Pagosa Springs – What a difference a day can make.
On Day 1 of Ride The Rockies on Sunday, I had to contend with a balky bike and adverse accommodations.
The duo working the bike-tech tent for Sports Authority managed to save me from riding the six-day, 419-mile tour with faulty brakes. As for lodging, I pause before fussing when I consider the many cyclists who pitch tents and shower in trucks throughout the tour. In this instance, I beg leeway, for an online travelogue such as this is lost without Internet access.
The inn in Durango did not have it. It did have a room with a bathroom sink adjacent to a kitchen sink. And there were a pair of amenities: one packet by the tub marked “shampoo” as well as another packet by the tub marked “shampoo.” But the malfunctioning Internet service transformed a long day into a late-night scavenger hunt.
Feeling like a fraternity pledge at day’s end, I self-soothed: Come Monday, it’ll be all right.
I started Day 2 of the tour by trading in my mountain bike for a high-performance roadbike from Moots, a manufacturer based in Steamboat Springs. I was “demo-ing” the bike for an unheard of price – free – and set off from Fort Lewis College in Durango for an 87-mile ride to Pagosa Springs astride a bike frame weighing in at a cozy 2.9 pounds.
During the first 15 miles, which were mostly uphill, I began to get a handle on how to negotiate the gears on a roadbike. The next 15 miles were only the finest biking experience of my life.
Gentle ascents and descents into Bayfield on a curly rural route with little traffic through scenic ranchland made for pedaling nonpareil. On this stretch, I began to learn why roadbikes are the critics’ choice for these types of tours. The machines simply glide.
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TODAY’S DESTINATION:
CHAMA, N.M. |
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It was a hot day with plenty of climbing, with miles 55-80 mostly uphill. Astride the roadbike, however, a surely 10- to 11-hour ride for this hack was reduced to eight hours.
When I returned the bike to Moots welder Jason Hosking and miter man Andy Karolczek, I asked for a “group hug.” I settled for a high-five from Hosking and a paralyzingly delicious bottle of water from Karolczek.
Soon thereafter, I checked into the inn at Pagosa Springs to find my luck continuing. There was Internet access. There was shampoo and conditioner. And did I mention the natural hot springs?
The storied Great Pagosa Hot Springs were adjacent to the inn.
As I soaked the sailor’s knot between my shoulder blades in these mineral-rich waters, I got to thinking. I wished that all tomorrows were like this here today.
* TUESDAY: Pagosa Springs to Chama, N.M., 50 miles
Random profiling
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| Dulin with “John H. DeDoll” |
COLLEEN DULIN
* Hometown: Denver
* Age: 37
* Occupation: Attorney
* Make of bicycle: Orbea
* How many RTRs, including this one: One
* Reason for participating in RTR: “My idea of a vacation is to be outside and to do something active”
* Favorite RTR scenery: The sea of tents on the campground on the day of registration
* Favorite RTR munchie: “Potato chips and olives”
* Favorite RTR memory: A run-in with “the woodcarver dude,” aka wood sculptor Dave Sipe of Mancos
* What would you be doing at this moment if you weren’t on RTR: “Sitting on my porch drinking wine”
DenverPost.com sports producer Bryan Boyle is participating in the 2006 Ride The Rockies. The raging amateur’s series runs each day of the June 18-23 event, which follows a 419-mile course from Cortez to Cañon City.
To share any RTR-related experiences, fears, advice or yarns, send an e-mail to Bryan at bboyle@denverpost.com.
