South Fork – Think of it as Colorado’s empty quarter, a region not yet overrun with construction cranes or, for that matter, fishermen.
Last week, as swarms of mayflies danced through slanted sunlight like little shards of crystal, a leisurely float down the Rio Grande and past a long expanse of public access revealed just one other boat and no more than a half-dozen other anglers on shore.
Despite what one might hear about the annual invasion from Texas and other hot, flat points, the streams of southwest Colorado remain remarkably free of congestion and conflict.
While some may complain of a faster pace, those from the Front Range and the I-70 corridor should be amazed at the relative solitude of the southwest.
The man waving a fly rod at a launch site near the town of South Fork spoke excitedly of landing eight trout within a few minutes at this public spot and seemed annoyed that someone actually might use it to trailer a boat.
A tour through four miles of the Coller Wildlife Area revealed three or four anglers with hooks in the water (granted, high water might have discouraged some).
Despite earlier, dire snowpack predictions, the Rio Grande rushed along at 2,500 cubic feet per second last week, big water in any season. It continues to run high, but the level should plummet in early July.
The bugs were buzzing about in their multitudes and most fish remained close to shore, within easy reach. The most evident insect was the mayfly – commonly called gray drake. The large insects danced and darted in a way that mesmerized anglers but few trout.
That the Rio Grande’s healthy population of brown trout largely ignored the bugs might have much to do with the slight tint of the water or the sometimes-persnickety attitude of browns toward sticking their noses into the air.
Certainly, there was more than enough to eat deep beneath the surface at a time of year when so many different types of insects were emerging. Dave Nordstrom, who drove from Pagosa Springs for the occasion, chose to dangle a golden stonefly nymph near the bottom, a tactic that produced steady action.
With so many trout hanging in the soft pockets near shore, streamers proved to be an equally attractive alternative. Trout pounced on a black Barr’s Slumpbuster like freeloaders at a buffet line. On one occasion, three fish chased the streamer of Mike McCormick, who operates the Wolf Creek Anglers shop in South Fork, at the same time.
The Rio Grande is on the rise because of its wealth of trout food and a recent regulation change. Division of Wildlife biologist John Alves believes a 2002 rule switch that now allows two fish under 12 inches as opposed to two fish longer than 16 inches has caused more of the larger fish to survive.
“Before that, if a fish reached 16 inches, it was out of there. Now we’re seeing a lot more fish above that length,” Alves said.
Alves’ 2005 survey at the Coller station between South Fork and Creede documented 67 pounds of fish per acre, with 24 fish larger than 14 inches. Both figures were more than double the count taken in 1997.
A test site above Creede at Marshall Park recorded 55 pounds per acre, which translates to 1,600 trout longer than six inches per mile. A third site at State Bridge, toward Del Norte, showed fewer but larger trout, with a higher percentage of rainbows.
Brown trout rule the Rio Grande, representing 92 percent of the biomass. If there is any negative to this plenitude, it is that much of the catch ranges from 12 to 14 inches – a testament both to the sagacious nature of older brown trout and the rigors of higher elevation.
McCormick touted golden stonefly nymphs as the killer early pattern on the lower river.
“When the water drops, caddis hatches will continue past July 4,” McCormick said. “Then green drakes take over for about two weeks – the best hatch of the year on the lower river.”
The pale morning dun mayfly takes the insect parade toward the end of July. During the warm days of August and early September, savvy anglers throw hopper imitations and streamers along the shore.
Ample public access on the South Fork (a large tributary), and numerous creeks farther up the drainage provide visitors with an alternative to the big river.
Wherever one goes, this much is certain: There’ll always be more fish than fishermen.
