the day and the mood of the weather.
Wooly-green mountains covered in foliage soar above the 5,000-foot mark; wistfully dry and tragically scenic canyons dive more than 3,000 feet; and incandescent rain forests thrive at the island’s core, which holds the distinction of being the wettest place on Earth. Its 460 annual inches of rainfall dwarfs Denver’s precipitation levels, which measure 15 inches per year.
Ought to be, and is, in pictures Kauai is one of the most geographically and meteorologically diverse places on Earth, with terrain that will never bore and weather that is nothing if not consistently sporadic. Chances are it has already wowed you, even if you haven’t yet made the trek. It has played a starring role in too many feature films to count, including “Raiders of the Lost Ark,” “South Pacific,” “Outbreak,” multiple “Jurassic Parks” and the animated “Lilo & Stitch.”
Kauai is the northernmost island in the Hawaiian archipelago, and it is young, geographically speaking, with about 4 million years under its belt. Like its sister islands, Kauai is the product of volcanic activity, the most recent of which was 40,000 years ago – which is some time span, considering neighboring Maui witnessed volcanic action less than 200 years ago.
The island is all about sun-fed mornings, pristine waters, energizing humidity, immaculate coral and the occasional early-evening rain showers – especially west of Hanalei Bay, which sits at the northernmost point of the island. But beyond the given beauty, the communities are built in a naturalistic way that matches the lush surroundings.
The townships rarely sprawl, save for the county seat and commercial center Lihue, home to the airport. Most of the time the Main Street-based communities, all of which sit on the island’s outskirts (or directly on the coasts, in most cases, as the interior of the island isn’t navigable), are centered around homey strip malls of coffeehouses, surf shops, organic grocers, restaurants and souvenir/clothing boutiques.
Erosion builds up beauty
Hanalei, for example, sits on the bay and is jumping with activity and life from early morning, when the bustling Java Kai coffee shack has a line outside its screen doors, until the wee hours, when an adventurous tourist can still find three or four restaurant/bars open serving macadamia nut liqueurs with live music to entertain.
The town of Hanalei, known and appreciated for its fertile soil and flavorful shave ices, is a picturesque midsized Hawaiian village that is beautifully integrated into the crescent-shaped bay (Hanalei means “crescent shaped”) on which it sits. From the town center, take the Aki or Malalo roads toward the water for easy, walking-distance access to the beach, which isn’t so populated. Walk east and take in the tranquil Hanalei Pier, built in 1892 and used by rice farmers until it was closed in 1933.
The pier, photographed on the cover of the Travel section, is open again. And it is an ideal spot to take in – to breathe in, ever so deeply – the island’s unyielding serenity. It is nature’s gift to humanity, in more ways than one.
Volcanic combat gave us the island, but erosion played a key part in shaping the tropical paradise. The 10-mile-long, 3,600-feet-deep Waimea Canyon is referred to as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific for good reason, and it was created by a massive fault break and formed by the Waimea River. (The Waimea Canyon State Park is only a few minutes from Kokee State Park, which has enough trails to discount the need for one of Kauai’s many overpriced helicopter tour operators.)
But the island’s most recognizable view is from atop the gorgeous Na Pali Coast along the northwest edge, which was created by waves and storms, and now, at certain parts, towers more than 4,000 feet above the crashing ocean below.
The Na Pali Coast is one of the most strenuous hikes in all of Hawaii. And as the jagged and scenic coastline is reachable only via boat, helicopter and foot, it is also one of the most popular hikes in all of Hawaii.
Which is saying a lot. Because there’s a lot to see.
Staff writer Ricardo Baca can be reached at 303-820-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com.
SEE
The Na Pali Coast (northwest coast of Kauai) is most thoroughly seen via helicopter, and boats also provide breathtaking views, but the cheaper alternative is by foot. The Kalalau Trail starts in Haena State Park at the northwest end of Kuhio Highway, and the 11-mile trail is advanced-to-moderate, ending at Kalalau Beach, with views all around.
The Waimea Canyon (inland on the west side of the island) is called the Grand Canyon of the Pacific, and that’s no hyperbole. There are hiking and picnic areas, but most important are the views that come naturally from the awesome perch: the gorgeous 3,600-foot drop of the gorge and the nearby Niihau Island.
The Wailua River (East Coast) is one of the state’s only navigable rivers, and it meanders through the lush east side of the island by two waterfalls (Opaekaa and Wailua) and the epic Fern Grotto, a frond-covered cave set in a tropical garden.
STAY
Grand Hyatt Regency Kauai Resort and Spa (1571 Poipu Road, Koloa; kauai.hyatt.com) is what you think of when you imagine Hawaii done luxuriously. Dondero’s is the classic Hawaiian (think seafood) restaurant, and Stevenson’s Library is the classy bar with cigars, billiards and cognac. “Drums of Paradise Luau Show” is the island’s best-known luau spectacular.
Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; princeville.com) is a 252-room luxury hotel on the island’s northernmost tip, just east of Hanalei. It’s got the basics, done up lavishly, of course – so expect fine dining, beachside luaus and huge views of Hanalei Bay. (Its restaurants are beautiful sunset spots.) But it feels distinctly less corporate than the 565-room Grand Hyatt – and you pay for that comfort.
Kapaa Sands (380 Papaloa Road, Kapaa; kapaasands.com) is one of the island’s many on-the-cheap options. (Think in the $100-a-night range.) This basic-yet-adorable set of beachfront condos provides more privacy than a hotel – each unit stands separately – with the constant access of a beautiful Kapaa beach and a pool.
EAT
Java Kai (5-5183C Kuhio Highway, javakai.com) isn’t serving breakfast burritos anymore – the intimate kitchen, under the demand of big business, no longer has the space for it. But order the Kauai Waffle, which is stacked high with fresh fruit and an indulgent scoop of whipped cream, and you will have enough to eat for two.
The Beach House Restaurant (5022 Lawai Road, Poipu; the-beach-house.com) is a south-shore treat you won’t soon forget. In this region, it goes without saying that the view is easy on the eyes. But the food here is also special. “The fish in Hawaii are unique,” chef Todd Barrett says on the restaurant’s website. “It’s very exciting to work with Hawaiian fish.” And it’s also very exciting to eat Hawaiian fish.
Caffe Coco (4-369 Kuhio Highway, Wailua; restaurateur.com/caffeco
co) is built in a quaint, restored plantation-era cottage, and its offerings tend toward the healthy with a proper vegetarian selection. Look for the lime storefront.
Café Hanalei and Terrace at The Princeville Resort (5520 Ka Haku Road, Princeville; princeville.com) is where the terrace is a lot more important than the café. Eating a meal here is a nice and all, and the light shining off Hanalei Bay is almost hypnotic. Most important: Don’t miss the delightful desserts, which aren’t afraid of local fruits and spices.
PLAY
Shave Ice Paradise or Wishing Well Shave Ice (both in Hanalei) are two of the best-loved mobile shave ice parlors on the island. (Not shaved ice, mind you. Shave ice.) It’s not so much an ice cone as it is an ultra-thin slice of ice (cut off an ice block with a sharp knife) soaked in rich flavors and consumed quickly before it melts. Don’t miss this Hawaiian tradition.
Hawaii Movie Tours (4-885 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa; hawaiimovietour
.com) show you the historic Hanalei Pier (photographed on this section’s cover), where “South Pacific” was filmed, and the wedding raft from the Elvis Presley feature “Blue Hawaii,” which was one of the three films The King filmed on Kauai. There’s a lot more, of course, from all three “Jurassic Parks” to the Harrison Ford bomb “Six Days Seven Nights.”
The Anini Polo Field (Anini Beach) features weekly polo matches at 3 p.m. Sundays from April to September.
Kauai Museum (4428 Rice St., Lihue; kauaimuseum.com) is the best place to fully understand the origins of the island, from the work of the Polynesians to the rice farmers’ lifestyles. The two buildings that house the museum – the Albert Spencer Wilcox building, built in 1924, and the William Hyde Rice building, built in 1960 – are alone worth the visit. But the artifacts inside complete the journey and answer a lot of questions that naturally come up while visiting the Garden Isle.
PARTY
Sushi Blues (upstairs, Ching-Young Village, Hanalei; sushiand blues.com) Easily one of the best crossover clubs on the island, Sushi Blues has it all – from ridiculously fresh sushi to good-times live music most nights of the week.
The Landing Pad (5-3541 Kuhio Highway, Princeville; 808-826-9561) Featuring some of the best blues in the area, this juke joint (next to the old Princeville Airport and the new Heli U.S.A. Heliport) is mellow but still fun.
Tahiti Nui (5-5134 Kuhio Highway, Hanalei; 808-826-6277) This basic cocktails-and-conversation spot features live music on the edge of town, but it is not known for its tiki drinks. (When asked what tiki drinks they served, the bartender flatlined: “We serve rum and cokes with lime.”) But it is homey, and a comfortable mix of locals and tourists.
The Lizard Lounge Deli (4771 Kuhio Highway, Kapaa; aloha.net/~kerin/lizard) offers live music on Wednesdays and Thursdays, but it is all about the 2-to-6 p.m. happy hour and the late serving schedule (food served hot until they close).
SHOP
Aunty Lilikoi’s Passion Fruit Products (9633 Kaumualii Highway in Waimea; aundtylilikoi.com) is passion-fruit central. Liliko’s (Hawaiians’ native name for the tropical fruit, named after the place it was first planted in the late-1880s) offers an amazing breadth of products, from passion fruit wasabi dressing to passion fruit mustard, passion lemon jelly to passion coconut syrup, passion fruit massage oil to passion fruit coconut soap.
Kauai Coffee Co. Visitor Center and Museum (1 Numila Road, Kalaheo; kauaicoffee.com) is west of Poipu and a place where javaheads get a hot cup o’ Joe – and also learn how Hawaiian coffee is grown, harvested, processed and graded.
– Ricardo Baca
