NEW YORK Designers are pumping up the volume, sending tent dresses, cape-backed tops and full skirts down the runways for next spring. In show after show Monday – and I took in eight of the dozen on the official schedule – the predominant silhouette featured either a blousy top and slim bottom or a slim top and a full-skirted or wide-leg pants look.
In shows ranging from chic Carolina Herrera to cutting edge Marc Jacobs, the idea of fullness may be good news to American women tired of the clingy, curve-hugging clothes that have dominated in recent seasons. Then again, who really looks good in a parachute-shaped dress but creatures like the willowy models who dominated Jacobs’ runway Monday night, strutting in billowy awning-striped chiffon? The rest of us might look like Munchkins from the Land of Oz.
When done in skillful hands, some fullness balanced with curve-conscious tailoring transmits a fresh look that many women will embrace when its time to again wear spring clothing. Fluttery capelet sleeves, gowns with full backs, poufy skirts and empire-waist dresses were among the flattering and feminine looks that came down the runway.
Another thing women will be seeing plenty of come spring are prints. Florals, geometrics, polka dots, stripes and animal motifs were among the fabrics shown by such designers as Oscar de la Renta, Pamella Roland and Cynthia Steffe.
And with all the lace shown on the runways, you’d think it was a bridal market all the buyers and editors were attending. From Jill Stuart’s peekaboo ivory or black dresses to de la Renta’s Chantilly-accented cocktail and evening gowns, there’s a case to be made for lace for spring. For a younger and fresher take, Cynthia Steffe worked in eyelet, showing sundresses in white and deep blue.
Fashion Week, centered around the tents in Bryant Park, continues through Friday, with spring showings from top American and international designers.
