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Though I may require several glasses of wine to fully appreciate modern art, most of you probably do not.

Though it can’t hurt.

And for Denverites, there are few better ways of celebrating local fine art than taking a stroll along the First Friday Art Walk on Tennyson Street.

There’s great art, food, music, community spirit, family and, until recently, wine and beer.

Regrettably, the state of Colorado is determined to put a damper on these festivities with a dour dose of mile-high coddling. Someone has dredged up a long-forgotten ordinance that prohibits for-profit businesses that open their doors to the public from offering their guests any alcoholic beverages.

Even for free. Even a sip.

Aren’t you glad all of the state’s troubles have been solved?

Authorities can now turn their attention to the crucial issue of complimentary Cabernet.

Manfred Luppold, who has lived in Denver for 23 years, opened Berkeley Trading Company on Tennyson Street three years ago. He sells collectibles and antiques and displays the work of 18 north Denver artists.

He’s also fairly irritated.

“It’s a nonproblem. When we opened and the art walk was established, everyone served refreshments. We served wine and beer and water. Actually, over the three years, we’ve given out more water than anything else,” he goes on. “It’s not a case of people coming in and getting hammered and things like that. People would stand around and talk – we have regulars that come in for every art walk. It’s more like a cocktail party. Friends getting together.”

I’ve experienced an art walk firsthand. Several months ago a munificent local bicycle shop owner opened his business to preschoolers in my daughter’s class so they could display their artwork for parents and passers-by.

Alcohol – one of the vital ingredients to good parenting, as well – was also on hand. Everyone behaved (except the kids). The whole event was a good reminder of why so many of us live in urban areas.

“A couple of months ago, we received a notice from the city that alcohol could not be served anymore,” explains Trina Hoefling of the Tennyson Gallery. “We don’t want to violate the law, so we put up some signs letting everyone know.”

One of her signs read: “Though she’s refused to tell us for sure, Mayor Hick’s Director of Excise and Licenses, Helen Gonzales, has apparently determined that it’s necessary to interpret an arcane state statute so as to make it illegal for you to enjoy a complimentary glass of wine while you visit our gallery …”

How did people react?

“They weren’t mad, but they thought it was rather ridiculous,” Hoefling says. “We’ve gotten another notice since then that says we can absolutely not serve alcohol. We can’t afford the risk of being shut down. I’m not really upset about the wine, but I’m not crazy about being told what to do.”

Awilda Marquez is now director of Excise and Licenses. Let me boil down our conversation: She’s sympathetic, but the law is the law.

She’s got a point, of course. But quite often, dumb laws have unintentional consequences. And this is clearly one of those cases.

Another, larger problem with exasperating intrusions of this variety is that often they do more than inconvenience law-abiding citizens. They have an economic impact, as well.

Sarah Vigil Ortega is co-owner of Ooh! Aah! Jewelry, another local business.

“We are kind of upset about it,” she tells me. “It’s bringing less traffic to the neighborhood. We’ve noticed a big drop in people during the last two art walks. Things have just gotten worse. And wine usually keeps people in our store longer. And for the most part, they only have one tasting.”

Ortega claims that her shop would probably be out of business without a robust art walk. It brings more than 50 percent of her sales.

“The funny thing is that this is such a nonproblem,” Luppold restated emphatically. “Our art walk is family friendly. No litter. No vandalism or rowdiness. It’s just a great event.”

What we need is a stand-up legislator to propose a workable solution so that I can get back to enjoying art the only way I know how.

Slightly inebriated.

David Harsanyi’s column appears Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Reach him at 303-954-1255 or dharsanyi@denverpost.com.

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