GENEVA, Switzerland — If your travels take you to Geneva, Switzerland, gateway to the Alps, you could be the first on your block to experience the city’s hottest new makeover.
Hotels, even the Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues, don’t usually make headlines, especially here in Geneva. Headquarters of the International Red Cross, the World Health Organizations, the European United Nations and 200 other prestigious and high-minded foundations, the city, in the French-speaking region, is better known for its global good works.
But visiting dignitaries need some place to unpack their bags and entertain colleagues. Already noteworthy for its Il Lago restaurant and well-trained European staff, the Four Seasons des Bergues’ 68 rooms and 35 suites have been in demand from day one.
Since it opened, in fact, in November 2005, the hotel has been almost fully booked. Even Bishop Desmond Tutu might have to ask twice for a room, a problem you’ll have, too, if you don’t plan ahead. But, as becomes obvious when you check in, this neoclassic beauty feels more like a stately home than a hotel.
The location, site of the old Hotel des Bergues, a historic landmark built in 1834, is a five-minute walk from the city center and 10 minutes from the train station. If you didn’t have luggage, you wouldn’t need a taxi. But it’s the professional restoration and attention to detail that has everyone talking.
“We knew that local people were asking, ‘what will they do to our grande dame?’ ” said Jose Silva, the general manager, who moved over from the Four Seasons Hotel Ritz, in Lisbon, for the November opening. “Fortunately, we had the original building plans, which showed exactly what the hotel looked like.”
After recreating the best historic features, the design team used contemporary tools to heighten the effect, said Silva. For instance, computer-controlled lighting, adjusted throughout the day, simulates the combination of natural light and candles that would have been used in 1834.
The end result feels tastefully luxurious and invitingly casual. The entrance hall, with its soaring neoclassical arches, a ceiling cupola, and delicately designed moldings and wall ornaments, leads you into the living room.
Here, coffered ceilings and recessed lighting cast a warm glow on the blue-and-white silk wall coverings and early 19th-century French furniture. An intimate collection of eccentric regional paintings and quaint antique store finds complete the look.
“Did you think these were valuable antiques?” said Alexandra Rys, the hotel’s press attache. “Amazing, isn’t it? There’s not one thing here of significant value, just lots of charming pieces that work together”
The remodel, which eliminated 20 guest rooms, enlarged the suites. The guest rooms, with wainscoting, painted ceiling trim, custom-designed wallpapers and Louis-Phillipe period furniture invite you to come in and sit down. The amenities are a given: a huge tub, separate shower, hair dryer, a wet bar, flat-screen TV with a keyboard for Internet access, and a DVD player. There are huge closets, of course, and fluffy bathrobes. On the first floor, there’s the requisite business center. The fitness center and juice bar are on the top floor.
Reserve a table in advance at Il Lago, which serves Northern Italian cuisine. If the dining room is full, tuck into the Bar des Bergues, a clubby room with wood paneling and soft lighting. This is the place for a martini and the “starters” menu.
What really makes this hotel great? Like every Four Seasons hotel, it’s a unique property, unlike any other, anywhere. Designed for Genevan sensibilities, it’s of and for this city.
INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE:
The Four Seasons Hotel des Bergues is at 33 Quai des Bergues, 1201 Geneva, Switzerland. Call 41(0) 22 908 7000, or visit www.fourseasons.com. Double rooms start at about $680 (895 Swiss francs).
Travel Tips: Switzerland is not a member of the European Union and therefore does not accept the EU currency, the Euro. Get Swiss francs before arriving and exchange them when you leave. For more activities around Lake Geneva, see www.lake-geneva-region.ch.
Anne Z. Cooke and Steve Haggerty explore the world from Venice, Calif. They can be reached at TravelsWithAnne@cs.com.
