Tomatoes can be hard work for Front Range gardeners. But a little know-how can be a lot of help. Here are 10 pieces of advice.
Remember your roots
Talk to your local nursery about varieties cultivated specifically for Colorado’s climate and shorter growing season; look for short, stocky plants with healthy root systems and multiple leaf sets. Plant a variety of tomatoes so you won’t be disappointed at harvest time.
Start early
To start tomatoes from seeds, follow the packet instructions for planting and transplanting dates, growing conditions and anticipated growing season. Choose indeterminate varieties with a short growing season, 60 to 75 days. Make certain their root growth is not inhibited at transplanting – cut vents in one or more sides of the netting or peat. Especially in clay soils, ensure transplant success by loosening and amending the soil, then adequately watering new plants after.
Ease on down the road
Harden hothouse flats or individual pots of tomatoes outdoors before transplanting. Put them in partial sun a few hours each day, for a few days. Gradually increase the time they spend outdoors until they can stay out overnight. Mike McGrath, author of “You Bet Your Tomatoes” (Rodale), notes that tomatoes hate nighttime temperatures that dip below the 50s. Once the plants are hardened and temperatures are appropriate, transplant tomatoes in the evening to let them get acclimated before they sit their first full day in the sun.
Get in place
Select a location for tomatoes in your garden that provides favorable growing conditions: good drainage, adequate moisture retention, partial to full sun during most of the day. Choosing an area that gets morning sun is especially important and reduces the likelihood of plants getting sick, according to McGrath. To transplant, Kathy Wollam of CSU’s Master Gardener program recommends digging a hole three times bigger than the root ball. Loosen the dirt around the hole and add fertilizer, the plant and water – as you backfill. McGrath adds several tablespoons of crushed eggshells to the root hole to prevent blossom rot – the brown or black ring at the bottom of a tomato.
Go deep
Tomato stems contain root nodules, so rangy plants can be planted on their sides – or trenched – laying the stem under the soil with only the last few sets of leaves protruding. McGrath advocates this technique so that new roots will develop along the buried stem, and a sturdier plant will result.
Get dirty
Amend the soil, before transplanting, with a mixture of additives that will produce the ideal growing conditions for tomato roots. In Colorado, this means adding humus or compost to improve water permeability and to increase potassium levels. As plants begin blossoming, add a side dressing of something like Tomatoes Alive!® (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorous, calcium and magnesium) or a combination of calcium and potassium. Dig gently toward the plant’s roots, about 5 inches away from the stem, and “inject” a booster shot of these nutrients into the soil. Water the plants afterwards to allow the nutrients to soak into the ground.
Stay warm
For early starts, mulch the ground around tomato plants with straw, leaves, pine needles, grass clippings or black groundcloth – or shelter plants with a Wall o’ Water. These are plastic, water-filled teepees that protect early plant growth and insulate against ground-temperature extremes. (Gallon plastic milk or juice containers filled with water and set in a square around the plants serve the same purpose – both keep warmth in the soil a few hours after dark and regulate the temperature during the day.)
Water smart
Tomato plants enjoy a good watering, but allow them to recover between soakings. This reduces fungus or molds that are attracted to the moist foliage. Water in the morning to offset daytime temperatures.
Support groups
Stake plants to provide support for the vines and heavier fruit. Whether you choose a circular or a square tomato cage or a fence-type trellis, keeping the vines up off the ground means more abundant produce and a healthier crop. For varieties that produce long vines or tendrils, gently tie up the main stems using generous strips of cloth or soft string. (Knot the cloth around the tomato cage, first, then extend the ends to create a support loop for the stem.) McGrath cautions against using twisty ties, whose wire interiors cut through delicate stems.
Bug off
Guard against tomato worms and other pests. Enlist the help of birds by locating a feeder or birdbath nearby. Inspect maturing plants for the dark green brass left by horn worms or cabbage worms. Remove the caterpillar unless it has white spines all over its back. These are the egg cases of beneficial insects that need to be left to hatch, McGrath says.
