After living in a tiny Italian fishing village, I had grown accustomed to my local produce vendor, Yolanda, a gruff, dusty woman who boldly set up her fresh produce stand a few feet from the local supermarket.
The town sheep herder thought nothing of stopping our so-called morning rush-hour traffic to guide his flock across the cobblestone road, never forgetting to tip his cap in gratitude for our patience.
So when we moved to Longmont a decade ago, I was a bit of a food snob. But within a month, I realized I underestimated the bounty of local foods and the interest from Coloradans about staying true to native ingredients.
With the exception of perhaps seafood, which isn’t nearly on par with Italy given our locale, I was astounded when I walked into the Cheese Importers in Longmont. The boutique shop is filled with every type of olive, pasta, cheese and olive oil that my palate longed for. At the Boulder County Farmers Market, Steve Ela’s Colorado peaches, from Ela Family Farms in Hotchkiss, stood up to anything Yolanda slipped into my basket.
While researching and writing “Eating Between the Lines: The Supermarket Shopper’s Guide to the Truth Behind Food Labels” over the past two years, I began to fully understand Colorado’s contribution and devotion to better farming methods and better-quality ingredients.
On the culinary highway, it might seem that a bridge extends from Chicago to San Francisco and no one ever takes the off ramp to Colorado. But Colorado has done more to change what American puts on its dinner table than almost any other state.
For decades the conventional farming industry wrote off Colorado’s interest in natural and organic foods as a fad born from the “People’s Republic of Boulder.” Now that consumers are voting with their dollars, the critics are eating crow over Colorado’s role in creating double-digit growth for the natural-products industry.
In the late 1970s, when Mel Coleman Sr. founder of Coleman Natural Meats, decided to market a new brand of beef called “natural,” he lit a spark that would ignite an entire industry to think about choice as more than just a cut of meat, even though Coleman’s definition of “natural” as antibiotic-free and hormone-free was eventually watered down by the U.S. Department of Agriculture to mean no additives and preservatives.
Today, sales of natural and organic meat continue to outpace the conventional market. Most recently, officials from the USDA came to our backyard to meet with ranchers like Mel Coleman Jr., now chairman of the company, to collect comments about a stricter meaning of natural, one that more closely resembles his late father’s definition.
Just like Coleman’s steady popularity rise during the last decade, Colorado’s food innovation didn’t happen by accident – it was a result of vision, wisdom and a gritty determination to buck the status quo.
After being told that her family’s egg business was no place for a woman, Cyd Szymanski, owner of Nest Fresh Eggs, moved from Missouri and set up shop in Colorado.
Szymanski knew a lot about eggs, her family founded MOARK, one of the largest conventional egg-producing companies in the nation. But instead of using the same old rules, she set her own standards: no cages, ever; no antibiotics and only vegetarian feed.
When I stood with Szymanski among hundreds of skittish hens in an egg barn in Niwot, I expected a stench. After 15 minutes, not a teary eye among us. This is progress, Colorado style.
Look farther east to the High Plains Organic Dairy in Kersey for another example of family farmers embracing high-tech innovation. As I teetered on a fence trying to gain a bird’s-eye view of the 800-
acre dairy, it was clear that this is the new model for organic farming in the West. From my vantage point, I could see four small farms contained by a larger farm with pasture quadrants fanning out from a centralized milking parlor. A treatment plant to preserve our most precious resource – water – is tucked away on the west side.
Again, this didn’t happen by accident. In 2005, Scott and Brad Cockroft, third-generation Weld County dairy farmers, had a vision for a fresh new type of organic dairy farm, one that was highly sustainable, efficient and allowed more Colorado consumers access to organic milk.
Instead of a solitary venture, they partnered with Aurora Organic Dairy, an experienced private label supplier of organic milk. Since then, the interest has been infectious as dozens of other farmers in the region convert to organic farming.
As Colorado continues to evolve into a major destination on the culinary landscape, I was heartened one morning on my drive from Longmont to my sons’ school in Mead to have to yield to a cowboy moving his herd across Colorado 66. While other drivers waited with irritation, I watched in awe as the young man deftly guided his cattle across the busy road, all the while not forgetting to tip his hat in thanks.
Longmont writer Kimberly Lord Stewart is author of “Eating Between the Lines: The Supermarket Shopper’s Guide to the Truth Behind Food Labels” (St. Martin’s Press, $14.95). Contact her through eatingbetweenthelines.com.
The ABCs of Colorado foods
Anasazi beans. Since 1983, Adobe Milling in Dove has sold these native Colorado beans from the bean capital of the world (anasazibeans.com).
