You never know what to expect when you enter Mezcal, the restaurant-bar across from the Bluebird Theater that is popular with artists, teachers, musicians and locals.
Not that the place is trying to surprise its patrons. It’s just that on one night the food might be incredibly good, and the next night it is just OK.
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Same with the cocktails: Some nights the margaritas – and they have an impressive selection – are a perfect mélange of tarty citrus and smooth tequila. Other nights, you’re tempted to send it back.
Still, coming to Mezcal is always a good idea. Even when it’s OK, it’s still darned good.
The atmosphere is lively, the wait staff sassy, and there’s never a wait for a table. Rock blares from the speakers. We only wish that they were playing rock en español.
The three of us arrived hungry, so we started with guacamole and chips ($5.95). it arrived immediately, as it should, but some ingredients were missing.
It needed fresh cilantro and more finely chopped jalapeño. The totopes or “tortilla chips” didn’t taste freshly made – then again, most restaurants don’t fry their own batches. Still, it was a yummy appetizer.
We ordered the chicken in red mole sauce ($10.75), a flavorful hybrid of red chile sauce blended with chocolate mole. The dish comes with rice and black beans, but a carb-conscious friend substituted veggies – sautéed zucchini and peppers – for the rice. (The restaurant gets extra points for allowing finicky eaters to swap.)
The chicken was tender and the sauce tasted sinful, and the chocolate didn’t overpower the way many moles do.
The combination No. 6 – chicken tostada, cheese enchilada and chile relleno – is a steal at $8.95, as are all their combination plates. (Think gooey cheese melting into a tangy sauce over an array of delightful Mexican staples.) The chile relleno was a bit on the sweet side, and would’ve worked better with green chile instead of red.
The best dish was the lamb barbacoa (at $12.95, one of the most expensive items on the menu). It’s a shank of lamb perched on smooth whipped potatoes and drenched in a spicy, tangy sauce that brings an instant smile.
Of course, I frowned when I found out the restaurant removed this item from the menu, though it promises to bring it back in the fall.
I can attest from many visits that the queso fundido ($4.95), an appetizer of melted cheese with chorizo (or soyrizo for vegetarians) and flour tortillas, is to die for. The grilled skirt steak ($12.95), served with rice and black beans, is delicious and satisfying.
If money is tight, wait until after 10 p.m., when the restaurant offers $1 tacos.
Staff writer Cindy Rodríguez can be reached at 303-820-1211 or crodriguez@denverpost.com.
Mezcal
Mexican |3230 E. Colfax Ave., 303-322-5219 |$1-$12.95| Open 11 a.m.-2 a.m. weekdays, 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. All major credit cards. Street parking.
Front burner: A friendly wait staff that works hard to please.
Back burner: Food and drinks can be inconsistent. Sometimes the music is too loud.
