A 19th-century food writer once said of Bologna’s cuisine: “When you hear mention made of Bolognese cooking, drop a little curtsy, for it deserves it; it’s rather heavy, but oh, how succulent!”
Often called Bologna la grassa, “Bologna the fat,” this epithet is used in the most flattering way to honor the foods of this gastronomic capital of north-central Italy — the home of tagliatelle, tortellini, pappardelle, lasagna, and the birthplace of the meat ragu known as Bolognese sauce. The city is also known as la turrita, “the turreted one,” for its many medieval palaces and churches, and la dotta, “the learned one,” as it’s the site of Europe’s oldest university. All in all, it’s a wonderful city to visit and too often ignored by those in a rush to Rome, Florence and Venice. My advice: don’t miss it.
Start with Bologna la grassa. Whether you intend to sightsee, take in an opera, or just wander around the city under its stunning porticos, you’ll encounter hundreds of inviting trattoria, osteria, pizzeria, salumeria, pasticceria and panificio that contribute to its reputation. Sampling cucina tipica Bolognese (typical regional food) can actually amount to a full-time job, starting with some of the pastas said to have originated in Bologna — tagliatelle (supposedly created to emulate Lucretia Borgia’s golden hair), tortellini (little rings of dough stuffed with chopped meats and served in consomme), cappelletti (“little hats” stuffed with ricotta cheese and minced chicken), and lasagna (wide noodles baked with ragu Bolognese).
Begin your visit at historic Piazza Maggiore, where you’ll find native Bolognese happily mingling with street performers and visitors and generously offering to snap their photos in front of the square’s picturesque monuments and palaces. The 16th-century Fountain of Neptune is one of the most popular, as is the Basilica of St. Petronious, the largest church in the city, or D’Accursio Palace, Bologna’s town hall. The Banchi Palace dates to the second half of the 16th century, its scenic facade built to hide the narrow streets of the medieval market lying behind.
But that’s where the fun begins, especially on a Saturday afternoon when the markets are bulging with shoppers hunting down perfect meats, cheeses, pastas and wine. Some of the most well-known food shops in the city are located here in a labyrinth of streets with names like Via Orefici, Caprarie, Ranocchi, and Pescherie, originally named in accordance with the activity of the artisans and sellers who used to work here. Via Pescherie Vecchi, with both indoor and outdoor stalls, is named for the fish sellers who trade here; Vicolo Ranocchi is so-called because frogs, once plentiful in this vicinity, were a traditional Bolognese specialty. Toruing Mercato di Mezzo or Mercato delle Erbe, a covered vegetable and fruit market, invites an afternoon amble for visitors, even if only for window-shopping and wishful thinking.
A more exciting way to capture the essence of Bologna’s near obsession with food, though, is to book a meal through Home Food Association. This cultural group, technically called Association for the Protection of the Typical Gastronomic and Culinary Heritage of Italy, offers visitors a unique opportunity to taste traditional foods cooked by a “Cesarine,” the title given to the cooks and hostesses who open their home to strangers for the sole purpose of sharing their family recipes and passion for cooking.
We shared our Home Food experience with two women visiting Bologna from other parts of Italy and two French businessmen at the apartment of Luisa Mambelli, our hostess. After arriving at her home on the edge of Giardini Margherita, a lovely park on the southeastern side of the city, we were welcomed with an aperitif and homemade bread. When we settled into her dining room, Luisa produced the menu for the evening, with each course chosen to reflect a special aspect of Bolognese cuisine: to start, “soup in a sack” (small polenta-like cubes served in clear consomme), that’s named for the method of preparation; then leek pie with mortadella-stuffed cabbage; braised rabbit with marrow and duchesse potatoes (a recipe from Luisa’s grandmother) for the main course; and a flourless chocolate cake made with local chocolate for dessert. Local wines complemented each course.
On some occasions, a “Cesarine” might invite her guests to join her for shopping at the market, or to assist her in the preparation of the meal. For a calendar of dinners or to make private arrangements, visit www.homefood.it.
Other gastronomic experiences taking place in the suburbs of Bologna include “Tartufesta,” an all-truffles fair held in villages like Sasso Marconi, Savigno, and Castel d’Aiano each September and October, and guided wine tasting, tours, and itineraries through the Colli Bolognesi hills from May to November. Visit www.collibolognesi.it for a schedule of events.
A tour of Bologna la turrita should begin at Le Due Torri, the 12th-century twin towers of which the Bolognesi are so proud. From Piazza Maggiore, the towers — also known as Asinelli and Garisenda for the two families who originally built them — stand slightly off balance at Piazza di Porto Ravegnana. Apparently, the Bolognese were rather obsessed with tower-building in the 12th and 13th centuries, and noble families built them as living quarters and as protection from one another. The only two surviving ones actually aren’t much of a start for a “tour,” but if you climb the 500 steps of Asinelli, the taller of the two, you are rewarded with a stunning panoramic view of the city and a reminder of what medieval Bologna might have looked like when hundreds of towers dotted the landscape.
From Asinelli, you can see the towering Santuario di San Luca, the guardian angel of the city that rises almost 1,000 feet above it on the Colle della Guardia, one of the first foothills of the Apennines. Housing the icon of the Blessed Virgin Mary of St. Luke, a visit to the 11th-century church requires a short bus ride outside the city (take bus no. 20 to Villa Spada) and then a hike under the 666 arches that run from Saragozza Gateway to the shrine. Said to be one of the longest arcades in the world (nearly 4 kilometers long), the Bolognesi built the porticoed sidewalk over a period of 65 years from 1674.
