With the benefit of hindsight, I can see our trip a bit more clearly. A few tips that can be adapted for fellow travelers with kids: What we did right Found a local festival: When we went to the annual jousting tournament in Arezzo, Giosto del Saracino (Saracen Joust), it became immediately apparent this spectacle was put on not for the foreign tourists but for the locals. From the parade through the streets to the main event on horseback in the town’s center, these very serious warriors in 13th-century garb were not to be taken lightly. And certainly the spectators didn’t as they cheered, sang and wept their particular team on to victory. We had no idea what was going on around us but were completely captured by the spirit.
Brought a portable DVD player: Now before all of you travel purists gasp, this actually came in very handy in an unexpected way. We thought the kids would watch movies on the long plane ride but the seat- back movies on British Airways took care of that. Our DVD player as well as the CD player and Gameboy were helpful when the kids felt overwhelmed or needed to unwind. It gave them something familiar in unfamiliar surroundings.
Open-air restaurants: We had one of our best meals in Italy in a very fancy Florence restaurant that just happened to open up to a piazza. After the kids ate they went to play tag and chase pigeons. We were able to keep watch while lingering over dessert and wine. Ditto in Bettolle where our favorite local restaurant was located next to the town’s playground.
Redemption walk: When things go wrong – and they will – find a way to salvage the day so the bad thing does not define it. When we were in Rome my husband’s wallet was pick-pocketed on the subway. It was very unnerving for everyone. It was also our last day in Rome. So with the kids under the watchful eye of our hotel proprietor, we took a stroll through Rome’s night and ended up near the ancient ruins. Ironically that is where we were headed when his wallet was stolen. But at night there was no one around and the lighted ruins seemed magical.
What we did wrong
Overbooked our time: We had such a long list of places we wanted to see in Tuscany that we made the mistake of trying to do too much. One day we tried to go to two hill towns, a lake and then Umbria to buy pottery. Big mistake. We should have done just one thing (I would have voted for the pottery). Our villa had a pool and lovely grounds, but we were barely there long enough to take advantage. A better strategy would have been one “chill-out” day where we mostly just hung out.
Relied too much on guidebooks: I have one very vivid memory of us walking around in circles for more than an hour through the back streets of San Giminignano trying to find a specific restaurant recommended by a guidebook. When we finally found it, it was closed. What a waste. We had many wonderful meals by just following our noses and stumbling upon places. The sense of discovery beats a four-star rating any day.
Rome: If I had to skip one stop on our itinerary, it would have been Rome. It is a very big city, spread out and not especially kid-friendly. We did the obligatory touristy things but felt somehow underwhelmed. Maybe it was the time of year. In September it was still very crowded, and I felt claustrophobic being constantly jostled. It was also more worrisome trying to keep track of the kids on busy city streets as opposed to smaller towns or even Florence where pedestrians ruled.
Keeping too tight a budget: The financial planners might take exception with this one, but everyone should allow themselves at least one splurge. A fabulous meal, a night in a spectacular hotel or, in my case, a butter-soft leather jacket in Florence. Cut back somewhere else if you must, but let your fantasy “Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous” take over at least for a little while.
