“Memoirs of a Geisha” – both the Arthur Golden novel and the film version of it – depicts the Gion, or geisha district, of yesteryear, but contemporary Kyoto remains a city lush with sensual experiences for even the most hurried of travelers. Take a walk through these picturesque streets, and you can experience the sights, sounds and sensations of the geisha’s “Floating World.”
No “Memoirs of a Geisha” scene is more memorable than when Sayuri and her lover meet briefly beneath the falling petals of a Yoshino cherry tree – and cherry blossom viewing remains a stunning glimpse into the heart of Japan. Visit in springtime – mid-March through early April – and if you time it right, you will see families, friends, lovers and groups of co-workers laughing and drinking under the pink-petaled boughs; some even bring a not-so-traditional karaoke machine to add to the ambience. The boughs of Kyoto’s Japanese maple trees are gorgeous all year round; the tree-lined walkways around the famous Kiyomizudera temple (on the outskirts of the city) offer especially picturesque vistas of the city.
Step back in time
Don’t be afraid to step off Gion’s Shimo-dori to discover something on your own. This centuries-old neighborhood still offers atmospheric wooden-slatted windows, narrow
alleys, delicate paper screens and bamboo fences. Withered grandfathers manicure impeccable gardens; children run on cobblestones; cats slink across the pavement like feline ghosts. A few minutes’ stroll will make you marvel at the beauty of this fascinating world.
Breathe deeply, and you’ll smell incense wafting from temple offerings, smells of cedar and pine and musk mixing with the amber evening light. Kungyoku-do, the most famous of Old Kyoto’s incense shops (right across from Nishi-Hongan-ji temple), sells a variety of traditional wari-byakudan and wari-jinko: small sticks of fragrant wood that burn with a delightful smell. Take a few home with you to remind you of the journey. Or leave one to smolder in a temple urn and make your wish come true.
A taste of tradition
Sample the traditional taste of yu-doufu: creamy, soft pieces of boiled tofu dipped in a savory ponzu-like broth. Te-uchi soba, handmade buckwheat noodles served steaming hot or refreshingly cold, are another Kyoto-
area specialty. It’s often possible to watch the master of the house making the day’s soba from the shop’s window. Seated at a tatami mat, with waitresses in yukata pouring tea, you can imagine geisha arriving to entertain a patron with games, conversation and an elusive smile.
As evening turns to night, wander Gion and keep your eyes peeled: The sight of a maiko (apprentice geisha) hurrying to her next appointment has not changed; done up in her kimono like a brilliant butterfly, she seems to be floating as she slips across the street. It’s fine to take a picture, but you may have to content yourself with an action shot, as these women rarely have time to strike a pose.
While much of the geisha’s world disappeared with World War II, tours, such as those given by Chris Rowthorn (chrisrowthorn.com), can include geisha entertainment – a close insider’s look at this unique part of Kyoto’s culture. Geisha are master singers and dancers, but they are also able to discuss high-level politics or play hard-drinking games with equal ease.
Pause to savor the senses of Gion. Listen to the tinkle of fuurin wind chimes, the rich gurgle of the Kamo River as it rushes beneath a gently curved bridge. Inhale the clean, crisp air and the smell of cedar smoke. Run your fingers along the ridges of rain-weathered cedar; touch rain-soaked moss in a temple garden. Feel the weight of an obi (the colorful cloth sash used to tie a kimono) or the softness of a silk kimono. The Kyoto of today may be different from 60 years ago, but the city still evokes – at every turn – the beautiful Floating World it was a half-century before.
Ray Bartlett covered Hokkaido and Kyushu for Lonely Planet’s “Japan.”
Insider’s guide
STAY
Experience something different by staying overnight in an actual Kyoto temple. Myoshin-ji Daishin-in offers rooms with shared bathroom and access to a beautiful stone garden for $50 per person; guests have the option of participating in a morning prayer service (011-81-75-461-5714). Ritzy accommodations right in the Japan Railway station are at Hotel Granvia Kyoto (granvia-kyoto.co.jp/e/index.html), a five-star hotel with rooms from $160 per night.
EAT
Enjoy yu-doufu at Okutan (011-81-75-771-8709, Nanzen-ji), one of the oldest restaurants in Kyoto. Meals run about $30. Kanei Teuchi Soba (pastorella.web.infoseek.co.jp/eat_kanei.html) offers handmade soba noodles; a meal costs about $9. For dessert, head to Kinana, a Gion ice-cream shop (011-81-75-525-8300, kyo-kinana.com) for unique flavors such as kinako, a maltlike powder made from soy; two scoops cost $6.
