WASHINGTON — When Ann Cooper took over the lunch program for the Berkeley, Calif., schools, she found children eating chicken nuggets and Tater Tots (“Pre-flash fried with corn fillers and corn coating,” she tut-tutted.). There was also canned fruit cocktail and chocolate milk (“both with high-fructose corn syrup”).
The lunches averaged 800 to 900 calories, much higher than federal guidelines, and were loaded with salt. “That is just crazy in a world of obesity,” Cooper declared.
Cooper instituted roast chicken, a salad bar, fresh fruit, vegetables and low-fat milk. The onetime gourmet chef and other nutrition experts believe such healthful foods should be served at all schools, but point to a major obstacle: Congress.
Parents, nutrition advocates and physicians want Congress to overhaul the farm bill to put better food on children’s cafeteria trays. Last week, the drive to rewrite that bill stalled in the Senate, possibly delaying it until next year. But advocates said the setback would give them time to argue that the bill is to blame for much of the unhealthful food in schools.
“Farm bills always favor the status quo when they’re rushed,” said Ken Cook , president of the Environmental Working Group. “This gives us some time to educate people.”
For decades, farm bill battles have been waged over subsidies. But this year, nutrition also has been at the forefront of the debate. The $288 billion Senate bill would spend more on fruits and vegetables, but children’s health advocates say it still tilts much more toward subsidizing farmers than promoting healthful food.
Cooper and other critics point to the system of subsidies for commodity crops, such as corn and soy, which are converted inexpensively into sweeteners and fats for processed foods. The subsidies, they say, make fast food less expensive than fresh fruit and vegetables. The government also buys much of the excess crops, which are then turned into foods such as cheese, pizzas and corn dogs and sent to schools for lunches.
