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The upper basin of the Middle Fork of the South Platte River tends to hold snow well into late spring and often early summer, providing many opportunities for snow climbs.

One of my favorites is Wheeler Peak via Wheeler Lake. When the spring snow has consolidated, the climb up to the south ridge of Wheeler from the lower lake can be a good, moderate snow climb. The route along the ridge to the summit of Wheeler should be attempted only by experienced climbers, especially if the route is snow-covered.

Hike description

From the parking area head southwest on the road as it contours around to the west end of the lake, through a closed gate. The road heads up the valley, passing under the Magnolia Mill. Stay away from the buildings, which are privately owned and undergoing some repairs.

After passing the mill, the jeep trail stays to the right of the drainage to avoid private property (and also avoid the willows filling the bottom of the valley).

After 2.9 miles, the road starts to diagonal up the right-hand side of the valley towards the lake and should be obvious. Follow the road as it climbs until snow slopes allow you to head directly toward the lake. This approach avoids potential avalanche slopes just west of the road.

Contour around the left side of the lower lake and follow the drainage from the upper lake, usually staying left (west) of the drainage itself (there is a very real danger in the spring of falling through a snow bridge into these fast-flowing streams, which then go back under the snow, making an exit next to impossible). Also, stay clear of the potential avalanche paths coming off the shoulder of Clinton Peak.

From the upper lake, the steepest snow line climbs left of the lake and up a finger of snow to a flatter area.

From here either angle left toward the Clinton-Wheeler saddle or, if snow conditions are good, head up a steeper (approximately 40 degrees) snow slope to the right, aiming for the first ridge point to the right (north) of the saddle. From here the route will depend on snow conditions. A climbers trail of sorts stays slightly west of the ridgeline, but this may not be a good choice when it’s covered in snow. Staying on the ridge crest requires some fourth- class scrambling when dry; with snow, a rope might be useful. The short distance from the Clinton-Wheeler saddle to the summit of Wheeler Mountain can be slow going on this quite challenging terrain.

To descend, head back to the saddle, then pick a route back down (the exact route chosen will depend on how soft the snow has become).

Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”