With its glaring neon beer signs, billiards table and video poker machines, Alexander’s looks like a vintage biker bar. But its menu, packed with a hugely varied selection of vegetarian options, marks it as an unheralded purveyor of great alternatives to the usual veg- Mex fare of beans, rice and melted cheese.
Consider the flavorful tofu, bean and quinoa burrito with basil, smothered with vegetarian green chili, for $6.95. Or the succulent asparagus, potatoes and cheese burrito, for $10.95. Or such other choices as potato, bean and kale; tofu, flax seed and dill; or red cabbage and cheese – all available with whole-wheat tortillas and lard-free beans.
Alexander’s has more traditional Mexican favorites as well, including chorizo, chicken enchiladas and five kinds of carnitas, plus special “carnivore burritos” for $11.95, featuring such ingredients as New York steak and broccoli or pork tenderloin and beans. It also offers wild elk and buffalo burgers for $9.95.
The chips and salsa, at $3.50, comes with warmed-up chips and not just one but four types of sauce: red chili with garlic, refries, queso and mild green veggie. We liked the cheesy kind best.
Service is casual, even lackadaisical. We waited at the door until a server came up, then were handed menus and told to sit where we wanted. Our drinks – two waters and two margaritas, which at $6 apiece seemed a little watery – were delivered promptly, but a request for two more waters for our party of four went unheeded until after the chips were gone.
And the piped-in music didn’t make the wait any easier. We’ve nothing against KBPI, but, hey, Van Halen doesn’t really blend with bulgur and rosemary. At least spring for a CD player.
Our orders arrived on good-looking platters, with the bean-and-beef burritos ($8.95) served up with a fresh and chunky guacamole, appliqued with spinach and cucumber, as opposed to the usual shredded lettuce. Unfortunately, a smothered burrito ordered by one of the vegans among us came covered with cheese. But to Alexander’s credit, it was graciously replaced with a dairy-free version.
The bandanas used for napkins were a nice homey touch, but we couldn’t say the same for the two dirty dishes left on the table after the check was presented. And yikes! The bill included an automatic 20 percent gratuity, a bit over-the-top for our little party of four. Worse, the credit-card receipt included a blank line for a tip. No tip of the sombrero there.
Located across from Fascinations and just down the block from Shotgun Willie’s, Alexander’s may be inviting walk-in traffic from the adult establishments nearby. If it pitched its food as ardently as its drinks, it wouldn’t need to.
Alexander’s
Mexican/Southwestern|4042 E. Virginia Ave., Glendale, 303-320-0777 |$3.50 to $14.95|11 a.m.-midnight daily, bar til 2 a.m.; major credit cards
Front burner: Terrific selection of vegetarian options along with “carnivore” dishes such as elk and buffalo burgers; outdoor patio and plenty of parking.
Back burner: Biker bar decor, annoying music, so-so-service and automatic 20 percent gratuity for parties of 4 or more.