Beef and bison. In 2006, Coleman Natural Meats and The Fort restaurant in Morrison formed a joint venture to provide online sales of bison and natural beef (thefort.com).
Chile peppers. Pantaleo Farms in Vineland won the contest for the best Pueblo Chile at the State Fair for six years running (pantaleofarms.com).
Elk, emu, yak. Looking for specialty meats that are USDA inspected? Look no further than Yauk’s Specialty Meats, 220 Main St., Windsor, 970-686-9080.
Goat cheese. Jim Schott recently retired from his successful 14-year-old “retirement project” at Haystack Mountain Cheese in Niwot. Not to worry, it’s in good hands with Tim Overlie, a 23-year veteran of Wild Oats Markets (haystack goatcheese.com).
Lamb and wool. Colorado produces 3 million pounds of wool per year and is one of the primary lamb-raising states in the country (coloradosheep.org).
Microbrewed beer. Colorado boasts more microbreweries per capita than any other state (beertown.org).
Organic milk. Milk production in Colorado rose 7.5 percent from 2000. 2005, (4 percent above national average); organic dairies played a role (USDA).
Potatoes. The San Luis Valley produces 92 percent of Colorado’s potatoes and Colorado is the fourth-largest potato-growing state in the nation (coloradopotato.org).
Peaches. The state has 520,000 peach trees, three-quarters of them in Mesa County (coloradopeaches.com).
Quinoa. This is the only state that can grow high-altitude- loving quinoa. White Mountain Farms in the San Luis Valley has developed black quinoa (www.whitemountainfarm.com).
Soy milk. A Colorado State University Study, published in 2004, showed that drinking soy milk may prevent baldness, so drink up guys (www.colostate.edu).
Sugar beets. Pencil in Sept. 15-16 for Sugar Beet Days in Sterling (sugarbeetdays.com).
Sunflowers. Colorado is the fourth-largest sunflower-growing state in the nation.
Top 10 food-label mysteries solved
Deciphering the vague language, mysterious symbols and long ingredients list can leave a grocery shopper with more questions than answers. Mind these tips:
1. Beef. The USDA definition of “natural” is about food processing, not the way the animal was raised. For guarantees like no hormones and no antibiotics, look for organic, beyond natural brands and certified animal welfare claims.
2. Poultry and eggs. Don’t buy into the “no hormone” trap and pay more for products that make such claims. Instead, look for brands that at the very least use no human-grade antibiotics.
3. Seafood. Eat at least two servings of fish per week. For mercury- and PCB-safe brands, look for safety testing symbols. For eco-friendly fishing methods, rely on certified marine stewardship seals and updated seafood lists.
4. Dairy. Look for “No Growth Hormones Used” labels or buy organic.
5. Extra-virgin olive oil. Remember the “PAGED” acronym:
- Price ($12-$20/liter)
- Acidity (less than .8g)
- Geography (single country or single region)
- Extra-virgin for the most health properties and flavor
- Date (don’t buy old oil)
6. Health claims. Be wary of magic-bullet health claims – no amount of marketing can make an unhealthy product healthy.
7. Coffee. Fair Trade Certified Coffee and specialty coffee sellers with social welfare programs are a necessary cause in today’s coffee marketplace.
8. Cereals and snacks. Use a critical eye to find products that are high fiber and low sugar and have absolutely no trans fats.
9. Beverages. One 12-ounce sweetened drink has at least nine teaspoons of high fructose corn syrup.
10. Moderation. Remember that the nutrient content claims on packages are for a 2,000-calorie diet. If this is more than you need to consume, pay attention to the portion size, calories and percentage of saturated fats.
Colorado Quinoa
This Colorado-grown perfect protein (pronounced keen-wa) has a smooth, light texture and picks up the bold flavors of the Southwest. This recipe works well with plain quinoa or boxed whole grain mixes (such as Seeds of Change, zesty cilantro flavor). From Kimberly Lord Stewart, makes 6 servings.
Ingredients
- 1 cup quinoa
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 1/2 teaspoon chipotle chile powder
- 1 teaspoon vegetable oil
- 2 cups water (or half chicken or vegetable stock and half water)
Mix-ins:
- 2 teaspoons canola oil
- 3 stalks celery, trimmed and chopped
- 1/2 medium onion, chopped
- 1 jalapeño, seeded and chopped
- 1/2 red pepper, chopped finely
- 1 3-ounce can diced green chiles
- 1 carrot, chopped
- 2 Colorado corn ears, shucked (or one cup frozen corn)
- 1 3-ounce chicken andouille smoked sausage (or other sausage), diced
- 2 tablespoons cilantro, finely minced
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- 1/2 cup queso fresco, cotija or feta cheese
Directions
With a fine sieve, rinse quinoa to remove the outer coating. If you think you are done, rinse it one more time to prevent a soapy taste. Bring water to a boil; add quinoa, cumin, chile powder and oil. Turn heat down to low, cook 15-20 minutes until water is absorbed (if using a mix, follow package instructions). Cover and set aside.