If you believe John Grisham, who set much of his novel “The Broker” in Bologna, wealthy merchants, artisans, and noble families financed the arch-building project and hung plaques opposite them to be remembered. Grisham also reminds us that there is a Cosepuri Minibus that will transport pilgrims to and from the sanctuary without benefit of the climb. For the full experience, I recommend you take the walk.
INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE
WHERE TO STAY:
Grand Hotel Baglioni, 8 Via Indipendenza (225445, www.baglionihotels.com), is situated in Bologna’s historic center, steps away from Piazza Maggiore. It’s furnished lavishly with antiques and paintings and caters to guests who are looking for a grand hotel atmosphere. The 18th-century building was originally a bishop’s seminary and was converted to a hotel in 1911. In 2002, its 124 rooms and suites were modernized. Suites are named for artists like musician Giuseppe Verdi and contemporary painter Giorgio Morandi. Its Carracci Restaurant, famous for its Carracci School frescoes, is considered one of the most elegant in the city.
Corona D’Oro, 12 Via Oberdan (236456, www.coronaoro.hotelsbologna.it/), is a palazzo-style property, once home to the noble Azzoguidi family. Renovated in 2004, the 35-room hotel preserves the architectural features of several periods from the medieval coffered ceiling in the meeting rooms to frescoes painted on the ceilings of many the bedrooms. The hotel is a short distance from Piazza Maggiore and some of the rooms have views of the famous Two Towers. Bed and breakfast rates range from 246 euro to 351 euro for a double room.
Jolly Hotel, Piazza XX Settembre (281611, www.jollyhotels.com) is a member of Italy’s leading hotel chain. The four-star, 156-room property is a short distance from the historical center and across from the rail station, making it a perfect location for those traveling to Bologna by train. The Amacord Restaurant offers international and regional specialties, and a free shuttle service to and from the airport and train station is provided. Double room “Saver Rates” with breakfast start at 145 euro; standard rates from 205 euro to 255 euro.
Sofitel, 59 Viale Pietramellara (248248, www.sofitel.com), is also close to the railway station, and offers all the amenities you’d expect from a member of the worldwide Sofitel/Accor chain of hotels and resorts. Its 244 rooms are spacious and modern with high-tech amenities; bathrooms are large; squash courts, swimming pool, and fitness centre are close by. Double rates range from 150 euro to 260 euro and include breakfast.
Art Hotel Novecento, 3-4 Piazza Galileo (7457311, http://novecento.hotel-bologna.net) is a designer hotel decorated in a modern representation of Viennese Secession style. Situated in the heart of Bologna’s medieval city center, the hotel’s 25 spacious rooms set dark wooden furniture against a palette of bright colors and mirrored walls. Double rates range from 185 euro to 195 euro and include a buffet breakfast.
WHERE TO EAT:
Ristorante Donatello, 8 Via A. Righi (235438), has been under the supervision of the Fanciullacci family since 1903. The art-filled restaurant in Bologna’s historical center serves typical Bolognese cuisine, with all first-course dishes based on homemade pastas (tortellini dressed in rocket, nuts, and cream is a specialty) followed by a wide selection of grilled meats. While the cooking is based on traditional foods, the preparation is generally quite creative. A three-course dinner for two without wine is 50 euro to 62 euro. Closed Saturday and Sunday; reservations suggested.
Carraci, 2 Via Manzoni (222049), on the lower level of the Baglioni Hotel, is one of the city’s most elegantly appointed restaurants. While dining under its frescoed ceiling, you can choose from a regional menu — culatello with Parmesan flan, tortellini in capon consomme, roast rabbit braised in local Colli Bolognesi wine — or from more continental choices such as foie gras, scampi tempura, or pre-sale loin lamb chops. A three-course dinner for two without wine 85 euro to 100 euro. Open daily for lunch and dinner; reservations suggested.
Ristorante Bolognese, 1 Via Boldrini (248293), is located near Piazza XX Septembre and the railway station. In operation since 1937, the antique-style restaurant has an arched brick ceiling, walls lined with wines, and inviting assortments of cheese and antipasti well displayed. Pasta (tortellini with butter and sage), grilled meats (veal cutlet “alla Petroniano”), mixed boiled meats in winter, and seasonal mushroom and truffle dishes are highlights. Three-course dinner for two without wine 42 euro to 52 euro; priced fixe menu 15.50 euro. Open for lunch and dinner daily except Sunday.
Osteria De’ Poeti, 1 Via de’ Poeti (236166), offers an inviting antipasti menu of local salamis (culatello and mortedella are specialties) along with typical pastas like risotto with Taleggio cheese and porcini mushrooms, and gnocchi with mushrooms and “extravecchio” Parmigiano-Reggiano. The restaurant is located near the Two Towers in an atmospheric 14th-century building with original groin vaults, fireplace, and wine cellar. A three-course dinner for two without wine 35 euro to 45 euro. Open for lunch Tuesday to Friday, dinner Tuesday to Sunday.
Trattoria La Braseria, 2 Via Testoni (264584), offers homemade pastas daily (meat ravioli with cheese and red wine, and stricchetti with zucchini, peas, and ham are specialties), Tuscan-style grilled steaks, and interesting fish specialties on Thursday and Friday. Open for lunch and dinner daily, except Sunday. Three-course dinner for two without wine is about 55 euro.
VISITOR INFORMATION:
The Tourist Information Office in Bologna is at Piazza Maggiore, inside the Emporio della Cultura (246541). Guided tours take place daily from this starting point. Other offices are at the Railway Station and at G. Marconi Airport. For general tourist information, visit www.bolognaturismo.info. For information on all of Italy, visit www.italiantourism.com.
The country code for Italy is 39; the city code for Bologna is 51. All phone numbers are for local calls. The currency unit is the Euro.
