The Feathered Serpent Quetzalcoatl battled through the cotton-candy cloud, ripping at its billowing corners with razor-sharp talons. He’d been coming here for more than a thousand years, his shadow moving up the side of El Castillo, Chichén Itzá’s largest pyramid, on the spring and fall equinoxes like clockwork.
There was no way the rain god Chaac and his little cloud would stop Quetzalcoatl – at least, that’s what 8,000 modern-day pilgrims and I were hoping as we arched our backs for a better view. We’d gathered at the Mayan-Toltec site’s towering El Castillo pyramid, deep in the heart of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula.
And then it happened: Quetzalcoatl, the god of wind, creativity and fertility, poked his head through the cloud revealing a glimpse of his snake-like image, an undulating shadow illuminated on the side of the pyramid’s nine-tiered northern staircase.
There was a collective gasp from the crowd, then hoots and hollers, music and prayer. It was like going to a concert for a Monster of Rock born more than a thousand years ago. At that moment, in a fleeting second of cosmic kismet, I felt a tenuous connection to the world, to the ages, to my past, my present and my future.
This is the essence of pilgrimage that lies at the center of the mystery and appeal of Chichén Itzá’s equinox celebrations, held each year on Sept. 22 and March 20. This fall, the ceremony will have added honor: In a recent global poll, Chichén Itzá was named one of the Seven New Wonders of the World (new7wonders.com).
Pyramid built in ninth century
Devotees have been coming here since the pyramid was built in the ninth century. At first, the towering edifice was used as a calendar to predict the beginning of spring and fall. It told peasants when to procreate, when to plant and when to worship. Today, it retains its mystical quality, attracting New-Agers and hungover spring-breakers alike, as they stretch to see the spectacular show of shadow and light.
The symbolism and sanctity of the Feathered Serpent run deep. The Mayan people first settled Chichén Itzá during the late classic period of the Mayan Dynasty, around A.D. 600, but it was little more than a hinterland outpost at the time. Many archaeologists say it was really the Toltecs – a proud and rather savage people from Central Mexico – who brought the city to its height of splendor.
Not only did the Toltecs build the site’s major monuments – El Castillo, the Nunnery and the Ball Court – legend says they also brought the cult of Quetzalcoatl with them.
Chichén Itzá exhibits many traits of central Mexican pre-Colombian architecture. Stand in the true center of Chichén Itzá’s court and give a shout; your echo will sharply reverberate. Also worth exploring are the area’s massive limestone sinkholes known as cenotes (pronounced seh-NOH-tays). With drinking water scarce in the region, these fresh-water sources were considered sacred by the Maya. Nowadays, they make a good place to chill out after a hard day of touring the ruins.
Any time of year is great for visiting Chichén Itzá, and many savvy travelers come a few days before or after the equinox to avoid crowds. The shadow still shows up, both in the morning and in the afternoon, but doesn’t stay as long.
But it’s probably wise to get there soon. In 2012, the “End of Days” will come, according the Mayan long-count calendar, perhaps leaving us with only shadows of Chichén Itzá’s great days of splendor.
Greg Benchwick is writing Lonely Planet’s new Yucatan guide. “Travels With Lonely Planet” is coordinated by Commissioning Editor Jay Cooke. You can e-mail him at jay.cooke@lonelyplanet.com.
INSIDER’S GUIDE
Planning your trip: Chichén Itzá is going to be packed for this fall’s equinox, so plan accordingly. Consider staying in neighboring Quintana Roo state or Cancun, two hours east. Entrance to Chichén Itzá costs around $10, and you can arrange tours of the site. If you miss the equinox, a nightly laser show re-creates the event.
Where to eat: Stop by any market on your way to Chichén Itzá and prepare a picnic lunch, or pick up snacks at the site. At Cenote Ik Kil (2 miles east of Chichén Itzá’s eastern entrance, 011-52-985-851-0039, ), you can swim in an emerald cenote before taking your turn at the lunch buffet. They also have cabins. For cheap eats check out Loncheria Sayil, just west of the Posada Chac-Mool in Piste, the closest town to the site.
Where to stay: While you will probably come to Chichén only on a day trip from your waterfront spot on the Riviera Maya, or elsewhere in the region, there are a number of good hotels nearby. Piramide Inn (piramideinn.com) offers fairly affordable, spacious rooms, camping space and a pool. Hacienda Chichén Resort (haciendachichen.com, 877-631-4005), a converted 16th-century estate with tastefully appointed bungalows, hosted the archaeologists that excavated Chichén in the 1920s.
