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Negra Modelo Dark Beer, $6.99 a six-pack

Denver is, interestingly enough, really big on Cinco de Mayo (“May Fifth”) — likely because we love a good party, since Cinco really isn’t that big a deal in Mexico.

With the holiday just a few days away, veer away from margaritas (hang with me now) and those skunky beers in clear bottles that seem to require the insertion of a lime wedge (you know who you are).

Negra Modelo is a medium-amber pour with the appearance of an ale, but it’s actually classed as a Vienna lager, having been first brewed by Austrian immigrants to Mexico in the early 20th century. A malty beer with lots of caramel but not a lot of complexity, still far better than most Mexican beers, its real strength is when complementing the spiciness and heaviness of Mexican food.

Negra Modelo is a major brewer (Grupo Modelo also puts out Corona and Pacifico) and so is widely available. Alcohol by volume is variously reported from 5.4 percent to 6 percent.

Grupo Modelo SA de CV, Mexico City,

Marcus Chamberland;

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