Mendoza, Argentina
– It sounds like a Hollywood sell, too good to be true. Imagine airlifting Napa to the Front Range, then slicing the cost of everything by two-thirds.
Yes, there are a few catches. Mendoza is a good 5,000 miles away, and not all of it is picture-perfect – unlike this area, there are no factories, or even the slightest hints of poverty, on the way to Northern California’s ritziest vineyards.
But once you’re near Argentina’s western border, a half-day’s drive from Buenos Aires, the journey comes at a fraction of the price or pretension and with bigger mountains, to boot. Even Colorado’s Rockies have nothing on the Andes in this region – at 22,840 feet, Mount Aconcagua is the highest peak in the Western Hemisphere and less than a two-hour drive from Mendoza in good weather.
And then, there’s the vino. It has boomed, despite the ups and downs of the Argentine peso, prompting Wine Spectator to proclaim in 2005 that “Argentina is taking its place among the world’s great wine regions.”
As with much of Argentina, the average American or
European will find things mind-bogglingly cheap here, though a hair pricier than in other Latin American locales.
Just a few years ago, the inflated peso kept many for-
eign visitors away. But the government devalued its currency in December 2001, and while this move was hard
on the Argentines themselves, it has sparked an influx of international tourists.
Today, travelers might see the same numbers on the price tags here that they’d see in the United States, but it takes about three pesos to equal a dollar.
That explains how Mendocinan restaurants charge for a bottle of wine what their American counterparts would charge for a glass, and how a world-class steak might go for a buck or two more than a high-end fast-food burrito in the States. And there are plenty of recognizable banks, including Citibank and HSBC, where one can make cash withdrawals to pay at the smaller stores and restaurants that won’t take credit cards.
Good grape climate
Founded in 1561, Mendoza passed for centuries as a quiet outpost in the Spanish empire, give or take the occasional revolutionary march by José de San Martín. By the end of the 19th century the mainly Spanish and Italian settlers had figured out that the high, dry climate situated close to fresh mountain water was an ideal place to grow grapes.
In those days they squeezed their grapes by stepping on them. Today, the bodegas employ some of the latest technological imports, along with the same mainly French oak barrels vintners have used for decades, to make sure their wines maintain the proper acidity and temperature.
While the seasons are opposite ours in the Southern Hemisphere, the winter months are mild enough here to welcome tourists year- round. That creates all the more time to sample their beverages, most famously the malbec, a strong red with a dark berry flavor that has made the most noise for Mendoza in international competitions.
In Napa or Sonoma, it’s possible to sample dozens of wineries in a weekend, given the right designated driver. But the bodegas here are a departure from the “stop, sip and shop” school.
Many that are open to the public give a full, free tour, followed by a smaller (but still free, unlike most of California) sampling of the product. It’s good to call ahead – not all wineries are open, some are very particular about the starting times of their tours and an advance call can help secure a tour in English.
Local travel agencies, including Mendoza Viajes and Huentata, arrange tours for about $8.50. Their drawback is that they choose the bodegas.
The more intrepid connoisseur should consider renting a car. American companies Hertz, Avis and Dollar have agencies in town, though there isn’t an automatic transmission among them.
Another good option is a private driver, or remis. A good hotel will suggest a knowledgeable, connected local who can sweet-talk a guard when you’re late for a tour.
My girlfriend and I found one for about $45 for an afternoon’s work, with interesting conversation about politics, soccer and the object of our excursion at no extra charge.
If your liver needs a breather, there’s nothing better than the mountain air, especially from December through February, when Mendoza can get hot. Depending on the time of year, there are plenty of opportunities to hike, white-water raft or go horseback riding.
Up high near the Chilean border, one of the more unusual places to visit is Puente del Inca, a former luxury spa built into a lovely natural bridge. But be warned that the thermal baths are now open only during the warmer months. Despite the pretty views you may see, Puente del Inca is a small, isolated site, and it makes sense to schedule other stops to make the journey worthwhile, especially in the winter months when Aconcagua is often clouded over.
There also are ski resorts in this area west of Mendoza, though they might appear rinky-dink to the average Coloradan. Still, with so much else so close, Los Penitentes might be worth a day trip for a ski bum jonesing for a quick fix in June, July or August.
The details
A great way to start planning
a trip here is to visit mendoza.com, a site with advice on wine tours, the mountains, special events such as La Vendimia – a harvest festival held during the first week of March – and
quality lodging.
With tourism surging, many hotels and restaurants employ English-speakers. Sadly, it’s also easy to hear more music in
English than in Spanish. On three separate occasions over two weeks in Argentina we heard an album of Rod Stewart singing old standards such as, “I’ll Take Manhattan.” You can’t go 50 feet without hearing Mr. Mister, REO Speedwagon or the Alan Parsons Project. It’s like the country is run by a 1980s junior-high
dance deejay.
Other elements of Mendoza feel much less localized. Internet cafes are ubiquitous. Their quality varies, but it’s not hard to find fast connections for about 50 cents an hour in the middle of town.
Affordable, clean hotels and hostels are abundant. Visit the Park Hyatt for its food or casino, but don’t waste money sleeping there unless your budget is limitless. Half a block away sits the Hotel Argentino. Depending on the time of year, you can get a nice room for about $50, with a discount for booking online. Also included are free Internet access at a pair of hotel computers, a small outdoor swimming pool and a full continental breakfast that includes fresh-squeezed orange juice and raspaditas – small, slightly sour, puck-shaped breads native to the area.
There are plenty of places in the city to buy Argentine leather products or soccer jerseys. One of the more interesting shopping spots is the Mercado Artesanal. This co-op sells goods produced by regional artisans, from simple, cheap weavings to more elaborate ponchos and fur rugs.
Those concerned for their safety in Mendoza shouldn’t be overly so. It’s smart to have some idea where you’re going, especially at night, and the security guards
outside some tourist spots late in the evening are there for a reason.