Heat oil in a cast iron or other heavy skillet over medium heat. Add all ingredients except cilantro, salt, pepper and cheese. Sauté until onions are opaque and the corn begins to brown.
Fold quinoa into vegetables. Adjust the seasoning. Top each serving with cilantro and cheese.
Wine ideas: Nutty and delicate, quinoa goes well with a lighter white wine. Try a pinot grigio from northern Italy; Denver’s Enotec Imports brings in a crisp, bright version from Caldaro winery in Italy’s Alto Adige. -Tara Q. Thomas
Bison Burgers
The late Sam Arnold, owner of The Fort restaurant, popularized bison, and was was known for using novel recipes and techniques, such as adding vanilla for depth of flavor and cracked ice to keep the meat moist. We tested his recipe, and tasters preferred the non-vanilla version moistened with egg rather than ice. Here’s an adapted version of the one published in “The Fort Cookbook.” Makes 6 burgers.
Ingredients
- 2 pounds ground bison
- 1/3 cup finely minced white onion
- 2 tablespoons
- Worcestershire sauce
- 1 teaspoon seasoned salt (your favorite blend – we used Tony Chachere’s)
- 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract (optional)
- 1 egg, beaten
- Salt and freshly ground black pepper
- Colorado cheese, such as Morning Fresh blue cheese or Haystack feta
- 6 whole-grain hamburger buns
Directions
Clean and oil grill, and heat to high.
Lightly knead all ingredients into the meat, except salt, pepper and cheese. Divide mixture into 6 equal portions to form patties. Place burgers on oiled grill. Season with salt and pepper while grilling. Don’t be tempted to turn the patties over more than once or press on the meat because the moisture will seep out. Don’t grill them to death: buffalo is lean and overcooks easily. Top with crumbled cheese, if desired.
Wine ideas: Most any generous, juicy red will match these burgers, but what could be more fitting that a red called Tyrannosaurus Red? It’s 100 percent Colorado grown, made by Carlson Vineyards from lemberger, a grape more common in Austria than the U.S. – and deliciously grapey.-Tara Q. Thomas
Asparagus with Cranberry-Balsamic Glaze
At one time in our history, Colorado was known as an asparagus-growing state. You can still find the tiny shoots pushing from the ground near irrigation ditches. Look for locally grown asparagus midspring. From Kimberly Lord Stewart, serves 6.
Ingredients
- 1 pound fresh asparagus, ends peeled and trimmed
- 1 tablespoon olive oil, for grilling or roasting
- 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, for grilling or roasting
- Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Glaze:
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1 sweet Colorado onion, sliced
- 4 tablespoons dried cranberries
- 1 medium orange, zested and juiced (we used a blood orange)
- 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
- 3 tablespoons tangerine-pomegranate juice (such as PomWonderful), or a blend of cranberry and orange juices
Directions
Grill, roast or steam asparagus until fork-tender. To grill: Coat asparagus with 1 tablespoon olive oil and 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Heat grill to medium. Place asparagus crosswise on grill and close lid. Grill 5-8 minutes, until light grill marks appear.
To roast: Heat oven to 450 degrees. Coat asparagus with 1 tablespoon each olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Place asparagus in a single layer on a cookie sheet and roast about 12 minutes.
To steam: Cook in a steamer over boiling water 3 minutes for small stalks, 5 minutes for larger. If making ahead, drain and store in cold water.
Make glaze: In a large skillet, melt butter; add onions and cook over low heat until translucent. Turn up heat slightly and caramelize onions until golden, stirring occasionally, 10-20 minutes. Add dried cranberries, orange zest, orange juice, vinegar and tangerine-pomegranate juice. Simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Just before serving, add asparagus, gently coat with sauce and heat through.
Grilled Stone Fruit with Honeyed Goat Cheese
It’s a little early still for Colorado peaches and apricots, but stash this recipe for the peak of summer perfection. Any stone fruit will work – peaches, apricots, nectarines and plums. For a winter treat, grill pineapple rings and sliced mangoes. From Kimberly Lord Stewart, serves 6.
