When Zimbabwe slipped into political and economic turmoil, Africa lost a premier safari itinerary. Today, four countries — South Africa, Botswana, Kenya and Tanzania — lead the list of safari destinations for Americans. But other countries are aiming for a spot on that list.
Well-known to European travelers, Namibia sprinted into America’s spotlight in 2006 when Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie headed to the country for childbirth. But although you will see stars — the awesome night skies are resplendent with them — Namibia is not for the starry-eyed. Most of the country is wild and arid, not savanna or forest.
Game viewing is excellent at the Etosha Pan, a 6,500-square-mile dry lake that is big enough to be seen from space. The bone-dry perimeter of the pan reveals a procession of animals in a daily quest for water. Other areas to explore include Damaraland, a barely inhabited region where rainfall is rare and desert elephants have adapted to the harsh conditions. At Sossusvlei, 1,000-foot-high red sand dunes are the location for memorable balloon rides and awesome sunsets. And spectacular Fish River Canyon is said to be second in size only to the Grand Canyon.
A top safari destination in the 1950s and ’60s, Uganda became inextricably linked to the tragic reign of Idi Amin in the ’70s; in 1999 a group of eight tourists was killed by rebels from neighboring Rwanda. A recent cease-fire with LRA rebels appears to be taking hold, and Uganda’s moment for tourism may have arrived.
Described as “the pearl of Africa” by Winston Churchill, Uganda is still decidedly Third World. But the scenery is unparalleled — from the thunder of Murchison Falls, where the mighty Nile is forced through a channel just 20 feet wide, to the misty Rwenzori Mountains, the continent’s tallest mountain range.
While the animal concentration is not as dense as in Kenya and Tanzania, Uganda’s checklist is as long as any other African country’s, topped by the mountain gorilla. Of 700 mountain gorillas, half live in Uganda (the others in Rwanda and Congo; none exist in captivity). Uganda is also a top spot for chimpanzees, and the bird list for Queen Elizabeth National Park runs more than 550 species. Lions, leopards, elephants, crocodiles and a wealth of hippos commonly are seen.
The country that directly has benefited from the instability in Zimbabwe is neighboring Zambia, partly because the two countries share a top attraction: Victoria Falls. Zambia is vast — about the size of Texas — and for many it recalls the “authentic” Africa. Road and air infrastructure has steadily improved in the past few years and widespread poaching and pervasive corruption are diminishing.
Of Zambia’s 19 national parks, South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi contain some of Africa’s most profuse concentrations of game, plus they offer bird-watching and fishing. In addition to do-it-yourself camps there are both moderately priced and luxury lodges.
And there’s no shortage of accommodations at all levels in Livingstone, on the Zambia side of Victoria Falls. The town manages to offer virtually everything one expects from an African safari, plus microlight flights over the falls and rafting on the Zambezi, widely considered one of the most exciting white-water journeys in the world.
Four other countries merit mention. Malawi does not have large concentrations of game but the small country has charm and offers less-expensive safari options than its more famous neighbors; hippos, elephants and crocodiles are common and Lake Malawi is a freshwater dive destination. The dollar also goes far in Mozambique, but most game was decimated during decades of war (democracy arrived in 1994). But plans are in the works to reintroduce species at Gorongosa National Park. Until then you’ll find small beach resorts and diving along the 2,000-mile coastline and a spirited blend of European and African cultures in the Portuguese- speaking capital, Maputo.
Like neighboring Uganda, Rwanda is home to mountain gorillas, while other primate species are abundant in Nyungwe Forest; the country is undergoing an economic revival following the 1994 genocide. In 2002, Gabon’s president established national parks covering 11 percent of the French-speaking country. The sweeping gesture introduced the safari option to West Africa, and adventurous visitors are likely to encounter lowland gorillas, mandrill monkeys, buffaloes, hippos and large herds of elephants.
