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From “Back to the Table: The Reunion of Food and Family,” by Art Smith. Makes 6-8 servings.

Ingredients

1      pound penne or elbow macaroni

4      tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter

1/3   cup all-purpose flour

4      cups milk, warmed

2      cups grated extra sharp cheddar cheese

2      cups finely chopped American cheese

       Salt and fresh ground black pepper

       Hot pepper sauce

1/4   cup freshly grated parmesan cheese

Directions

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil over high heat. Add macaroni and cook until al dente. Drain well.

Position a rack in center of oven and preheat oven to 350. Butter a deep 4-quart casserole.

Melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour. Gradually whisk in milk. Bring to a simmer, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens. Reduce heat to low and simmer 5 minutes.

Remove from heat and stir in 1 cup of the cheddar cheese. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot sauce.

Combine remaining cheddar and American cheeses. Spread one-third of the macaroni over bottom of casserole. Top with half of the shredded cheese and a third of the sauce. Finish with remaining macaroni and sauce. Sprinkle parmesan cheese over the top. Bake until bubbly and golden brown around the edges, about 30 minutes.

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