Eric Calderon, vice president and general manager of the Little Nell Hotel
in Aspen, probably knows as much, if not more, than any upscale hotel
manager anywhere about the effect a “celebrity chef” can have on hotel
business.
As “signature” chefs, “celebrity” chefs and “name” chefs grab
cuisine-media headlines on a daily basis, Calderon confidently calls on his
18 years at the Little Nell to gauge the movement, taking what a connoisseur
might call a lukewarm but seasoned stance on a chef’s role in helping fill
high-end, resort-priced rooms.
“Having a ‘name’ chef in the kitchen is a double-edge sword,” says Calderon.
“We have found, and I suspect others have as well, that a more expensive
chef may not necessarily be worth the effort and cost. What counts is the
word-of-mouth of having plain, good food. The truth is that, right now we
don’t have a celebrity chef. He (Little Nell’s current chef, Ryan Hardy)
will become one by being with us and because of his talent. He’s the best
chef we’ve ever had, but he’s not a Wolfgang Puck.”
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