Emily Harrington can pull rock like no other. The 19-year-old CU student last fall became the first woman to climb 5.14 in Rifle Canyon when she sent the ridiculously steep Zulu route. Earlier this summer Harrington was awarded the Everest Award for climbing, one of the outdoor industry’s most prestigious awards.
What’s your best training technique?
I think the best training for climbing is climbing. I think climbing outside makes me a better all-around climber, both mentally and physically. As far as training techniques go, I don’t really do anything specific, but I do like to run for cross-training.
What’s your worst injury?
I’ve been super lucky, just a sprained ankle and a few finger tweaks, nothing to complain about.
Most frightening moment?
I used to be terrified of falling, I would be frozen on the wall, petrified and crying. I was a huge drama queen. Thankfully, I got over all of that and haven’t had any real epics that traumatized me.
How do you push through mental fatigue?
I have to have a goal in mind – a competition coming up, a route I want to do – something to remind me that I will be rewarded for all my hard work.
Who do you admire most?
I really admire Tommy Caldwell because he excels in all aspects of the sport – he can boulder, sport climb and trad climb insanely hard. Also, he cut off his index finger a couple of years ago and continues to be the best.
What music revs you up for a big contest?
I really like classic rock – The Beatles are my favorite even though they don’t really get me revved. For me, I use music to calm me down and help me relax.
Best advice you’ve ever received?
Don’t sweat the small stuff – when things get hectic, take a step back, see the big picture, and focus on what’s really important.
What do you know now that you didn’t know then?
Family is more important than anything else because no matter what happens, they will always be there.
How do you think the status of women has changed in rock climbing over the past decade?
We’ve come a long way. Women have broken many barriers in the last decade and gained a lot more respect. Not many people doubt a women’s ability to climb hard anymore.
