Planting a tree incorrectly can lead to a variety of problems, including irregular growth patterns, leaf and twig dieback, girdling roots, increased susceptibility to disease and insects, and even plant death.
It may take years for these problems to reveal themselves, but by then, it’s too late to remedy the situation.
This is especially true of larger trees, which have a greater amount of starch reserves and can survive longer in poor situations.
To ensure a healthy tree, take these planting steps:
After purchasing a tree, tightly secure it in a vehicle large enough to accommodate it. Cover exposed parts with a tarp to reduce desiccation. Winds of 60 mph or greater can harm leaves.
Transport the tree in the morning to avoid, hot drying sun. Be gentle when handling or you could break the small absorbing roots the tree relies on for water and nutrient uptake.
If the tree is to be stored for any length of time, the root ball should be covered with mulch or dirt and watered daily. Place the tree in a partly shaded area until you are ready to plant.
Dig the hole two to three times the width of the root ball. Be sure not to dig the hole too deep. The root flare, the lowest part of the tree stem that begins to flare out to form the buttress roots, should be slightly higher than the existing grade.
Trees should be planted 2-4 inches above the existing soil line. The No. 1 problem in Colorado is planting trees too deep, which deprives the root system of needed oxygen.
Gently set the root ball into the hole. Letting the tree drop into the bottom of the hole will break fine absorbing roots. If the tree is too large to be handled easily and no equipment is available, dig out a ramp and carefully roll the tree on its bottom edge into the bottom of the hole.
Remove the top two-thirds of the wire basket and burlap and all the nylon twine. Begin to backfill the hole. If you are using compost, peat moss or any other amendment, use it sparingly. No more than a quarter of the backfill soil should be amendments. Gently tamp down the backfill to reduce large air pockets. Continue until the backfill reaches the top edge of the root ball. Do not put any soil on top of the root ball; the root flare should be exposed. Slope the soil from the top of the root ball down to the existing grade. Water the backfill and allow the backfill to settle.
Stake the tree if it is in a windy location or a high-traffic area. Remove after one year, unless the location is very windy. All stakes, straps, and braces should be removed after two years.
Apply mulch over the exposed soil to help retain moisture, reduce weeds, and keep weed trimmers and lawn mowers away. Mulch should not touch the bark of the tree and should not be more than 4 inches deep.
Water the tree once a day for the first two weeks, once every two days for the next week, and then once every three days for the rest of the growing season.
Robert Brudenell is a certified master arborist and owner of The Natural Way Inc. Send questions to robert@thenaturalwayinc.net.
