With a sunny, southern exposure, Jaws is one of the more popular ice climbs in Rocky Mountain National Park. On a recent weekend we encountered at least six climbing parties there (not all climbing at the same time).
This is definitely one of those climbs that is best tackled during the week. Additionally, the ice is best climbed on a cold, cloudy day or early in the day, since the climb has a reputation for becoming dangerous (not to mention very wet) on warm, sunny days. You definitely don’t want to be around when one of those large, free-standing pillars falls down. Of course most climbers would rather be on soft, plastic ice than on hard, brittle ice, but I would suggest erring on the side of caution. There is often a window when the ice has softened up just enough to be fun but hasn’t been weakened by several hours of sun. I’ve also seen ice pillars fall when a cold snap follows a warm spell, so check out conditions before tackling this one.
Catch the ice in good shape, and you’ll enjoy some excellent climbing.
The Approach
From the winter parking area walk for 0.6 mile along the snow-packed road toward the Fern Lake Trailhead. Continue west on the trail as it wanders along the north side of the Big Thompson River. After walking for a total of 1.7 miles you’ll see the ice above the trail to your right. It’s hard to miss as it cascades down over a rock band.
Leave the trail and head north up the loose, snow-covered talus slope on what will probably be a well-trodden track, aiming for the base of the ice.
The Climbs
Several distinct lines offer themselves, ranging from WI4 to WI5 (and possibly harder mixed lines, depending on conditions). The ice is wide enough to accommodate three parties as long as everyone plays nice — just be considerate of others when choosing your route. We climbed the pillar just left of the “mouth” and found it to be in WI4+ shape. The line at the left edge of the ice is somewhat easier while the pillar to the right was more difficult. A line on the far right margin was not well formed the day that we were there.
At the top of the climb head for the rappel anchors at the tree on the left side above the ice (this may require a few moves of mixed climbing) or build an anchor on the ice.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Snow Climbs: A Guide for All Seasons.”
The Details
Getting to the trailhead: From Estes Park, take U.S. 36 and follow signs to Rocky Mountain National Park. Shortly after passing the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station turn left onto the road signed to Bear Lake. Drive 1.3 miles on the Bear Lake Road to the junction signed to the Moraine Park Campground. Turn right (west) at this junction and follow the signs toward the Fern Lake Trailhead for 2 miles to the winter road closure, 0.6 mile before the summer trailhead.
Gear: A standard ice rack is sufficient. In thin conditions, some rock protection might be useful. Two 60-meter ropes are necessary to rappel the climb. Either use existing anchors off a tree or use V-threads. Remember to check slings that other parties have left. A good rule of thumb is to remove the rattiest-looking sling and replace with your own, known-good, material.
Difficulty: A relatively short approach (you gain 460 feet in 1.9 miles one way), mostly on trail, to a 200-foot ice flow offering climbing in the range WI4 to WI5.
Resources: A good source for information on current climbing conditions in Rocky Mountain National Park is the conditions page on Eli Helmuth’s website: -rmnp-conditions.
USGS Map: McHenrys Peak, CO; Longs Peak, CO.
Remember, climbing is an inherently dangerous activity, and you should always climb within your ability after carefully judging the safety of the route. We write about it, you take all the risks.
