I had a feeling that ears would prick up a few weeks ago when I wrote in this column about sloppy restaurant service in our area. In my opinion, it’s the No. 1 thing that’s keeping Denver’s food and restaurant scene from breaking into the big leagues.
But I had no idea just how massive the flood of feedback would be.
I got dozens of voicemails and e- mails in response to the article, almost all of them adding another service gripe to the informal list I’d compiled.
Some callers were bugged about plates and cutlery not being spotless. Some said they couldn’t stand having to ask for water glasses to be refilled. Some complained about being required to wait for a table, even with reservations.
Some people wished for more focused and thoughtful wine service. Many were annoyed by upsells at the table. Plenty of female callers said they were put off when servers called them “guy” as in “Can I bring you guys something to drink?”
One reader, James of Denver, proclaimed his pet peeve, which I share: “If you use your knife during the salad course, does the used knife get bused away, or does the server place it directly on the table top to preserve it for the entrée? Worse yet, do they do that with the fork? That is just gross!”
(Note: Many of the people who wrote and called asked to be kept anonymous, so we’re just using first names here. Maybe they’re afraid of angry restaurant managers leaving threatening voicemails.)
Busing plates too quickly bugged many readers. “Sometimes my fork hasn’t returned to the plate from my last mouthful when I see the server’s hand ready to swoop it away,” wrote Bruce. “I think it’s a rude practice that puts pressure on the slower eaters, especially my elderly aunt, when we all should be enjoying the experience and each other’s company.”
Some readers wondered why service has dipped so low, and whether we’re bringing it on ourselves. “Don’t you think that Denver is much more casual in our attire when we dine?” asked Kayleen. “Does this translate to lower standards for service?”
Good question. Maybe I’ll conduct experiments, to see how much better I’m treated at restaurants when I’m in a tie.
All these comments and questions in my inbox seemed to ask the same thing: What can we do about bad service? Do we have any reasonable recourse at all?
“Leave a nickel tip,” suggested Sharon of Centennial, “and then don’t go back! Denver has a jillion restaurants. Do you really care if you get a dirty look on your way out the door?”
I hear this, but I think it’s worthwhile to have a word with the manager. Even if your complaint falls on hostile ears, at least you’ve said your piece and given them the opportunity to make things right.
Another suggestion, this one from Vern of Denver: “Go to the restaurant’s website and send a complaint.” He did, after a recent dinner at a restaurant where he was mistreated by the hostess. The result? “The owner sent me a gift card for $25, which we will use.”
Promising, and worth a shot.
But not everyone was so hopeful. “I want to support Denver’s burgeoning dining scene, and I know that new spots need my business,” wrote Laura. “But I also know that every time I dine out it’s a big, expensive risk, and I’ve been burned several times.”
She’s right. Dining out, especially at a place where you haven’t been before, is a risk.
But as far as I’m concerned, it is still a risk worth taking.
And if your dinner doesn’t pan out the way you want it to, I say speak up. Believe me, restaurateurs, at least the good ones, really want to know when something’s gone wrong. Because if they can make it right, they’ve got you as a customer for good.
As Nick of Denver wrote, “What people need to understand is that by demanding more and expecting your service to be impeccable eventually raises the bar and forces the local industry to follow suit. This, in turn, helps develop a city of wonderful restaurants for all of us to enjoy.”
So speak up and let’s keep the topic on the table. We’re all, customers and restaurateurs, in this together.
Dining critic Tucker Shaw can be reached at 303-954-1958 or at dining@denverpost.com.
More online: Find an archive of previous Food Court columns. denverpost.com/foodcourt