Ingredients
- 6-8 ripe peaches, apricots, nectarines or plums, halved and pitted
- 1 lemon, cut in half
- 1 cup soft goat cheese, such as Haystack Mountain
- 6 tablespoons Colorado honey, divided
Directions
Rub fruit with lemon to prevent browning. Grill, cut side down, on a well-oiled grill over medium heat until caramelized.
Stir goat cheese with 3 tablespoons honey. Fill each fruit center with honey-goat cheese. Drizzle with remaining honey, serve warm.
Wine ideas: With peachy, honeyed flavor carried by tons of light, tiny bubbles, Moscato d’Asti would be delicious with this dessert. Denver’s Enotec Imports brings in a classic example from Palladino. -Tara Q. Thomas
Moroccan Chicken Marbella
This recipe was inspired by one in a favorite cookbook, “The Silver Palate Cookbook,” by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins. It’s a throw-in-the-oven-and-forget- about-it dish that is good enough for company but easy enough for a concert and picnic at the Denver Botanic Gardens or your local park (when the snow finally melts!). Serve with rice, couscous or quinoa. Makes 4 servings.
Ingredients
- 4 cloves roasted garlic, thinly sliced (buy them already roasted in the jar or deli counter)
- 1/2 cup black Kalamata olives or oil-cured black olives (from a jar or deli counter)
- 1/2 cup dried apricots
- 4 Colorado plums, pitted and quartered
- 1 15-ounce can garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed
- 1/4 cup sherry wine vinegar
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1/4 cup white wine
- 1/4 cup brown sugar
- 1 teaspoon ground coriander
- 4 chicken breasts, each cut into four large pieces
- Salt and pepper
- 3 tablespoons fresh parsley (optional)
Directions
Place garlic, olives, apricots, plums and garbanzos in a baking dish. Whisk together sherry vinegar, extra- virgin olive oil and white wine. Pour over fruit and garlic.
Put brown sugar and coriander in a plastic bag with chicken breasts. Coat well.
Place chicken on top of fruit and olive mixture with any remaining spice mix. Season with salt and pepper. Bake uncovered at 350 degrees for 30-40 minutes until sauce is reduced and chicken is cooked through. Top with parsley.
Wine ideas: The south of France and Morocco have long shared food and wine influences. Try an earthy, dark red from France’s Languedoc, in the far south of France: Boulder’s Organic Vintners brings in a bargain-priced, $12, organically grown vegan version that would match well. -Tara Q. Thomas
No-Fail, High-Alt, Trans-Fat-Free Yellow Cake
Cake mixes and pre-made frostings are notoriously high in trans fats. To avoid these heart-damaging fats, buy organic cake mixes or learn how to bake from scratch. Here is an altitude-tested, easy one-bowl cake recipe as well as a trans-fat-free, but not fat-free, frosting (needs to set, so plan ahead). From Kimberly Lord Stewart, makes 2 9-inch round cakes.
Ingredients
Cake:
- 1 3/4 cups sugar
- 4 eggs, room temperature (if cold, run them under warm water for 1-2 minutes)
- 1 cup canola oil
- 1 cup buttermilk
- 1 teaspoon vanilla
- 2 1/2 cups cake flour or 2 1/3 cups regular white flour
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 2 1/4 teaspoons baking powder
Chocolate frosting:
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 8 ounces bittersweet, semisweet or milk chocolate, chips or finely chopped
- A few grains of salt
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
Grease and flour two 9-inch round cake pans.
Beat sugar and eggs in large bowl until color turns a light butter yellow and the volume is quadrupled, about 3-5 minutes. Dip a wooden spoon in the batter and write your initials – if you can see the outline for a few seconds, it’s perfect.
Add oil, buttermilk and vanilla, stir well. In a small bowl, stir flour, salt, baking powder, add to liquid mixture. Beat 1 minute on low. Scrape bottom of bowl, make certain no dry bits are trapped in the batter.
Divide batter evenly in the pans. Bake in center of oven, 25-30 minutes, until the tops bounce back when touched lightly and a toothpick inserted in center comes out clean.
Let cool in pans 5 minutes. Run a table knife along the rim to loosen the edges. Turn out onto wire racks and let cool 1-2 hours. Can be made well ahead. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap. If freezing, wrap cooled cake in plastic wrap, then cover with foil to prevent freezer burn. Will keep 3-4 months.
Frosting: Boil cream in a medium saucepan. Remove from heat, add chocolate and salt; let sit 10 minutes. Stir until chocolate is melted. Pour into a bowl and let it sit on the counter until completely cool, refrigerate 4-6 hours or overnight.
Before frosting the cake, whip on medium speed with a mixer briefly until fluffy. Spread filling between cake layers, frost sides of cake first, then top.
